Please help me solve the oscillating vibration crisis by providing some basic info on your Jeep
- Thread starter freedom_in_4low
- Start date
This work for ya? It can go a tad bit faster than 45mph, I think
Jokes aside .. Mercedes G-wagon models in the past have also came with 4.38s. I remember reading that newer rubicons with special packages also have deep axle gears. Need to refresh myself on that though, they have like a billion special editions now.
There is obviously a flaw with how i presented that question.
I was thinking how does TJ differ from everything else? Do LJs suffer this, but if they don't, then why do regeared JKs have this issue as well? Then there is a question on top of questions, all circling in the head, as well as a dilemma as to how to put it all into writing without turning it into 5 paragraphs of mind fuckery.
So lets just forget that i asked
I was thinking how does TJ differ from everything else? Do LJs suffer this, but if they don't, then why do regeared JKs have this issue as well? Then there is a question on top of questions, all circling in the head, as well as a dilemma as to how to put it all into writing without turning it into 5 paragraphs of mind fuckery.
So lets just forget that i asked
There is obviously a flaw with how i presented that question.
I was thinking how does TJ differ from everything else? Do LJs suffer this, but if they don't, then why do regeared JKs have this issue as well? Then there is a question on top of questions, all circling in the head, as well as a dilemma as to how to put it all into writing without turning it into 5 paragraphs of mind fuckery.
So lets just forget that i asked
I was just having fun answering your questions quite literally
But to the topic - yes, both LJs and TJs are known to be affected by this issue. The % of TJs reporting this issue is way more. I did a lot of reading. I don't know about JKs much so hard to comment. On my TJ, I tried everything I could. Only thing that finally resolved it is getting locking hubs in the front. That fix works on about 99% of the rigs with this specific issue (ie not caused by unbalanced driveshafts or improper pinion angles). There really isn't much you can do about it since it's likely a structural harmonic issue.
fourpointzero
TJ Addict
1. No
2. N/A
3. 2001 TJ Sport
4. Dana 30 front / 44 rear / 3.73 ratio
5. 33 GY Duratrac
6. AX-15 (replaced the NV3550)
7. 231 / Yes, SYE'd
8. No
9. No
10. 3" spring lift
11. No
Note: I did have an oscillation at 55/60 but it ended when I lifted the Jeep. Hard to say if it was my new wheels, tires, or Woody's DS since it was installed in the same week. My guess would be the drive shaft, as I used to feel what was a shove or slight clunk when slowing down after coming off a highway ramp.
2. N/A
3. 2001 TJ Sport
4. Dana 30 front / 44 rear / 3.73 ratio
5. 33 GY Duratrac
6. AX-15 (replaced the NV3550)
7. 231 / Yes, SYE'd
8. No
9. No
10. 3" spring lift
11. No
Note: I did have an oscillation at 55/60 but it ended when I lifted the Jeep. Hard to say if it was my new wheels, tires, or Woody's DS since it was installed in the same week. My guess would be the drive shaft, as I used to feel what was a shove or slight clunk when slowing down after coming off a highway ramp.
@freedom_in_4low , I corrected answer 2. The answer should be NO, if I remove the front driveshaft I do NOT get vibes. Sorry. Oversight.
The interesting cases are those who still have vibes with the front DS removed or with hubs.
The interesting cases are those who still have vibes with the front DS removed or with hubs.
OP
Thanks!
I can think of a few words more colorful than "interesting", but yes.
If the price of hubs ever becomes reasonable again I'll probably jump on them. Even if they don't solve my issue immediately, I'll eventually need them, and it sure would make diagnosis easier by not having to R&R my front shaft all the time. That was bad enough with the stock skid, now I don't have the little wrench window to get the bottom bolts on the front output yoke.
1. Do you have the oscillating vibration issue and at what speed does it start?
Yes. 60 mph Began immediately after new gears and axles installed.
Ending speed, if any is unknown.
2. Does it persist even with the front driveshaft removed?
N/A
3. Model year and TJ or LJ
2006 Unlimited Rubicon
4. Axles and Gear ratio (and if you have a Rubicon, did you keep thick cut gears or did you get a 3.92+ carrier and go to standard gears?)
Revolution axles. Motive Gear 5.13
5. Tire size
35 x 12.5 x 15 Cooper Evolution.
Centramatics (balancers)
6. transmission
NSG370 6-speed
7. transfer case, and if 231, is it SYE'd
Stock Rubicon NVG241OR
8. stock or aftermarket transfer case skid, and if aftermarket, which skid (please include brand, tuck height, and material)
Nth Degree. Tuck height unknown 1.25". 1.25" BL/MML
9. stock or aftermarket gas tank skid, and if aftermarket, which skid?
Stock skid
10. suspension lift height, if any
5" RE Short arm
11. any other mods that might change the way the frame is constrained, such as a stretch, midarm, rear frame raise, crossmember deletions, spring perch relocations, shock outboard, etc.
Aftermarket driveshafts unknown brand ATT. Shouldn't this be a question?
Yes. 60 mph Began immediately after new gears and axles installed.
Ending speed, if any is unknown.
2. Does it persist even with the front driveshaft removed?
N/A
3. Model year and TJ or LJ
2006 Unlimited Rubicon
4. Axles and Gear ratio (and if you have a Rubicon, did you keep thick cut gears or did you get a 3.92+ carrier and go to standard gears?)
Revolution axles. Motive Gear 5.13
5. Tire size
35 x 12.5 x 15 Cooper Evolution.
Centramatics (balancers)
6. transmission
NSG370 6-speed
7. transfer case, and if 231, is it SYE'd
Stock Rubicon NVG241OR
8. stock or aftermarket transfer case skid, and if aftermarket, which skid (please include brand, tuck height, and material)
Nth Degree. Tuck height unknown 1.25". 1.25" BL/MML
9. stock or aftermarket gas tank skid, and if aftermarket, which skid?
Stock skid
10. suspension lift height, if any
5" RE Short arm
11. any other mods that might change the way the frame is constrained, such as a stretch, midarm, rear frame raise, crossmember deletions, spring perch relocations, shock outboard, etc.
Aftermarket driveshafts unknown brand ATT. Shouldn't this be a question?
I know. The hub kit is an astronomical $1589 on Amazon. I’ve got it on Price Pulse just waiting. I really don’t want to spend money on it at all. I could just drive 66mph and be fine.Thanks!
I can think of a few words more colorful than "interesting", but yes.
If the price of hubs ever becomes reasonable again I'll probably jump on them. Even if they don't solve my issue immediately, I'll eventually need them, and it sure would make diagnosis easier by not having to R&R my front shaft all the time. That was bad enough with the stock skid, now I don't have the little wrench window to get the bottom bolts on the front output yoke.
Getting to the bolts on the front output shaft is a pain, but I can do it. Lots of pain.
I have a bone stock 04 TJ Unlimited that has the harmonic. All it did when I regeared it is move it lower in the MPH range.
OP
Since mine doesn't come on until about 73 I almost never get to it, which is why I've (regrettably) been putting it off for almost a year. But, the times I do get to it is when I'm going somewhere to wheel. The last thing I need is to have $25k+ invested in a vehicle that gets 12mpg and have a reason not to go wheeling.
I feel your pain. I’d prefer to buy PSC steering or Beadlocks.
OP
Next time I do it I'm gonna swap back to stock bolts. The bolts that came with it from TW have a 7/16" head and I can't find a 7/16 ratcheting wrench that will fit around the head and not hit the yoke. So it's like 1/8 of a turn at a time the whole way. Plus I ordered my driveshaft like an inch short so that it wouldn't bottom on full droop, so I have to pull it against the natural position of the boot to seat it at the axle end. It's a bitch.
OP
It complicates my wheel selection, too. I run 5.25" BS with 1.25" spacers for an effective 4". The extra width of the hub kit means I keep the spacers and end up with a bunch of scrub radius I don't want, or ditch them and lose whatever turning radius I lose from pulling the tires 1/4" back in.
Maybe we should form a support group.
I feel like we’ve already had the yoke bolt conversation. Worth the switch to get an 8mm or 5/16” in there
How much length does a hub kit add?
Does it go away at higher speeds? Like with a slightly out of balance tire?
the 5x4.5 kit adds about 3/4" per side. The 5x5.5 kit doesn't add any.