Front Track Bar Clearance

Good question. Could the whole issue be fixed more easily with a better track bar shape? (maybe the currie/rock jock bar?)

Ding ding ding we have a winner. Sometimes there's no need to pole vault over mouse turds. Leave the nodes in the same spot, bend the track bar to clear, and beef if up if the bends lead to insufficient stiffness. Leaving both nodes in the same spot leaves the factory steering geometry alone. The geometry doesn't care about the shape of the bar, as long as it is stiff enough.

The currie correctlync system is one such example of a different shape with same frame and axle side nodes.
 
I'll avoid ranting too much because I have to get back to work but to call something a hunk of junk because it has a slight clearance interference is a bit extreme. By that measurement my Dana 60 is also a hunk of junk......

As to lifting or not: everything is a trade off. If you're willing to relocate fenders and cut tub you can situate yourself at middle of shock travel without massive changes to suspension geometry. It's more work, but the result is still a fine jeep. Lift too much and you have to play games with frame side suspension mounts to keep AS/AD numbers in check, not to mention the control arm angle challenges. Keeping a jeep low and tummytucking is not inherently wrong, it's a different approach. Pros and cons depend largely on where you live and wheel and what type of terrain. Let's not totally steer the guy off course when he asked about a simple clearance issue. There's more than one way to build a great TJ suspension.
 
And then your axle is off center
(Ding ding ding?)

Let's run the math on how much off center it is if he bends a 2degree clearance in. How accurate is your alignment tape measure? Also what happens when you lift a jeep with stock track bar? And by the way, how much does the axle move side to side at full droop vs full compression? Optimized to be low, but never zero.

But you're right, if you really wanted to be perfect on the track bar you would build a new one with the clearance built in and the correct node to node length. (Or adjustable heims)
 
Let's run the math on how much off center it is if he bends a 2degree clearance in. How accurate is your alignment tape measure?

But you're right, if you really wanted to be perfect on the track bar you would build a new one with the clearance built in and the correct node to node length.

All for an OX locker...
 
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All for an OX locker...

As someone who has run Eaton, ARB, Detroit, and Ox, they all have pros and cons. I try not to get into holier-than-thou pissing contests about why one locker is better than the other.

BTW: until ARB figures out that removing a carrier to replace a wear item x-ring is not a fantastic plan, they aren't perfect either.

Trade offs abound. You consider your options, spend your money, and deal with the pros and cons as you get to them. Let's not bash fine companies who choose different trade-offs than your personal preferences.
 
Adjustable track bar plus bending is the only answer without compromise. With a well shaped track bar you probably won’t even need to bend it. Bending the stock bar up is going to pull the axle off center. We don’t know how much it is hitting, but depending on that it could pull the axle off center by more than you think…
 
As someone who has run Eaton, ARB, Detroit, and Ox, they all have pros and cons. I try not to get into holier-than-thou pissing contests about why one locker is better than the other.

BTW: until ARB figures out that removing a carrier to replace a wear item x-ring is not a fantastic plan, they aren't perfect either.

Trade offs abound. You consider your options, spend your money, and deal with the pros and cons as you get to them. Let's not bash fine companies who choose different trade-offs than your personal preferences.

This isn't about the locker but rather the poor route he is taking to get a stock track bar to fit a bulkier diff cover.
 
This isn't about the locker but rather the poor route he is taking to get a stock track bar to fit a bulkier diff cover.

Agree with you completely. I was responding to the comments bashing OX unnecessarily. My point was let's solve the issue this guy presented rather than telling him he bought a crappy locker while ignoring his question.

To clear a diff cover, an adjustable track bar that is shaped to clear is a good solution with minimal side effects. A good opportunity to move to a beefier bar with fresh ends is not a bad thing either.
 
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This isn't about the locker but rather the poor route he is taking to get a stock track bar to fit a bulkier diff cover.

So, at the end of the day, it looks like there are a few things I could do that would make the most sense.

Adjustable track bar plus bending is the only answer without compromise. With a well shaped track bar you probably won’t even need to bend it. Bending the stock bar up is going to pull the axle off center. We don’t know how much it is hitting, but depending on that it could pull the axle off center by more than you think…

1. Buy an adjustable trackbar and make it fit as suggested. Probably best option, maybe more expensive, but would be "proper", I agree.

2. Bend this trackbar and see how it goes. Check alignment. Flex test with a gooseneck ramp. I don't think it will need much.

3. If 2 doesnt work out, modify the track bar. It's just a big steel rod, and they invented welders for a reason.

Anything more than that seems like an unreasonable amount of work for a clearance problem. And I have no interest in switching lockers, OX makes a plenty fine locker.
 
As someone who has run Eaton, ARB, Detroit, and Ox, they all have pros and cons. I try not to get into holier-than-thou pissing contests about why one locker is better than the other.

BTW: until ARB figures out that removing a carrier to replace a wear item x-ring is not a fantastic plan, they aren't perfect either.

Trade offs abound. You consider your options, spend your money, and deal with the pros and cons as you get to them. Let's not bash fine companies who choose different trade-offs than your personal preferences.

Some of us appreciate mods that fit well and prefer to put our efforts into actual improvements. OX solves a non-proplem by creating problems like this.
 
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Agree with you completely. I was responding to the comments bashing OX unnecessarily. My point was let's solve the issue this guy presented rather than telling him he bought a crappy locker while ignoring his question.

To clear a diff cover, an adjustable track bar that is shaped to clear is a good solution with minimal side effects. A good opportunity to move to a beefier bar with fresh ends is not a bad thing either.

He bought a crappy locker and combined with a questionable build plan, now gets to figure out how to make it fit together. It didn't need to be this way.
 
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2. Bend this trackbar and see how it goes. Check alignment. Flex test with a gooseneck ramp. I don't think it will need much.
..

Flex test on a goose ramp is a waste of effort. You need to remove the springs and cycle the axle with a floor jack. When you do that, you will see clearly how intrusive the diff cover is. You will also get to see why 33s without a lift isn't a good idea.
 
Flex test on a goose ramp is a waste of effort. You need to remove the springs and cycle the axle with a floor jack. When you do that, you will see clearly how intrusive the diff cover is. You will also get to see why 33s without a lift isn't a good idea.

Next time I'm wheeling without springs, I will keep this in mind.

He bought a crappy locker and combined with a questionable build plan, now gets to figure out how to make it fit together. It didn't need to be this way.

Find me another locker that doesn't rely on a dedicated air system (way more stuff to break), I don't need to cut up my interior for (manual shift cables), and is reliable (looking at you E-locker). I'll wait.

You go play with your toys. I'll go play with mine.
 
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So, at the end of the day, it looks like there are a few things I could do that would make the most sense.



1. Buy an adjustable trackbar and make it fit as suggested. Probably best option, maybe more expensive, but would be "proper", I agree.

2. Bend this trackbar and see how it goes. Check alignment. Flex test with a gooseneck ramp. I don't think it will need much.

3. If 2 doesnt work out, modify the track bar. It's just a big steel rod, and they invented welders for a reason.

Anything more than that seems like an unreasonable amount of work for a clearance problem. And I have no interest in switching lockers, OX makes a plenty fine locker.

Doing shit twice sucks. A couple hundo is worth not spending time to bend the stock bar only to have an off center axle.
 
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Next time I'm wheeling without springs, I will keep this in mind.


....
That would be silly. Keep the floor jack in the garage and put the frame on jack stands like a normal person.

....



Find me another locker that doesn't rely on a dedicated air system (way more stuff to break), I don't need to cut up my interior for (manual shift cables), and is reliable (looking at you E-locker). I'll wait.

You go play with your toys. I'll go play with mine.

You're still solving non-existant problems.
 
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The track bar in your pic isn't stock, btw.

Allow me to elaborate:

The track bar that was on it when I bought it. The rest of the jeep was 100% stock except for the 33" KM2s, so I'm assuming it is the OEM track bar.

Not sure why the PO would change nothing except the track bar with a bone stock front end.
 
Allow me to elaborate:

The track bar that was on it when I bought it. The rest of the jeep was 100% stock except for the 33" KM2s, so I'm assuming it is the OEM track bar.

Not sure why the PO would change nothing except the track bar with a bone stock front end.

People do weird things that don't make sense.