Xposure
TJ Enthusiast
With the stock configuration have you ever known trans temps to get hot enough that it make the coolant temps increase? (Since they share the radiator)
How to install a Derale 20561 transmission cooler on your Wrangler TJ
- Thread starter Jerry Bransford
- Start date
I don't want to chance overheating my transmission since i plan to pull a utility trailer and go crawling with it.
I figured i would connect up the cooler, add a quart, run it a bit then go ahead and change the fluid, change the filter, and clean the pan. While changing the filter/cleaning the pan I was thinking of installing a pan with a drain plug. Is that wise? It would make for a little less mess the next time fluid needs to be changed but it does provide another avenue for a leak.
I figured i would connect up the cooler, add a quart, run it a bit then go ahead and change the fluid, change the filter, and clean the pan. While changing the filter/cleaning the pan I was thinking of installing a pan with a drain plug. Is that wise? It would make for a little less mess the next time fluid needs to be changed but it does provide another avenue for a leak.
b0xcar
TJ Enthusiast
Can any of you that have this cooler installed take a picture of the power source you used. I'd like to get power from under the hood fuse box. Just want to make sure I get this right. Thx
I came through the grommet next to the steering column. I found a fused that turns off with the ignition and used a fuse tap on the fuse panel behind the glove box.
What specifically would you want a pic of
What specifically would you want a pic of
b0xcar
TJ Enthusiast
Super simple. Used this to piggy back off an existing fuse. Might have been #6 but it's dark now.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0742BZXC2/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0742BZXC2/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Ok, braved the brutal CA night (it 65 degrees out there) to check my '04 TJ fuse box. I chose #28, the injector fuse as it was already rated at 20 amps and easy to place in the box.
I bought the same ones as well, I plan to use them with my install.
b0xcar
TJ Enthusiast
I ended up using fuse #6 after thinking I could possibly tap into the #17 slot. Installing power was pretty simple. I just wanted to make sure I chose the right fuse slot. My initial testing of witch fuse slot to use wasn't working for me. (I'm too green for electrical work) I only used a 10a fuse for the derale cooler. It calls for a 20a but I think the cooler only draws 5a-6a. So hopefully I'm good with a 10a??
Fantastic thread! Thank you @Jerry Bransford for the wonderful initial guide and thank you @TuckerH586 for the amazon link as well!
I recently bought one of these coolers and I'll be using it on my Kubota diesel swap that I'm doing to my 06 RHD TJ. I'm going to be running an AW4 automatic out of a Cherokee so I will post my results for how the installation when with that transmission soon!
Thanks
Grant
Well, finally got around to installing my cooler. I feel bad for the folks that do not have access to an auto lift. it sure did make it a bit easier to feed the lines and route them around stuff (moving and hot).
One thing to note: lay EVERYTHING out and make sure you have ALL the pieces. I was missing three nuts for the bracket. No big deal but if this is your only ride and you get elbow deep into the installation before you notice missing parts then you are kind of screwed. Don't forget your additional quart of tranny fluid.
I guess either someone replaced my transmission lines or something becuase I had to dig out a tubing cutter and go to town. My lines were no like Jerry's in that there was no way to pull them apart, so i did the next best thing: cut the metal tube on the engine side of the flexible-rubber part. I was impressed on how little fluid flowed out which gave time to push the rubber hoses over the metal tube. Connect the radiator side first as that is where the fluid is going to flow from.
Other than that it was a piece of cake. I do like their method of fastening it to the fuel lines along the frame. There was actually a couple extra of their zip ties and extra line (due to where I ended up splicing in) so I was able to route the rubber above the driver side control arm mount (rear most hole so there is no possible way of contact with the arm) then to the frame. As a bonus, I have about 6 inches of rubber line as surplus. I keep that in the glove box just in case I need to "cut" out the cooler.
I routed the wire along the hoses then up the driver side of the firewall. I have not connected the wire to power yet as I want to install a fuse/relay box on the driver side the will eventually power some LED lights as well. I figure that not connecting the fan up right now should not be that big of an issue as air still passes over the coils any way.
To answer one of the earlier underlying questions: which wire is the positive and which is the negative on the fan?. Well, I bench tested mine and Red was positive and Black was negative (as they should be).
Jerry, thanks for your writeup.
One thing to note: lay EVERYTHING out and make sure you have ALL the pieces. I was missing three nuts for the bracket. No big deal but if this is your only ride and you get elbow deep into the installation before you notice missing parts then you are kind of screwed. Don't forget your additional quart of tranny fluid.
I guess either someone replaced my transmission lines or something becuase I had to dig out a tubing cutter and go to town. My lines were no like Jerry's in that there was no way to pull them apart, so i did the next best thing: cut the metal tube on the engine side of the flexible-rubber part. I was impressed on how little fluid flowed out which gave time to push the rubber hoses over the metal tube. Connect the radiator side first as that is where the fluid is going to flow from.
Other than that it was a piece of cake. I do like their method of fastening it to the fuel lines along the frame. There was actually a couple extra of their zip ties and extra line (due to where I ended up splicing in) so I was able to route the rubber above the driver side control arm mount (rear most hole so there is no possible way of contact with the arm) then to the frame. As a bonus, I have about 6 inches of rubber line as surplus. I keep that in the glove box just in case I need to "cut" out the cooler.
I routed the wire along the hoses then up the driver side of the firewall. I have not connected the wire to power yet as I want to install a fuse/relay box on the driver side the will eventually power some LED lights as well. I figure that not connecting the fan up right now should not be that big of an issue as air still passes over the coils any way.
To answer one of the earlier underlying questions: which wire is the positive and which is the negative on the fan?. Well, I bench tested mine and Red was positive and Black was negative (as they should be).
Jerry, thanks for your writeup.
Thanks for chiming in and letting us know how it went.
Everyone with an automatic transmission should have one of these. I'm waiting to install mine next week when I put the RubiCrawler in at the same time.
How did you wire yours? Did you wire it to a 12V switched ignition source?
I have not wired mine up yet. I just routed the wire up the firewall on the driver side, then across the firewall along with the factory harness and it is tucked in between the battery and the Computer.
I am going to wire it into a switched circuit at a later date.
GySgt C
New Member
Just to let everyone know, I bought a Derale 20561 Transmission Cooer for my 2005 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited. I read through the articles concerning the product and it never said anything concerning lift kits. The mount for the transmission cooler will not fit a jeep with a long bar lift installed. I called the company and they stated that it was never tested for a long bar lift and there is no mount made now, or in the near future and was told just to send it back. I have already opened up everthing and told them so and they said they would take it back. I bought it through Amazon, I hope they honor that. Just for everyone's information.
Ashton Keiffer
Member
I currently have one of these kits headed my way and I'm excited to get it. I plan on installing it this weekend at the same time that I install a Mopar deep dish style transmission pan on my 32RH but I do have two questions that either @Chris or @Jerry Bransford might be able to help me out with. I have not done any kind of accessory wiring before and I have no idea where to tap into a constant 12V feed for the fan and I don't have any kind of aftermarket relay boxes (I think that's a thing, lol). I'm thinking a constant feed so that the fan will be able to run after I cut the engine off until the thermostat cuts it off. Question 1) Is a constant 12V powered fan a good idea? & Question 2) Where should I tap in at? I have not been able to find any solid info on how to wire the fan other than videos and threads of custom setups that aren't explained.
OP
Yes for sure you want that fan powered by a constant +12v, and there's no need for a relay. I ran a 12 or 14 gauge wire (either is fine) from my +12v source back to the fan. It is fused but there's no relay in the circuit.