REAL WORLD COMPARISON: OEM Anti-Sway Bar w/ Disconnects vs. Antirock Off-Road Sway Bar vs. SwayLOC Dual Rate Anti Swaybar System
- Thread starter Mr. Bills
- Start date
I love it when a plan comes together.
We have now established that the Antirock and the SwayLOC are both good units, but with different design parameters.
Pick your poison based upon your own wants and needs.
We have now established that the Antirock and the SwayLOC are both good units, but with different design parameters.
Pick your poison based upon your own wants and needs.
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That's not an issue anymore unless you over flex it in the street position.
The air actuated version isn't great from what I've heard.
The issue Jerry is referring to was limited to the first generation SwayLOC. The dates of the posts in the links to other jeep forums found in Post #1 suggest that the issue was remedied 14 years ago.*
The first photo in Post #1 allows a comparison of the Antirock torsion bar and the SwayLOC torsion bar. Both neck down to 0.75" in diameter, they are nearly the same length, and it is my understanding that they are made from the same chromoly steel.
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* The first generation SwayLOC employed a splined torsion bar with a single diameter rather than necked down as the torsion bar is now. In combination with the threaded hole for the retaining bolt this created a stress point that resulted in breakage. The second generation resolved this problem, but not without some well deserved ill feelings held by previous generation customers who could not obtain replacement parts, now "NLA" due to the design change, who were required to pay for an "upgrade kit."
This thread compares the current SwayLOC with the Antirock and stock antisway bar with disconnects. ORO company history deserves its own thread.
The first photo in Post #1 allows a comparison of the Antirock torsion bar and the SwayLOC torsion bar. Both neck down to 0.75" in diameter, they are nearly the same length, and it is my understanding that they are made from the same chromoly steel.
________________________________
* The first generation SwayLOC employed a splined torsion bar with a single diameter rather than necked down as the torsion bar is now. In combination with the threaded hole for the retaining bolt this created a stress point that resulted in breakage. The second generation resolved this problem, but not without some well deserved ill feelings held by previous generation customers who could not obtain replacement parts, now "NLA" due to the design change, who were required to pay for an "upgrade kit."
This thread compares the current SwayLOC with the Antirock and stock antisway bar with disconnects. ORO company history deserves its own thread.
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That is an excellent photo. And yes, in my research, what I found is that after the early hiccups (and some customer service issues), the design was updated and it became a very good product after that.
What is it that you have heard about the air actuated version that isn't great?
Now I did manage to break the air cylinder once and neither Steve from ORO or myself could figure out how I managed to break it. But this was the only time I have had any issues with it. And I've had mud caked on the arms before and never had any locking or unlocking issues.
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I was just told not to buy it from someone familiar with the product. I don't think I asked why at the time or I don't remember.
Interesting read. I am literally going out to install a AR right now.
I am running FOX LSC's (11") tuned by Mr. Coplin in the front. 12" LSC's in the rear. It is a trailer queen. I have not "seen" a swaylok on the trails I run, but lots of AR's. Am I going to be "happy"?
I am running FOX LSC's (11") tuned by Mr. Coplin in the front. 12" LSC's in the rear. It is a trailer queen. I have not "seen" a swaylok on the trails I run, but lots of AR's. Am I going to be "happy"?
I did a bunch of unpaved, light trail stuff today and have some observations. Is the torsion bar considered a progressive rate?
It should essentially be a linear rate, as it is just a cylinder. At very high deflection angles, the angles of the link to the arm may begin to have an effect on overall effective force applied, but the effect isn't likely noticeable at lower angles.
This isn't really the same type of product, but it may give you an idea on the difficulty of creating a progressive torsion bar:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torsion_bar_suspension
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Talking to Blaine about it, the torsion bar is linear. Think of it as a force unit per degree of twist. Just like a linear rate spring, the force to twist or compress will stack up as the movement increases.
The point here is what I observed today on the washboard roads I was driving on. My old memories of the factory front sway bar is that a similar road would have had me disconnecting for the sake of comfort. One thing I enjoyed about the Antirock was that it's softer rates made these roads far more bearable. The Antirock also made the rough city streets I drive everyday more pleasant.
A concern I had with the SwayLOC is that the harshness of the stock bar could return when using it's street setting. This has not been the case. Today on the washboard roads, I expected to stop and switch the SwayLOC to its soft rate for the sake of comfort. Upon doing so, I noticed that the road really hadn't been as jittery as I expected and switching to the softer rate wasn't a big change.
My observation is that even though the SwayLOC is stiffer than stock on the street setting, it's initial range of motion is soft enough to still make rough roads more comfortable than stock. This is likely due to the longer arms providing greater leverage against the torsion bar and tube followed by a rapid increase in resistance that quickly exceeds the factory front sway bar.
The end result is that the SwayLOC is everything we like about the Antirock combined with something that performs better than the factory sway bar.
The point here is what I observed today on the washboard roads I was driving on. My old memories of the factory front sway bar is that a similar road would have had me disconnecting for the sake of comfort. One thing I enjoyed about the Antirock was that it's softer rates made these roads far more bearable. The Antirock also made the rough city streets I drive everyday more pleasant.
A concern I had with the SwayLOC is that the harshness of the stock bar could return when using it's street setting. This has not been the case. Today on the washboard roads, I expected to stop and switch the SwayLOC to its soft rate for the sake of comfort. Upon doing so, I noticed that the road really hadn't been as jittery as I expected and switching to the softer rate wasn't a big change.
My observation is that even though the SwayLOC is stiffer than stock on the street setting, it's initial range of motion is soft enough to still make rough roads more comfortable than stock. This is likely due to the longer arms providing greater leverage against the torsion bar and tube followed by a rapid increase in resistance that quickly exceeds the factory front sway bar.
The end result is that the SwayLOC is everything we like about the Antirock combined with something that performs better than the factory sway bar.
I spent about an hour removing the old swaybar and disco hardware. I managed to get the bushings in and the torsion bar installed and the arms "leveled". Looks like a winner.
Two things no one has mentioned that are big pros,
1) It looks cool
2) 2 stickers included
Two things no one has mentioned that are big pros,
1) It looks cool
2) 2 stickers included
OK,
Since I have the AiRock and it also controls the SwayLoc so I don't have to get out and disconnect it. Granted I still have to get out and lock the hubs in but I was running slugs for a while so I didn't have slugs at the time. When you go to Off-Road mode with the AiRock it disconnects the SwayLoc or you can unlock it at other times also by pushing a button.
I know @DrDmoney has the air disconnect also. If you have a OBA already it isn't much more to add the cylinder.
But I'm glad they came out with the manual lock also for those who don't have OBA or don't want that option.
Great write up @Mr. Bills , I too have been through all three sway bars. I really liked the off road ability of the AR but Daily driving through the American River Canyon was less fun with the additional body roll it allowed so I switched to Sway-Loc, it is amazing the difference and the similarity. Off road I could not tell the difference between the SL and the AR but start down a twisting turning canyon road in off road mode, which is the same performance of the AR, and switch on the fly (I have the air actuated) and you will be convinced. I’ve said it before, like having your cake and eating it too.
That's to keep it out of the tires when turning and to prevent the links from flipping the arm around at droop. If he's not having those issues, level is fine.
Level at the mid point of the suspension travel.