Factory rear axle shock locations with a stretch

[sierradmax]

Let's start the flame throwers..

I'm not opposed to a frame chop and lengthening the frame to achieve rear stretch. I've done 2 this way and 1 the other way using the barnes4wd coil stretch bracket. I think the proper way to do it is to lengthen the frame, from a functional and visual perspective.

My recent build, in the build thread, will soon undergo a rear stretch and install a 35-spline JK Dana 44. I plan on doing the frame chop and butt-crack elimination, again (thanks for the visual @Wildman ). I'm curious if anyone has done this and retained factory shock mounting locations, at the frame, and not gone with outboard. I have a set of skyjacker 11.3" travel rear shocks that have bar-pin style mounting. The idea is to cut and raise the mounting location, at the frame, to clear the tub with a 1.25" body lift and/or clearance the tub in order to maximize up-travel. I plan on using a fuel cell in the cab. I'm not opposed to outboarding shocks, just trying to keep a minimalist approach, with similar outcome, on a budget.

 

[macleanflood]

Take a look at @Woodrow 's build thread...

Thread 'Woodrow's 97 Green TJ Moderate Build'

Jun 4, 2021

Edit:
After some time on this forum, I added this pre-amble and index which is updated as my goals evolve and the build progresses.

This build began based on 33s with short arms while maintaining what I feel is the essence of the stock TJ. I think many approach a TJ build in a similar way, at least to begin with. The reality is 33s done right is a body lift away from 35s and that day is now fast approaching here . The rig gets driven most days so decent road manners, good drivetrain performance and light weight are priorities. But, as I do more off roading, optimizing travel...

• Woodrow
• Replies: 1,323
• Forum: TJ Build Threads & Member's Rides

• 

-Mac

 

[Woodrow]

IDK why I'm referenced here. I did just start a stretch project but its my first and I don't know squat. But I'm learning. My goals are: 6" rear and 2" front for 101" WB with mid-arms and 12" coilovers on 35s with a tank in stock (-ish) location and stock width axles.

Your project will be helped by wider axles and the fuel cell. As far as 11.3" shocks in the stock location (albeit moved back and up with the stretch and frame tuck you are planning), I guess it depends among other things, on the ride height you are going for and the compressed and extended lengths of the shocks.

 

[gasiorv]

To answer your question - I have not stretched while maintaining the stock shock locations.

Having said that I can't see why you could not do it physically, you are pushing everything back together so that cross-member where the shocks bolt will move the same and no tank means the cross member should be able to remain. Years ago I moved that cross member up 1.25" in order to be able to push my tank up further and even when moved up 1.25" my upper control arm brackets (which were on a truss above the center section) would contact the front side of that cross member and I had to trim it to allow for clearance (but that has no affect on the shock mount locations). Again, with no tank there is no need to remove that cross-member, and I don't see why you couldn't just leave the shocks at the same location with everything pushed back together. There are negatives to keeping the shocks at the stock locations, but I know you are aware of all those and have already considered them vs the time and expense of outboarding.

 

[mrblaine]

Let's start the flame throwers..

I'm not opposed to a frame chop and lengthening the frame to achieve rear stretch. I've done 2 this way and 1 the other way using the barnes4wd coil stretch bracket. I think the proper way to do it is to lengthen the frame, from a functional and visual perspective.

My recent build, in the build thread, will soon undergo a rear stretch and install a 35-spline JK Dana 44. I plan on doing the frame chop and butt-crack elimination, again (thanks for the visual @Wildman ). I'm curious if anyone has done this and retained factory shock mounting locations, at the frame, and not gone with outboard. I have a set of skyjacker 11.3" travel rear shocks that have bar-pin style mounting. The idea is to cut and raise the mounting location, at the frame, to clear the tub with a 1.25" body lift and/or clearance the tub in order to maximize up-travel. I plan on using a fuel cell in the cab. I'm not opposed to outboarding shocks, just trying to keep a minimalist approach, with similar outcome, on a budget.

Or put another way, I'm going to do it half assed for reasons no one but myself can fathom.

 

[sierradmax]

Why do you say it's "half-assed"? If it works, it works.. saves me the time outboarding. If it doesn't, then lessons learned. Yes, I know you can get a 12"-14" shock and counteract increased body roll but there's not always a right and wrong way to do things until proven.

 

[mrblaine]

Why do you say it's "half-assed"? If it works, it works.. saves me the time outboarding. If it doesn't, then lessons learned. Yes, I know you can get a 12"-14" shock and counteract increased body roll but there's not always a right and wrong way to do things until proven.

It wasn't a dig. We may not have the same build philosophy, but you've never struck me as lazy or unmotivated. I'll bow out now since that last part says I should have just kept my mouth shut.