Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

It just happened!

Before you get carried away, do a test on a straight road without much camber. Try to drive it straight with the steering wheel on center. Pay attention to it not wanting to be centered as in as soon as it gets to center, it pops over ever so slightly to either side requiring constant correction because you can't drive it with the steering wheel centered.

I'm going to re-check that every thing is tight, then start with the straight road test. I'll have an annual VA State inspection due in June, so when that is done, assuming it passes, my next step will be a professional alignment. I really don't want to put any parts on this until I clearly identify the issue.
The other way to think about "memory" steer is the breakaway torque is way too high on the pins in the balljoint body when they are loaded. What happens is the torque or force to move them rotationally is way too high but drops very low once they move. That leads to very wonky steering in that as soon as they move, you've steered too far and have to pull it back. The problem is when it comes back, it stops, the force goes back up to move it again, apply high force, it drops off when it moves, so you rinse and repeat with a very exhausting to drive steering set up.

Loose ball joints only cause steering issues if they induce DW, the rest of the time, all they create is a very slight vagueness and maybe some very slight wandering.
There is some slight wandering. I'm beginning to wonder about the ball joints and will confirm if they are good our bad asap.
 
Here is a stupid thought,

Have you checked the steering stabilizer to make sure the rod doesn't have a slight bend in it.

Had a super duty that did that and drove me nuts till I had my Dad turn the wheel while I was under it watching. The rod was bent ever so much and would hinder steering.

I put a new one on when I installed Blaine's tie rod. However, I did notice that the tie rod clamp slightly contacts the steering dampener at full lock. I'll need to rotate the one on the dampener side so there is zero interference. On a separate note, when inspecting for this, I noticed a significant oil leak coming from either the oil pan gasket or crank seal. :cautious:
 
I don't recall all your latest upgrades but if you haven't had a laser alignment after suspension upgrades, I recommend getting it done by the pros. I kept trying to use all the tape measurement methods mentioned on this forum and yet my Jeep was a terror to drive.

My local dealership lifts Jeeps so I took it to them for a laser alignment. —> The Jeep was on rails driving it home. Crazy nimble that I'm still trying to get comfortable with after the terror rides I had after each 'at home' alignment I tried.

Any local shop that modified trucks, Jeeps, etc. should be able to do a good laser alignment. I wouldn't take a modified Jeep to just any shop for alignment - pick one that modifies larger vehicles.

At this point my list is:

- Do Blaine's suggested straight steer test
- Have someone confirm that my ball joints are okay
- Get a professional alignment
 
I'm going to re-check that every thing is tight, then start with the straight road test. I'll have an annual VA State inspection due in June, so when that is done, assuming it passes, my next step will be a professional alignment. I really don't want to put any parts on this until I clearly identify the issue.

There is some slight wandering. I'm beginning to wonder about the ball joints and will confirm if they are good our bad asap.

Well, the "wandering" issue has been discovered. The ball joints are fine, as is everything else I installed. However, it turns out that the guy I bought the Dana 44 front from straight drilled the knuckles, eliminating the taper. I thought about ordering a set of replacement knuckles, but that would be a waste of money. It looks like the BBK is now being bumped up on the must-do list.
 
Installed a set of knuckles I pulled from a Dana 30. This will hold me over until I order the BBK. Also, new 5.38 gears went in front and rear this week, along with a rear Ox air locker. I'm hoping that sometime during the Summer I'll get to the following parts piled up in the garage:

- Savvy belly skid
- Savvy gas tank skid
- PSC steering
- Setrab transmission cooler
- and more
 
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Rear OX locker is plumbed in. I split the compressor, so the locker can be switched out when I need the compressor for airing tires.

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WARNING - A LITTLE VENTING Here! .....I'm beginning to think this Jeep doesn't like me. After the re-gear 3 weeks ago, I only went 150 miles before the RR axle seal, which had less than 4K miles on them, started leaking. I figured no big deal, I have the parts, so I'll pull the shaft and put in a new seal, bearing, and bearing retainer in. When I go to pull the axle, I also find the RR parking brake shoes have zero trace of the actual brake shoe material (The picture shown is just to hold the backing plate and dust shield on). Okay, I'll spend a little more money and fix that. Sadly, less than 100 miles after fixing those, the LR axle seal starts to leak. Out comes the axle, and in goes a new seal bearing, and retainer.

After I fix all that, I take it out for a ride and get the same feeling I get every time, which is I really don't like the way the LJ rides. Regardless of the shocks I try, the back-end feels like a worn out 70's full size car, i.e., it "floats" down the road.

Also, the front steering is horrible. I bought the Dana 44 front from someone and have already discovered a couple issues, with one being they straight drilled the knuckles, so I had to replace those. It also won't return to center and the steering is very "twitchy". I suspect the issue has something to do with the ball joints, since I've replaced everything else. While the ball joints are new, they're a stock replacement that has no grease fittings for the upper ball joints. They are very tight,so it looks like I'll have to pull those, which worries me.

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WARNING - A LITTLE VENTING Here! .....I'm beginning to think this Jeep doesn't like me. After the re-gear 3 weeks ago, I only went 150 miles before the RR axle seal, which had less than 4K miles on them, started leaking. I figured no big deal, I have the parts, so I'll pull the shaft and put in a new seal, bearing, and bearing retainer in. When I go to pull the axle, I also find the RR parking brake shoes have zero trace of the actual brake shoe material (The picture shown is just to hold the backing plate and dust shield on). Okay, I'll spend a little more money and fix that. Sadly, less than 100 miles after fixing those, the LR axle seal starts to leak. Out comes the axle, and in goes a new seal bearing, and retainer.

After I fix all that, I take it out for a ride and get the same feeling I get every time, which is I really don't like the way the LJ rides. Regardless of the shocks I try, the back-end feels like a worn out 70's full size car, i.e., it "floats" down the road.

Also, the front steering is horrible. I bought the Dana 44 front from someone and have already discovered a couple issues, with one being they straight drilled the knuckles, so I had to replace those. It also won't return to center and the steering is very "twitchy". I suspect the issue has something to do with the ball joints, since I've replaced everything else. While the ball joints are new, they're a stock replacement that has no grease fittings for the upper ball joints. They are very tight,so it looks like I'll have to pull those, which worries me.

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For the floaty feeling, have you had a professional laser alignment? I tried multiple times to do a DIY an alignment after going to 4" lift, TT, etc. all at once. I never felt comfortable driving - scary more often than not.

Had a local Jeep dealer who also lifts Jeep (so it wasn't just a shop expecting OEM parts and would understand seeing double adjustable arms) do a laser alignment and the Jeep is on rails now (I'm still getting comfortable to how well it rides after the terror it was - still not ready to throw it into corners I know it will take because still have shell shock after the DIY alignment tries).

—-

For the RR side, if the parking brake pads were dragging and creating heat, I wouldn't be surprise if that led to the seal deforming and failing. Not saying it was dragging, but that seems like a potential cause.

What came out of the inside of the rotor when you removed them? Dust, pad fragments? Were they new with the regear and/or did they have good pad material left at that time?

—-

Can't say why the LR then failed so could be a bad batch of seals and the parking brake pads aren't related.

——

Sucks you're going through it but hoping you find root cause before your keep replacing parts over again. Also hope you can get to a comfortable ride!
 
I am sorry you are having issues. I feel your pain though. Hopefully ball joints fixes it.

I am ok with the blackmaxx shocks I'm running now. They are a but firmer than I would like. I have debated on tuned fox shocks for stock mounts. Maybe an option if you are looking to finally nail down the ride. Or jump to outboard!
 
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WARNING - A LITTLE VENTING Here! .....I'm beginning to think this Jeep doesn't like me. After the re-gear 3 weeks ago, I only went 150 miles before the RR axle seal, which had less than 4K miles on them, started leaking. I figured no big deal, I have the parts, so I'll pull the shaft and put in a new seal, bearing, and bearing retainer in. When I go to pull the axle, I also find the RR parking brake shoes have zero trace of the actual brake shoe material (The picture shown is just to hold the backing plate and dust shield on). Okay, I'll spend a little more money and fix that. Sadly, less than 100 miles after fixing those, the LR axle seal starts to leak. Out comes the axle, and in goes a new seal bearing, and retainer.

After I fix all that, I take it out for a ride and get the same feeling I get every time, which is I really don't like the way the LJ rides. Regardless of the shocks I try, the back-end feels like a worn out 70's full size car, i.e., it "floats" down the road.

Also, the front steering is horrible. I bought the Dana 44 front from someone and have already discovered a couple issues, with one being they straight drilled the knuckles, so I had to replace those. It also won't return to center and the steering is very "twitchy". I suspect the issue has something to do with the ball joints, since I've replaced everything else. While the ball joints are new, they're a stock replacement that has no grease fittings for the upper ball joints. They are very tight,so it looks like I'll have to pull those, which worries me.

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View attachment 545926

Sorry to hear of ongoing issues, hope they are resolved soon. Is it possible something on the axle could be slightly bent or twisted and that is causing issues?
 
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WARNING - A LITTLE VENTING Here! .....I'm beginning to think this Jeep doesn't like me. After the re-gear 3 weeks ago, I only went 150 miles before the RR axle seal, which had less than 4K miles on them, started leaking. I figured no big deal, I have the parts, so I'll pull the shaft and put in a new seal, bearing, and bearing retainer in. When I go to pull the axle, I also find the RR parking brake shoes have zero trace of the actual brake shoe material (The picture shown is just to hold the backing plate and dust shield on). Okay, I'll spend a little more money and fix that. Sadly, less than 100 miles after fixing those, the LR axle seal starts to leak. Out comes the axle, and in goes a new seal bearing, and retainer.

After I fix all that, I take it out for a ride and get the same feeling I get every time, which is I really don't like the way the LJ rides. Regardless of the shocks I try, the back-end feels like a worn out 70's full size car, i.e., it "floats" down the road.

Also, the front steering is horrible. I bought the Dana 44 front from someone and have already discovered a couple issues, with one being they straight drilled the knuckles, so I had to replace those. It also won't return to center and the steering is very "twitchy". I suspect the issue has something to do with the ball joints, since I've replaced everything else. While the ball joints are new, they're a stock replacement that has no grease fittings for the upper ball joints. They are very tight,so it looks like I'll have to pull those, which worries me.

View attachment 545925

View attachment 545926

Toughen Up - Buttercup!

🙂

Sorry, everyone else was being so nice I felt I needed to balance the crowd …
 
For the floaty feeling, have you had a professional laser alignment? I tried multiple times to do a DIY an alignment after going to 4" lift, TT, etc. all at once. I never felt comfortable driving - scary more often than not.

Had a local Jeep dealer who also lifts Jeep (so it wasn't just a shop expecting OEM parts and would understand seeing double adjustable arms) do a laser alignment and the Jeep is on rails now (I'm still getting comfortable to how well it rides after the terror it was - still not ready to throw it into corners I know it will take because still have shell shock after the DIY alignment tries).
I just had the front done, but not the back. That is now on the list,
For the RR side, if the parking brake pads were dragging and creating heat, I wouldn't be surprise if that led to the seal deforming and failing. Not saying it was dragging, but that seems like a potential cause.

What came out of the inside of the rotor when you removed them? Dust, pad fragments? Were they new with the regear and/or did they have good pad material left at that time?
Both parking brake shoe sets were replaced just before the re-gear. The LR was like new, but the RR was completely gone. The strange thing was there were no fragments whatsoever left.
 
I am sorry you are having issues. I feel your pain though. Hopefully ball joints fixes it.

I am ok with the blackmaxx shocks I'm running now. They are a but firmer than I would like. I have debated on tuned fox shocks for stock mounts. Maybe an option if you are looking to finally nail down the ride. Or jump to outboard!

I've tried BM and a set of very firm Bilsteins. The weird part is there was zero ride difference between the two. It's a little hard to tell, but the rear seems to be the issue. As I said, whenever I hit a bump it responds like a worn out full-size 70's car, especially the back.
 
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Sorry to hear of ongoing issues, hope they are resolved soon. Is it possible something on the axle could be slightly bent or twisted and that is causing issues?

I checked all that and didn't see any issues. While not the entire problem, today I checked the ball joints. I moved the knuckles back and fourth, with the tires off, and it was difficult to do so. The ball joint set that was on the front 44 when I bought it was new, but the uppers have no grease fitting and I'm betting they are some cheap store brand. I'm now hoping that when I remove them they're not splinned. That will not put me in a happy place!
 
After I fix all that, I take it out for a ride and get the same feeling I get every time, which is I really don't like the way the LJ rides. Regardless of the shocks I try, the back-end feels like a worn out 70's full size car, i.e., it "floats" down the road.

What happens when you put down some weight in the back of the jeep, say ~135lbs or so?
 
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WARNING - A LITTLE VENTING Here! .....I'm beginning to think this Jeep doesn't like me. After the re-gear 3 weeks ago, I only went 150 miles before the RR axle seal, which had less than 4K miles on them, started leaking. I figured no big deal, I have the parts, so I'll pull the shaft and put in a new seal, bearing, and bearing retainer in. When I go to pull the axle, I also find the RR parking brake shoes have zero trace of the actual brake shoe material (The picture shown is just to hold the backing plate and dust shield on). Okay, I'll spend a little more money and fix that. Sadly, less than 100 miles after fixing those, the LR axle seal starts to leak. Out comes the axle, and in goes a new seal bearing, and retainer.

After I fix all that, I take it out for a ride and get the same feeling I get every time, which is I really don't like the way the LJ rides. Regardless of the shocks I try, the back-end feels like a worn out 70's full size car, i.e., it "floats" down the road.

Also, the front steering is horrible. I bought the Dana 44 front from someone and have already discovered a couple issues, with one being they straight drilled the knuckles, so I had to replace those. It also won't return to center and the steering is very "twitchy". I suspect the issue has something to do with the ball joints, since I've replaced everything else. While the ball joints are new, they're a stock replacement that has no grease fittings for the upper ball joints. They are very tight,so it looks like I'll have to pull those, which worries me.

View attachment 545925

View attachment 545926

These Jeeps can be a real pain. Sometimes I go over the edge with frustration. It’s like a real love relationship. I hope you get it sorted.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator