Fabtech crawler suspension rebuild

[JerryC]

Long time forum lurker here, I posted this on Facebook hoping to get some opinions or suggestions for my ailing Fabtech suspension.
Im Looking for help/ information with a Fabtech Suspension installed on a 2006 TJ. I bought this Jeep last year without really looking into the Suspension too much because when I drove it everything felt fine (other than a pretty interesting body roll when turning) I used to wheel a pretty lifted Samurai, so I wasn't too concerned with it. But now that I've had it a while and I've wheeled it a few times, I need to do some work on it. I also thought since the lift was a Fabtech lift I was in good hands if I contacted them with questions (complete waste of time).

I am hoping somebody out there has dealt with this lift, I think its the Fabtech 6" TJ Crawler lift which I have found basically nothing on other than the install manual and the it doesn't really specify a whole lot in regards to Coilover shock size, Rear Shock size and Rear Coil length. (I gave Fabtech every Part number I could find and they couldn't verify anything either, so they basically stopped emailing me).

I need to rebuild the Front Coilover shocks (leaking badly) and I would like to get a better set of Coils for the rear and possibly new shocks. I'm not looking to dump a bunch of money into it right now because I am going to eventually move the rear axle back and hopefully go with coilovers in the rear. I live in Northern Nevada and the Jeep isn't a daily driver, it is basically a trail only vehicle other than driving on the highway to the trail, so I'm not looking to fully rock buggy the vehicle out. Any suggestions or information on this lift would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

[macleanflood]

Might want to call Accutune tomorrow and see if they can rebuild the coilovers.

-Mac

 

[Wildman]

You might have to buy all new front coilovers if the Fabtech ones aren't rebuildable... You could try contacting AccuTune and see if they've ever worked on the Fabtech stuff...

For the rear you're going to want to lose the wishbone upper... Honestly you're going to want to go with something like the Savvy midarm since it looks like your stock mounts have been cut ff.

Not sure if anyone about what coil springs to suggest...

 

[JerryC]

You might have to buy all new front coilovers if the Fabtech ones aren't rebuildable... You could try contacting AccuTune and see if they've ever worked on the Fabtech stuff...

For the rear you're going to want to lose the wishbone upper... Honestly you're going to want to go with something like the Savvy midarm since it looks like your stock mounts have been cut ff.

Not sure if anyone about what coil springs to suggest...

Thats what I was thinking. I havent looked at Savvy, ill see what they have. Thank you.

 

[bbaldwin237]

I've never seen a bolt on "truss." That's an interesting design.

 

[Rubeyu]

Call Phil at Liberty Mountain Fab out of Gardnerville. They call him Shock Jesus
for a reason

 

[Rickyd]

What do you mean by "better" rear springs? Free length and length at ride height can help you if you need to replace them.

Shock wise you can pull them out and measure extended and compressed lengths and go from there. Taking into consideration wether or not they are bottoming out and limiting up travel or still have shaft showing while you are on the bumps. Lift companies almost never get the shock and bumps set up correctly.

If you are chasing travel you probably need outboarded shocks to make room for longer ones. The back of tj's are limited in travel since there isn't room for long travel parts in the stock mounts.

 

[JerryC]

What do you mean by "better" rear springs? Free length and length at ride height can help you if you need to replace them.

Shock wise you can pull them out and measure extended and compressed lengths and go from there. Taking into consideration wether or not they are bottoming out and limiting up travel or still have shaft showing while you are on the bumps. Lift companies almost never get the shock and bumps set up correctly.

If you are chasing travel you probably need outboarded shocks to make room for longer ones. The back of tj's are limited in travel since there isn't room for long travel parts in the stock mounts.

What do you mean by "better" rear springs? Free length and length at ride height can help you if you need to replace them.
- Yeah "better" was the wrong word for what I was trying to get at. I guess I can't really tell if the problem is the actual spring being too light or if the shock isn't doing it's job? The body roll is like riding one of those mythical creatures with a spring attached to the bottom of it on a kids play ground. When wheeling up an incline that has any sort of turn at the top really causes the body to roll and it doesn't feel right, where other lifted Vehicles on the same obstacle look way different. It may be too much weight in the rear? But I've wheeled other vehicles with quite a bit more weight in the rear and they never handled like this is handling. I'm trying to lighten the load in the rear by getting rid of the heavy bumper and going with something that lowers the tire a bit.
My point being, should I try a stiffer spring setup or should I pull the shocks and check them? I guess this is the downside of buying a vehicle with a lift kit that isn't made any longer. This may explain why a 4 link long arm setup may be a better setup than the "wishbone" contraption Fabtech used that no other lift company adopted.

 

[Rickyd]

What do you mean by "better" rear springs? Free length and length at ride height can help you if you need to replace them.
- Yeah "better" was the wrong word for what I was trying to get at. I guess I can't really tell if the problem is the actual spring being too light or if the shock isn't doing it's job? The body roll is like riding one of those mythical creatures with a spring attached to the bottom of it on a kids play ground. When wheeling up an incline that has any sort of turn at the top really causes the body to roll and it doesn't feel right, where other lifted Vehicles on the same obstacle look way different. It may be too much weight in the rear? But I've wheeled other vehicles with quite a bit more weight in the rear and they never handled like this is handling. I'm trying to lighten the load in the rear by getting rid of the heavy bumper and going with something that lowers the tire a bit.
My point being, should I try a stiffer spring setup or should I pull the shocks and check them? I guess this is the downside of buying a vehicle with a lift kit that isn't made any longer. This may explain why a 4 link long arm setup may be a better setup than the "wishbone" contraption Fabtech used that no other lift company adopted.

I would be looking at shock function and suspension design before chasing coil rates. As well as making sure sway bar bushings and links are tight.

There's an old bastard here named mrblaine who has designed race winning suspensions and has a few cheerleaders that parrot his tidbits of wisdom. If you can deal with them they'll get you sorted out

 

[macleanflood]

Lite Brite brought him in to tune their Ultra 4 race car if you want a video.

-Mac

 

[Weasellee]

Lite Brite brought him in to tune their Ultra 4 race car if you want a video.

-Mac

Yes please

 

[macleanflood]

View: https://youtu.be/9WfQ-ZMPSHE?si=WHSTCzzOI0pKfkKe