Well that settles it. It’s running backwards. Thanks for the link.
How to install a Derale 20561 transmission cooler on your Wrangler TJ
- Thread starter Jerry Bransford
- Start date
I took the cooler off today to check on the leaks I was seeing from the fittings.
The o-rings were on the correct side, but both were partially cut. It seems like they are just slightly too small and want to roll up onto the threads, then were getting pinched. I ran out to autozone to try to find a replacement, but what I saw there seemed to be too thick to serve as a replacement. My attempted solution for now is to flip them around so the unbroken side is facing the cooler, and use high temp thread sealer on the threads and around the o-ring. Tomorrow I’ll test to see whether it worked.
The o-rings were on the correct side, but both were partially cut. It seems like they are just slightly too small and want to roll up onto the threads, then were getting pinched. I ran out to autozone to try to find a replacement, but what I saw there seemed to be too thick to serve as a replacement. My attempted solution for now is to flip them around so the unbroken side is facing the cooler, and use high temp thread sealer on the threads and around the o-ring. Tomorrow I’ll test to see whether it worked.
Well after one year almost to the day and 3500 Miles my Derale Transmission cooler has sprung a leak. It is leaking at the U shaped bend on the long tube. I called Derale today and informed them about the issue. They said to get with the seller "amazon" and see if i could return the item. I believe they only have a 90 day policy so i think im SOL. I could be wrong with the last statement but pretty sure that's the policy.
My question can i find a 3/8 U shaped barbed tube and hose clamp it down? or use the current one? The current fittings looked pressed on. My kit came with black u shaped tube compared with the red one in the photos.
My question can i find a 3/8 U shaped barbed tube and hose clamp it down? or use the current one? The current fittings looked pressed on. My kit came with black u shaped tube compared with the red one in the photos.
That's lame service on Derale's part!! You could just make your own U shaped fitting with a few brass elbows and barbed fittings. I would maybe use 1/2" elbows just so that it doesn't choke/restrict the flow with too tight of bends at 3/8". That would give it less resistance in the elbows for flow. At least that's what I'd do. Few bucks at the local hardware store and you're done.
Is it the tube itself on the bend that's leaking?
So I ended up putting two hose clamps right behind the crimped fittings and it seems to solve the problem. I also crimped the original fitting a little more as well. Below is a picture of the leak after I cleaned it with break clean and started it up for 1 minute. The leak was coming from the crimped hose.
jhetcel23TJ
Member
For those of you have installed this, is there still room for a small on board air tank that is typically installed in that same area? I have both installing this cooler, and on board air on my long mods list.
I don’t think it would work with my air tank that was mounted in the same spot.
I ordered a derale cooler that didn’t have the kit and mounted it rearward of the tank further up under the tub.
Mine is an LJ but my cooler is right behind the rear seat foot pocket.
I used this Derale 13950 Atomic Cool
So... yeah. Has anyone actually installed one of these on an '05/'06 with the swedged cooler lines? There's no hose clamps, so when the instructions say: "Disconnect the factory rubber transmission return hose from both ends and remove" — um.. you can't really do that.
I'm disinterested in splicing a bunch of old and new rubber lines together, and even less enthusiastic about sourcing all new hard lines. There's a solution I'm not thinking about. Ideas?
On my 06 LJ I used one of these for the outlet of the radiator
My factory lines were leaking anyway so had to be removed.
I couldn’t remove the line returning to the transmission so I dremmeled the leaky swedged line off and hose clamped to that.
the benefit of what I did is if I have a leak for some reason it would only take a short hose and a couple clamps to bypass all the aux cooler lines.
O.K. — that's a workaround for sure. But I guess I'm going to have to look at a new return line altogether. Would prefer not to be hose clamping to cut hard lines without decent barbs on them.
Is the fix you put in still holding.
I've noticed today that I am leaking in the same place. I've had mine for almost 2 years. Looking to find a long term fix. This should last alot longer than a couple years. Looking for ideas or to know if your fix has solved it.
I have similar seeping issues I am trying to clean up with. Has anyone come up with a direct fit replacement for the transmission lines with these Derale coolers? I never liked all the back and forth with the U-bend on mine. Seems a direct connection from the radiator to cooler and then cooler to transmission would make sense.
Constant tension clamps might solve your problem. The factory uses a clamp similar to the 16mm constant tension tension bands Grainger sells. 3/8 hose isn't too expensive and there are a million solutions to join 3/8 tube and hose to just about anything you can think of. I just finished up a large cooler in front of the radiator using these clamps and 5/8 hydraulic hose supports to anchor the hose, it wan't difficult once I got into it.
@Jerry Bransford,
so my 04 pressure line is DS on the radiator.
your running to the cooler then into the rad., correct?
maybe overthinking , but with a simple heat sink tube, might it be better to run rad. > cooler > return to trans.
cooler b4 radiator seems it'll never shed more than the radiator temp.
cooler after could allow it to shed more heat once the radiator has done it's job, no?
or are you dictated to use the pump to push do to your remote location? i'm condensed all up front, no long runs.
so my 04 pressure line is DS on the radiator.
your running to the cooler then into the rad., correct?
maybe overthinking , but with a simple heat sink tube, might it be better to run rad. > cooler > return to trans.
cooler b4 radiator seems it'll never shed more than the radiator temp.
cooler after could allow it to shed more heat once the radiator has done it's job, no?
or are you dictated to use the pump to push do to your remote location? i'm condensed all up front, no long runs.
Cooler should be after radiator, in the return line to the transmission. Pretty sure that’s how Jerry’s is run.
“Coolant hose routing and connections
The two coolant hoses are routed along the driver’s side of the frame towards the radiator. The two hoses are connected to the radiator's transmission cooler output side, so the Derale system cools the ATF flowing back towards the transmission. Which side of the radiator's transmission cooler the Derale gets connected into, passenger-side or driver's side, depends on your TJ's model year and thus its transmission type.”
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For 2003 and newer models which use the 4-speed 42RLE transmission, the Derale cooler lines connect to the driver's-side transmission output port and the hard line the OE driver's-side hose used to connect to. Entirely remove the OE short hose that connected the driver's-side transmission cooler port to the hard line, connect the new Derale hoses to those fittings.
i read this 10x i think i'm just bassakwards....................when he states "transmission output port" he's describing the radiator port, yes? not the transmission line. this is what was tripping me i just need to slow down and think for a min.
so this is the trans cooler output i'm connecting to on the driver side, then my cooler then back home to the pan.
i read this 10x i think i'm just bassakwards....................when he states "transmission output port" he's describing the radiator port, yes? not the transmission line. this is what was tripping me i just need to slow down and think for a min.
so this is the trans cooler output i'm connecting to on the driver side, then my cooler then back home to the pan.
Hey guys, I just did this install last week. Looking at the instructions, I thought I could knock it out on a Sunday. Ended up spending 2-3 hours a night during the week to do it. Here are the things I ran into:
1) My fan did not have the label telling you which wire is ground and a blue and a black wire. I originally followed Jerry's instructions but reading through the thread, it looks like there might be variances depending on build date so I bench tested mine and it turned out that blue is power and black is ground for mine.
2) Didn't seem to be mentioned in the rest of this thread so might have just been a problem for me but my cooler didn't have the full rotation on the mount because the head of the lower mounting screw to the bracket would hit the cooler to frame mounting bracket when tilting the cooler. This made it so I could only mount it about 45 degrees or more (very vertical). I was going to try it at 45 degrees, but that made one of the lines touch the bottom of the body (even with my 1.25" body lift) so I took it out and trimmed the cooler to frame mounting bracket where the screw hit so it could rotate the full motion.
3) Taking off the trans/transfer case skid would have made things much easier, but me being the stubborn and lazy person I am, I did not want to remove it. This made it much harder to install the mounting brackets for me until I figured out the install order. First, I removed the cooler from its frame. I was doing this anyway because of the trimming from #2 and I was going to add a shield similar to Jerry's. Then I mounted the frame bracket first. Then I mounted the cooler frame to the frame bracket and positioned everything where i wanted it. I tightened all the bolts at this point. Then I installed all the hoses and wires on the cooler and then finally mounted the cooler to its frame. When you have the cooler off its frame, take care when handling it so you don't damage any of the fins.
4) Since I have an '04, the hose that connected to the radiator had lots of slack. The other hose (with the U bend) had a very tight tolerance. It fit fine, but it had a bit of tension when everything was hooked up. I didn't like that so in order to take the tension out, I trimmed off about 3/4" or so from the U bend side.
5) I wanted to use the OEM hose clamps instead of the ones supplied with the kit but the hoses that come with the kit has a little bit larger OD than what my OEM clamps could open up to so it would not fit over the new hoses. Not a big deal but just something to note.
6) The kit does not come with an inline fuse or anything like that anymore. They now come with a vampire tap instead. As an EE, I'm going to tell you to throw that in the garbage now because its junk. Just get a fuse tap like others have recommended here. If you're using the fuse box in the glove compartment, its a mini ATM fuse type. I already had some of these laying around from a previous project that would work:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DYQM6EO/?tag=wranglerorg-20
1) My fan did not have the label telling you which wire is ground and a blue and a black wire. I originally followed Jerry's instructions but reading through the thread, it looks like there might be variances depending on build date so I bench tested mine and it turned out that blue is power and black is ground for mine.
2) Didn't seem to be mentioned in the rest of this thread so might have just been a problem for me but my cooler didn't have the full rotation on the mount because the head of the lower mounting screw to the bracket would hit the cooler to frame mounting bracket when tilting the cooler. This made it so I could only mount it about 45 degrees or more (very vertical). I was going to try it at 45 degrees, but that made one of the lines touch the bottom of the body (even with my 1.25" body lift) so I took it out and trimmed the cooler to frame mounting bracket where the screw hit so it could rotate the full motion.
3) Taking off the trans/transfer case skid would have made things much easier, but me being the stubborn and lazy person I am, I did not want to remove it. This made it much harder to install the mounting brackets for me until I figured out the install order. First, I removed the cooler from its frame. I was doing this anyway because of the trimming from #2 and I was going to add a shield similar to Jerry's. Then I mounted the frame bracket first. Then I mounted the cooler frame to the frame bracket and positioned everything where i wanted it. I tightened all the bolts at this point. Then I installed all the hoses and wires on the cooler and then finally mounted the cooler to its frame. When you have the cooler off its frame, take care when handling it so you don't damage any of the fins.
4) Since I have an '04, the hose that connected to the radiator had lots of slack. The other hose (with the U bend) had a very tight tolerance. It fit fine, but it had a bit of tension when everything was hooked up. I didn't like that so in order to take the tension out, I trimmed off about 3/4" or so from the U bend side.
5) I wanted to use the OEM hose clamps instead of the ones supplied with the kit but the hoses that come with the kit has a little bit larger OD than what my OEM clamps could open up to so it would not fit over the new hoses. Not a big deal but just something to note.
6) The kit does not come with an inline fuse or anything like that anymore. They now come with a vampire tap instead. As an EE, I'm going to tell you to throw that in the garbage now because its junk. Just get a fuse tap like others have recommended here. If you're using the fuse box in the glove compartment, its a mini ATM fuse type. I already had some of these laying around from a previous project that would work:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DYQM6EO/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Rock Toy
TJ Enthusiast
Anyone add a trans temp gauge when installing this cooler? And if so, where did you mount the gauge and where did you tie into the line/transmission to get the temperature?