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Highline or Lift?

Alex01

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With 35s, 4 inch currie springs, and metal cloak highline fenders I can run roughly 1.25 inch bump before I can't turn the wheels. (tires hit the rear of the fender not the top) In order to get the most out of it though you would need to relocate the upper mounts or else you'll be in my boat and need to run smaller compressed length shocks until you can extend the mounts.
 
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jjvw

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Ok, so for my setup in my signature, what are MC’s going to do for me if I went to 35’s? Will they clear?
The bump stops will be what they need to be. The lift height is the amount needed to recover the lost up travel from the bump stop requirements. MC fenders will play a role in what those numbers end up being.

Alex01 has a good example of 35s setup to fit under MC fenders. (Oh, hi there!)
 

JMT

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The bump stops will be what they need to be. The lift height is the amount needed to recover the lost up travel from the bump stop requirements. MC fenders will play a role in what those numbers end up being.

Alex01 has a good example of 35s setup to fit under MC fenders. (Oh, hi there!)
Too expensive to just try it...
 
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Alex01

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Ok, so for my setup in my signature, what are MC’s going to do for me if I went to 35’s? Will they clear?
I currently have my springs out awaiting different shocks. If you give me some measurements I can lower mine to your height and cycle the suspension....
 

jjvw

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I currently have my springs out awaiting different shocks. If you give me some measurements I can lower mine to your height and cycle the suspension....
You can probably do the math on your existing shock travels for the difference in ride height. That should be close.
 
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JMT

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I currently have my springs out awaiting different shocks. If you give me some measurements I can lower mine to your height and cycle the suspension....
What do you want?

3” front
2.5” rear
About 5” of uptravel for each
2” bumpstop front and rear
1.25” body lift
 

Daz7

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What you can get away with is going to be dependant on Rim Width and offset along with your overall diameters.

I had 265/70x17 KM2's (31.7" diameter) with a 2.5" OME lift (no bump stop extensions) I'd bend the top of the front guard lip when disconnected.

Going up to a 285/70x17 KM3 (32.8") I now can't disconnect the front sway bar with the same lift as they'll just go up into the top of the guard. That said, they work ok for daily duties, forest roads and harder stuff with the sway bar connected.

Currently deciding what lift to go with, I'd suggest I'd get away with 3.5" lift.
 

89grand

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I don't like the look of high line fenders at all, on top of any other benefit, at least a suspension lift can be relatively easily removed and the Jeep returned to stock, if one ever wanted to.
 

Farmergreg

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I helped install a set of MC fenders....they are a half assed attempt at best. Especially the inner fender workings and mounting of your OEM stuff, cruise control, windshield washer reservoir, etc. . I guess I'm a purist and wouldn't put MC's on my rig.

Mine's on 33's with 3" spring and 1.25 body lift.
94071
 
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liquidfluidity

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My avatar - 33s, 2.5" OME Lj/ZJ springs, 1" body lift. I was using Skyjacker Hydros but decided to try stock JKU shocks. The JK shocks are nice but have a bit more body roll than I'd like so I may give the Hydros another shot as I think that they were just getting broke in.... In the end I will go Fox or Ranchos
 

tworley

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My vote would be a 3" suspension with a 1.25 body lift. If, in the future, you want more uptravel, then look towards highlines
 

Alex01

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I helped install a set of MC fenders....they are a half assed attempt at best. Especially the inner fender workings and mounting of your OEM stuff, cruise control, windshield washer reservoir, etc. . I guess I'm a purist and wouldn't put MC's on my rig.
To each there own. I like the looks of a built TJ with high-lines, a cage, big tires, and lots of armor. I disagree about your statement that MC fenders are "half assed" they are exceptionally well built. Are there better options out there that get better clearance. Yes, but MC offers a fender that does gain clearance and is also easy enough for a hobbyist to install.
 

billiebob

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I don't want to do much permanent cutting to my 05 TJUR. So unless I can get a bolt on fender kit I'll likely do a 3~4" lift, But I will hear "I can't get in this thing" a lot!
See looks a little anemic right now.

View attachment 94031
The spot you need extra clearance at is the bottom of the fender opening. Unless you cut/move that point back 3" you will need a full lift.

Here is the AEV fender, note the triangle cut out.

DSC_0016.jpeg


More than a higher hood line, you need clearance at full lock when stuffed.

My TJR is completely stock. No lift. Just the AEV HighLine. I never rub with 33s on the stock steel Wrangler 15x7 rims.

DSC_0043.jpeg
 
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bobthetj03

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What about your gearing? What gears do you have currently? How about brakes. Will your stock brakes be up to the task of stopping 33's? A 8" wide wheel with a 33x1050x15 tire would aid in roll mass weight, be easier on the rig, and would flat tow better. Rubi flares are 1" wider, and still retain the factory look without looking like Dumbo ears.
 

Kevin Bright

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Please read because I was in your shoes. I wanted 33's and didn't know what to do. I didn't want to deal with a sye and pinon angles when I knew nothing about building my jeep. I picked and ran and still run the Ultimate 2.5 OME lift, 1.25 JKS body lift. That was an absolute fantastic lift for my jeep with 33's (first picture). and the DIY highline Kit that moved the fender up 3 inches was only added because I went to a bigger tire and did not want to change lifts or go any higher. When you add up my various lifting styles, its roughly 6.75 inches and I run 37's. I have had no problems with playing in the rocks. I am considering going to 3 inch shock to allow more down travel but I would not have been able to run my 37's without the highline.

The Ultimate OME 2.5 Lift was fantastic for me with my 33's and I highly recommend it. DPG off road is fantasic and I highly recommend the extended travel shocks.

The highline took me a whole weekend. Friday after work til Sunday around 6pm. Be prepared, it really isn't that hard to do. The battery does not need to be relocated but you will have to modify the fender brackets that attach to the firewall. You will have to rotate the evap system to make it fit under the hood (unbolt, rotate the brackets, cut one section off with a cut off wheel, and then rebolt to the fender using extisting bolt holes.
The biggest issue was the windshield washer bottle. I had to make a new bottle but that consist of just drilling a new hole into an empty bottle and moving the pump over.

This is the ultimate 2.5 OME spring and body lift with 33's. Perfect LCOG lift in my opinon IMG-0199.JPG

This is the Spring lift, body lift and highline with 33's. IMG-3339.JPG

This is the spring lift, body lift and highline with 37's IMG-0022.JPG
After everything I still have the 4 inches of uptravel from stock. I used the formula of how ever big you increase your tire size, you need to move your fenders that far away. 31's to 37's was 6 inches. I moved the fender up 6.75 by using various lifting styles. I haven't had any complains a year later and countless trail miles.
IMG-0027.JPGIMG-0068.JPGIMG-3370.JPG
In my opinion I love the LCOG. For me it works and suits my style of wheeling better and I feel much more in control of my jeep. But to each their own. I would recommend doing the high line kit only if you are going with a smaller spring lift and bigger tires.
Technically you could get away with running the high line kit only and moving your fenders up 3 inches but you wont be raising your gas tank, bumpers, t-case skid, or body mounts up that would be better for off road (if you choose to do that). If you are going to stay on the street, a high line kit is a feasible option. I wouldn't recommend it but it could be used as a replacement for a lift if you never decide to go off road.

As for the bushings, I would get new arms personally. And if you are replacing springs, you might as well do a lift kit because you will be doing half the work already. You would be working twice as hard and long to do a highline kit and swapping out springs and arms/bushings.
 
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jjvw

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At the risk of getting nitpicky (again), does anyone know what LCoG really means for a Jeep build? I don't. Except that an overarching desire for the idea of LCoG brings with it the very real risk for compromises that can overshadow other important considerations than where the center of gravity happens to be.

This is a reason why paying attention that factory 4" of up travel is meaningful. It focuses one's thinking into an area of objectivity. The rest of the build will fall into place depending on what you want to do with that measurement.
 

toximus

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This is a reason why paying attention that factory 4" of up travel is meaningful. It focuses one's thinking into an area of objectivity. The rest of the build will fall into place depending on what you want to do with that measurement.
I'd argue that more than 4" is beneficial. Even driving on a paved street I'm using more than 4.
 
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