@Tldelaney can you post a link to that fan shroud please? I know David mentioned a champion one as well in a different thread but I wasn’t able to find it
Overheating after supercharger install
- Thread starter Crashmymax
- Start date
Tldelaney
TJ Enthusiast
https://www.barnes4wd.com/tj-lj-aluminum-fan-shroud-.htmlThanks, having options is always good!
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Just picked up the jeep from re gear. About 4 mile drive on interstate at 65 mph. No hills perfectly flat and it overheated. So it does not require an incline to overheat. Pulled over as soon as the alarm sounded. Sat idling for about 2 minutes and the temp dropped enough to start driving again. I'll be out of town this weekend so no time for data logging but hopefully the following weekend. Love to know what's going on.
I am just thinking out side the box , could you and a large heat exchanger to the downstream side of your heater core hoses to remote mount a exchanger with an electric fan ? Possibly adding a second remote mounted radiator ?
There has to be a way to pull more heat out of the total system.
A GMC Syclone, or a Buick Grand National have obviously dealt with the challenges of a boosted engine in an ECM controlled world.
How does a blown Small Block Chevy in a T bucket live with the small Radiator in that application ?
Hell, even a Corvair Spyder dealt with a turboed engine that had only air cooling.
Don't even get me started on how a Porsche 917 flat 12 lived with 950 H.P. and air/ oil cooling
50 Years ago.
Nothing is new under the sun
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There's no need for all that. Something is not right. I'm running a heat exchanger in front of my radiator along with water lines to the turbo. I run 80 miles an hour down the tollway every day in Texas heat with the A/C on full blast. My temp gauge never moves past 210, and has certainly never boiled over. Heck, there are stretches were I pull up a hill at speed and it's running 2-3 pounds of boost for 1/2 to 3/4 miles, and it doesn't move off half on the gauge.
The Magnum Powers kit requires the removal of the mechanical fan in place for a piggy-back pulley to run the S/C setup off the harmonic damper. It's an interesting design but eats up alot of real estate in front of the engine. There's not much room between the S/C pulley and the back of the radiator. It's a tight fit for a proper electric fan and a shroud.
I witnessed one installed on an 05 and I bought his kit after he pulled it for a LS swap. He was having overheating issues, too. Mostly on uphill battles. Said owner spent thousands with trying to tune it but gave up. Now, I have one of MP's kits sitting on a shelf and It might just stay there after I install my stroker.
I know Charles suggested mounting the I.C. below, along with another fan. This should take some heat away from in front of the radiator. With a proper tune, he also said he only had a handful of folks with overheat issues, particularly down south. Good Luck.
I witnessed one installed on an 05 and I bought his kit after he pulled it for a LS swap. He was having overheating issues, too. Mostly on uphill battles. Said owner spent thousands with trying to tune it but gave up. Now, I have one of MP's kits sitting on a shelf and It might just stay there after I install my stroker.
I know Charles suggested mounting the I.C. below, along with another fan. This should take some heat away from in front of the radiator. With a proper tune, he also said he only had a handful of folks with overheat issues, particularly down south. Good Luck.
Tldelaney
TJ Enthusiast
Tldelaney
TJ Enthusiast
I've never installed one, heck I don't think I've ever seen one in person. I can tell you from experience that you can make a really great product, but if it is not installed properly or used correctly it can have issues. Then there are some products that are just crap. I can't comment to the MP kit as I have no experience. I can tell you that my decision to go turbo was based on a lot of these issues. I wanted to retain the mechanical fan as well as A/C, power steering and all the original emissions components. There were no kits that met those requirements that I could find anyways.
I have seen the drifter kids install old heater cores in the fenders and under the cars to help cool their engines. They run lots of RPM at fairly low speeds so they tend to get quite hot.I am just thinking out side the box , could you and a large heat exchanger to the downstream side of your heater core hoses to remote mount a exchanger with an electric fan ? Possibly adding a second remote mounted radiator ?
There has to be a way to pull more heat out of the total system.
A GMC Syclone, or a Buick Grand National have obviously dealt with the challenges of a boosted engine in an ECM controlled world.
How does a blown Small Block Chevy in a T bucket live with the small Radiator in that application ?
Hell, even a Corvair Spyder dealt with a turboed engine that had only air cooling.
Don't even get me started on how a Porsche 917 flat 12 lived with 950 H.P. and air/ oil cooling
50 Years ago.
Nothing is new under the sun
Makes sense , Return on investment is great to solve a problem not unlike low speed four wheelin.
This will most likely be met with dislike form some but my only other suggestion would be to look into a larger radiator.
While yes the stock radiator is more than adequate for cooling a stock 4cyl or 6cyl engine I question it's ability to cool yours.
Same as me needing to run a larger radiator for my V-8 swap I'd also look at maybe getting a aluminum radiator or one with a larger core. Also look into getting a crossflow instead of a downflow type radiator since the crossflow are suppose to cool better.
The brass radiator I have cooled my 5.2 just fine but it's going to be interesting to see if it can cool my stroked 5.9 that is a 6.7 now.
While yes the stock radiator is more than adequate for cooling a stock 4cyl or 6cyl engine I question it's ability to cool yours.
Same as me needing to run a larger radiator for my V-8 swap I'd also look at maybe getting a aluminum radiator or one with a larger core. Also look into getting a crossflow instead of a downflow type radiator since the crossflow are suppose to cool better.
The brass radiator I have cooled my 5.2 just fine but it's going to be interesting to see if it can cool my stroked 5.9 that is a 6.7 now.
The other thing I just thought about is I don't remember if you said what brand and size your fan is?
Get the BIGGEST fan you can fit but also make sure what the CFM rating is for it. Many only move about 2,000 CFM and you need something that is moving 3,000 CFM or more. Some Spal & the Black Magic fans will move that much.
It has it's own shroud also.
https://www.flex-a-lite.com/15-inch...an-with-adjustable-thermostat-controller.html
Get the BIGGEST fan you can fit but also make sure what the CFM rating is for it. Many only move about 2,000 CFM and you need something that is moving 3,000 CFM or more. Some Spal & the Black Magic fans will move that much.
It has it's own shroud also.
https://www.flex-a-lite.com/15-inch...an-with-adjustable-thermostat-controller.html
I have the boosted tech kit with a Mishimoto rad and fan. I overheat on hills with AC on, but its never boiled over, just gets over 220 and I let it idle for a while. I need a better fan, but don't want to go back to mechanical due to heat soak when I shut down. I can run the electric and cool while sitting.
My buddy has this fan on his Ram and his TJ. He claims it did a lot for managing heat. I might try one next summer. No need when the AC isn't on.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1609436064...d=link&campid=5337789113&toolid=20001&mkevt=1
My buddy has this fan on his Ram and his TJ. He claims it did a lot for managing heat. I might try one next summer. No need when the AC isn't on.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1609436064...d=link&campid=5337789113&toolid=20001&mkevt=1