Need trailer purchase advise

Why a 20' trailer? I would suggest a 16' or 18' but that is just me.

Also in the trailers listed why the huge jump from 7K lbs to 14K lbs? Don't they offer a 8K lb or 10K lb trailer?

I had a custom 14' trailer built & wish it was 2' longer at least. Here is my take on it. If you have a 20' trailer you'll have every friend asking to either borrow it or asking you to haul their junk with it. And 9 times out of 10 you'll get it back in worse shape than it was when it left. That was a big part of why I went with the 14' trailer.

I originally was thinking I'd want a 16' trailer, but someone I know locally said that I would regret getting any smaller than 20'. He said it pulls a lot better, and the extra capacity is nice to have. I'm open to whatever, I just want to make sure I get the right thing the first time.

The jump in weight ratings is based on what I found on the website of the local dealer. I would have jumped at a 10k# steel trailer I think. Its the 7000# one that is worrying me. I'm not sure if I could get a 10k# one or not. But I doubt I'd be able to get it in time for the Moab trip...

Other question, what are you towing this setup with? 1/2 ton truck or SUV? Or 3/4 ton or larger truck?

If it's a 1/2 ton or SUV then I'd get the lightest trailer possible & also make sure to read the requirements for max or close to max weight. Things like a weight distribution hitch come into play.

Even with my 14' trail I'm going to use a WD hitch on my 1/2 ton truck just to be safer.

I have a 2020 Silverado 2500 gasser.

I wished I'd gotten a tilt trailer too but the rear is dovetailed so I can drive the Jeep on & off without the ramps. But the dovetail means it drags a LOT on uneven roads. Pulling out the ramps can suck (Old Guy) but mine aren't very heavy either.

Yeah, this is one of the fairly forceful suggestions I got when seeking advice. lol It seems like loading would be much easier.
 
I originally was thinking I'd want a 16' trailer, but someone I know locally said that I would regret getting any smaller than 20'. He said it pulls a lot better, and the extra capacity is nice to have. I'm open to whatever, I just want to make sure I get the right thing the first time.

I don't know if that is true or not it's been too long since I've pulled a longer trailer. I don't have any issues with my 14' trailer as far as tracking but a shorter trailer can be harder to back up. I'd get what works for you. Unless you need that added length I'd go for the 16' but the 20' is more versatile.

The jump in weight ratings is based on what I found on the website of the local dealer. I would have jumped at a 10k# steel trailer I think. Its the 7000# one that is worrying me. I'm not sure if I could get a 10k# one or not. But I doubt I'd be able to get it in time for the Moab trip...

OK. Might not hurt to ask as they might be able to get it from another dealer?

I have a 2020 Silverado 2500 gasser.

Other than fuel mileage you're good.

Yeah, this is one of the fairly forceful suggestions I got when seeking advice. lol It seems like loading would be much easier.

Yes a tilt deck is so much easier. Good luck with your search.
 
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So many used trailers out there...why buy new?

So many new and used trailers out there with terrible welds, thin steel and bad design. Also a few out there that are so over engineered they're too heavy.

-Mac


@mrblaine has clearly been down the same thought process as me. He spells out my exact reasons below:

The main reason we have to buy new is used prices for the beat to crap terrible versions are near retail. Our trailer market sucks.

There are several local JP trailers, way overbuilt, way too heavy, car haulers, they want 5 grand for them minimum, 3500 lb axles under them with brakes on one. By the time I upgrade axles, tires, and suspension to be the 5200 lb versions they should have come with, I'm well over 7500 into the trailer and for that, I'm buying new.

This post below, is my exact reason the 7000# trailer worries me. It seems it is prudent to go up in weight capacity.

They tried to tell my buddy with the PJ trailer that it was something along the lines of 2000 lbs. He weighed it empty and it came in at 2500. 18" with dual 3500 lb axles, brakes on one. As soon as he rolls the TJ Unlimited up on it, he is over capacity and zero extra for extra fuel, propane, firewood, or anything else we take to the desert for more than a couple day trip.
 
I don't know if that is true or not it's been too long since I've pulled a longer trailer. I don't have any issues with my 14' trailer as far as tracking but a shorter trailer can be harder to back up. I'd get what works for you. Unless you need that added length I'd go for the 16' but the 20' is more versatile.



OK. Might not hurt to ask as they might be able to get it from another dealer?



Other than fuel mileage you're good.



Yes a tilt deck is so much easier. Good luck with your search.

Thanks for the input. I'll post up with what I end up getting.
 
For conversational purposes, I called down to the dealership, and they do have a 20' 10,000# manual tilt for $6,345. So, I feel like I'm narrowing down my options to that, or the aluminum trailer for $9,971 with power tilt.

It comes down to, is it worth an additional $3,626+tax for something that will not corrode and has power tilt? IDK.... I'm leaning towards 'probably not'
 
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I originally was thinking I'd want a 16' trailer, but someone I know locally said that I would regret getting any smaller than 20'. He said it pulls a lot better, and the extra capacity is nice to have. I'm open to whatever, I just want to make sure I get the right thing the first time.

Too many variables and the only reason a shorter trailer pulls worse is it was not built right. Mine is a 12' deck. It pulls perfectly fine and then some.
 
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I wished I'd gotten a tilt trailer too but the rear is dovetailed so I can drive the Jeep on & off without the ramps. But the dovetail means it drags a LOT on uneven roads. Pulling out the ramps can suck (Old Guy) but mine aren't very heavy either.
I know what you mean about dove tails. I have a 16K deck over with those for hay and equipment hauling. Its pretty easy to drag the back.
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Also, although my truck is a 3500 with a Cummins, air bags, 18K hitch and F rated tires, I think the loaded trailer is probably too big for the truck. Looking forward to a smaller trailer for the Jeep.
 
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For conversational purposes, I called down to the dealership, and they do have a 20' 10,000# manual tilt for $6,345. So, I feel like I'm narrowing down my options to that, or the aluminum trailer for $9,971 with power tilt.

It comes down to, is it worth an additional $3,626+tax for something that will not corrode and has power tilt? IDK.... I'm leaning towards 'probably not'

Don't ignore the weight differences of the trailer.
 
It looks like the steel is 7200# payload capacity & the aluminum is 7700# payload.

Not a game changer.

GWVR on both is 10,000#

It's your choice ultimately but unless you have a compelling reason to get the aluminum I'd go for the steel. Keep up on the paint & maintenance and should last a long time. Mine is a wood bed and I'd asked when I bought it how I should coat the wood. Everyone up here in the PNW said leave it alone. It's 15 years old and still looks great. The metal needs some attention as far as paint goes but that is it.
 
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It's your choice ultimately but unless you have a compelling reason to get the aluminum I'd go for the steel. Keep up on the paint & maintenance and should last a long time. Mine is a wood bed and I'd asked when I bought it how I should coat the wood. Everyone up here in the PNW said leave it alone. It's 15 years old and still looks great. The metal needs some attention as far as paint goes but that is it.

Yeah, I think I'm landing in the same place. I'll pry go pick it up tomorrow.
 
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Why the dovetail rear section? I would think that would be useful for a car but not needed for a Jeep. I wish I had any aluminum car hauler.

I also hauled my Mustang on it. Had to have extended ramps to get it on. Stored the car on it inside in the winter.

Wouldn’t need tilt or dovetail for the Jeep.
 
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Why the dovetail rear section? I would think that would be useful for a car but not needed for a Jeep. I wish I had any aluminum car hauler.

I did the dovetail section so I could drive on & off without my ramps. Even with 35" tires it was no problem but I did have to use my ramps with my daughter's on 31" tires. If I goosed it I could load my SXS without the ramps.

Better shot of the rear.

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H&H looks like a good builder so quality shouldn’t be an issue. I have a 18’ PJ Dove tail with 5200 axles
and steel deck. It’s been a great trailer. If I were to buy another trailer it would have drive over fenders or deck over. My Tj does fit between the fenders but it’s close and it does limit the ability to carry other vehicles like when your buddies JK shits the bed on a trail. I‘d avoid a tilt trailer it‘s just not worth the extra maintenance and I believe there just don‘t hold well over the long term.
 
They tried to tell my buddy with the PJ trailer that it was something along the lines of 2000 lbs. He weighed it empty and it came in at 2500. 18" with dual 3500 lb axles, brakes on one. As soon as he rolls the TJ Unlimited up on it, he is over capacity and zero extra for extra fuel, propane, firewood, or anything else we take to the desert for more than a couple day trip.

I was looking at 16 & 18 foot versions, with the 16’ you have a little more carrying capacity but I think a little longer would be nice to be able to move the Jeep to get the tougher weight right.
 
I was looking at 16 & 18 foot versions, with the 16’ you have a little more carrying capacity but I think a little longer would be nice to be able to move the Jeep to get the tougher weight right.

It all depends on how you set the trailer up. My 12' deck rig hauler has 50 gallons of water, Group 34 battery to run the electric tongue jack and water transfer pump to move the water into the camper, storage for 50 quarts of fluids and assorted odds and ends, in bed tool box for storing larger stuff, tongue box for the odds and ends like funnels, tie down straps and ratchet straps, 2 spare trailer tires, catch all pockets under them to lay stuff while hooking up the trailer, and 2 barbeque size propane tanks. That doesn't include the 1/4 cord of wood we can toss under the back of the rig and close the tail gate on.

I had it built with excessive tongue weight because my tow rig can handle it. My tongue weight is a scaled 1200 lbs.
 
It all depends on how you set the trailer up. My 12' deck rig hauler has 50 gallons of water, Group 34 battery to run the electric tongue jack and water transfer pump to move the water into the camper, storage for 50 quarts of fluids and assorted odds and ends, in bed tool box for storing larger stuff, tongue box for the odds and ends like funnels, tie down straps and ratchet straps, 2 spare trailer tires, catch all pockets under them to lay stuff while hooking up the trailer, and 2 barbeque size propane tanks. That doesn't include the 1/4 cord of wood we can toss under the back of the rig and close the tail gate on.

I had it built with excessive tongue weight because my tow rig can handle it. My tongue weight is a scaled 1200 lbs.

Sounds like the Jeep version of my bike and quad trailer I had when I had my camper.Sounds like you have a place for everything, perfect for a week out in Johnson valley.
 
I made the purchase this morning. When I went out there, they didn't have the 10,000# trailer in stock. It was marked wrong in their records. I ended up getting the 20' 14,000# manual tilt. It cost me $700 more to get the larger trailer, but I feel like the benefits that I got made it worth it. This trailer automatically comes with 16" wheels and 10ply tires, plus of course the added weight capacity. Now I can haul just about anything on it. It took virtually no time at all to load and strap down. I am quite pleased with the purchase so far.

My only gripe, is the room between the fenders isn't great. If I wanted to go with a wider wheel base, it wouldn't all for more than 4 1/2" additional width. You guys know better than me, but that might be plenty. IDK. Of course, there are ways around this, and I'm not actually concerned about it.

Cost was $7,093 pre tax.

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