There’s something else that I wanted to ask about. I’m looking at the plastic fender flares, and it seems that they reduce the suspension travel at least an inch compared to where the tire would rub against the edge of the fender without the flare. So I’m kind of tempted to take a saw to the plastic flares and cut them. Am I looking at this the wrong way? Thanks in advance.
How to set your bump stop on a Jeep Wrangler TJ
- Thread starter UnlimitedLJ04
- Start date
The outter edge. The wheels on my Jeep have 3.75” backspacing, so they are sticking out somewhat, and it looks like when the wheel goes up, it would first rub against the plastic flare.
The flares will move out of the way. What happens when you cycle the axles? How much up travel?
Schwifty Rich
TJ Enthusiast
Cycling this suspension and adding bump stops is so much fun! Right?!
But seriously I’ve just gone back and done an alignment of the wheels and track bar for the axle left and right. I’m now looking to center my bump stops but they seem to be off.
I’m guessing the only solution would be adjustable control arms.
But seriously I’ve just gone back and done an alignment of the wheels and track bar for the axle left and right. I’m now looking to center my bump stops but they seem to be off.
I’m guessing the only solution would be adjustable control arms.
It's not hard but here are a few tips. Drill the correct size hole for the tap. Usually the drill size is etched on the tap but if not the info. is readily available from the web, a Starrett drill/tap card, etc.. Once the hole is drilled start the tap as cleanly as you can at a right angle using good cutting fluid. Rigid pipe cutting fluid is excellent. An adjustable tap wrench such as shown works well. Take your time with the tap by slowly turning a few turns to cut the thread and then reverse 1/2+ turn to break the chip that forms. Neglecting this step can break the tap. Once all the way thru, back the tap out and then go all the way in with the tap just to clean up ensuring nice sharp threads. Here is a decent video.>>>https://video.search.yahoo.com/sear...=2c0a91792e29cf8564b541a57a2e1be4&action=view
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I'm trying to figure this out, so I'm sorry to ask, but what I got from ARB is my front shocks have a range of 15.43 to 26.79 inches, and the rear 14.41 to 24.49 inches. I've got a 4" suspension lift, and I'll be adding a 0.5 inch and 1.0 inch spacer, front and rear, to compensate for sag. At the same time, I was thinking of either Currie, Rokmen, or Metalcloak adjustable bump stops. Why can't I just install everything, cycle the suspension, and adjust the bump stops based on the numbers from ARB? I guess I'm most confused on the need to remove the coils, and disconnect the bottom of the shock. I'm guessing the removal of the coil is so it'll be easier to manipulate the suspension?
Correct. Remove the springs, the jounces and disconnect the sway bar. This will allow you to move the axle through its entire range of motion with just a floor jack. Keep the shocks attached while cycling unless you are wanting to find the limits without shocks.
Hmm, okay, thanks. I hope I can figure this out. Trying to make sure everything is setup correctly before EJS.
I'm a little surprised that you have to disconnect your antirock too, but I guess I don't know that much. Still not sure why you disconnect the bottom of the shock; is that the shock you're compressing, or both of them?
Disconnecting the AR just makes it easier to move things around and get the full range of motion without the weight of the Jeep acting on the axle. The shocks should not be disconnected while cycling. Doing so only makes it easier to pull the springs out.
Makes sense on the antirock, and disconnecting the shock to remove the spring. I just could NOT figure out why you'd leave the shock disconnecting while cycling, that makes so much more sense. Thanks!
If you don't remove the springs, you will start lifting the Jeep before the suspension fully compresses.
Removing the sway bar makes it easier to lift the entire axle into full compression and will allow you to get better accuracy if you ever plan to disconnect it when off road.
Your goal is to make sure to get the right bump stop that allows you the most possible uptravel without the shock being the limiter to travel or worse, the tire hitting the fender.
Removing the sway bar makes it easier to lift the entire axle into full compression and will allow you to get better accuracy if you ever plan to disconnect it when off road.
Your goal is to make sure to get the right bump stop that allows you the most possible uptravel without the shock being the limiter to travel or worse, the tire hitting the fender.
A little bit of tire rub at the outer reaches of the movements is fine. The tire is soft — up to a point.
Agreed. I should have clarified. I was thinking more like slamming into the fender than a slight rub at full compression.
Makes sense. I was recently at a gatekeeper, and my tire was stuffed all the way up in my fender, and rubbing. Got me thinking I need to re-evaluate the bump stops.
I've seen that mentioned a few times and I don't understand it either.
Good, I wasn't the only one.
@Thunder Mass
Keep in mind that for the front, you don't want to extend the factory jounce bumpers, you want to install bump stop extensions on the bottom spring perch.
See my writeup on bump stop extensions
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...nsions-on-a-1997-2006-jeep-wrangler-tj.31063/
For the rear, installing the extensions above the bump stop cup is preferred.
Keep in mind that for the front, you don't want to extend the factory jounce bumpers, you want to install bump stop extensions on the bottom spring perch.
See my writeup on bump stop extensions
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...nsions-on-a-1997-2006-jeep-wrangler-tj.31063/
For the rear, installing the extensions above the bump stop cup is preferred.
I planned on adding extensions on the bottom, but why are extensions preferred in the rear? Can I do bottom extensions in the rear as well?