Rock Sliders / Rocker Guards Guide

mrblaine said:
Put another way, they revert back closer to the original design that GR did for me on the Viking rig, the first set of which is on it.
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WAIT a freaking second!! Did you build this rig, it’s for sale right near me.

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jjvw said:
Compared to a normal rock slider, the mini boatside increases the ground clearance of the body by removing the corner under the door.
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The mini boatside we built is very similar to the GenRight mini boatside, except that ours does not have the giant tube step to get in the way of the rocks. The other way ours is nicer than most is that I copied what Blaine designed for Savvy by adding the slight over-bend and the slight secret bend under the door to force a tight fit onto the body.

Another detail that is missing from the BFH video would be the use of a large aluminum backer plate inside the door opening intended to sandwich the body sheet metal between the slider and the backer to create a tight unitized structure.

The idea behind these mini boatsides was to take the GenRight mini boatside, remove their clutter, and add in as many Blaine details as we could.

This was the inspiration from one of Blaine's builds a few years ago.
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Have you built a the mini boatsides yet? This one is working its way up the list for me.
 
I noticed on the diy mini boat sides you tied in the side to the bottom with a gusset infront of the fender (assuming you did it in the rear too). Would you still do this with a fender that has a flare that runs all the way down like a genright and just tie in as much as possible even if it’s just a few inches? Would that be worth the strength? Also with a backing plate is just a single sheet of 3/16 good enough or do people run angle iron to get the other rib for some strength too?
I happen to get cavfabs garage sale sliders that they used for their photos for the website for 100 bucks (already color matched). So I want to make use of anything else that wasn’t already said like adding more riv nut tie ins on the torque box.
 
The4bangertj said:
I noticed on the diy mini boat sides you tied in the side to the bottom with a gusset infront of the fender (assuming you did it in the rear too). Would you still do this with a fender that has a flare that runs all the way down like a genright and just tie in as much as possible even if it’s just a few inches? Would that be worth the strength? Also with a backing plate is just a single sheet of 3/16 good enough or do people run angle iron to get the other rib for some strength too?
I happen to get cavfabs garage sale sliders that they used for their photos for the website for 100 bucks (already color matched). So I want to make use of anything else that wasn’t already said like adding more riv nut tie ins on the torque box.
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My flares extended to the bottom of the tub, with a mini boat side they needed to be raised. I added a gusset plate in the front as high up as I could, and covered the gap between the inner fender and slider.
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The4bangertj said:
I noticed on the diy mini boat sides you tied in the side to the bottom with a gusset infront of the fender (assuming you did it in the rear too). Would you still do this with a fender that has a flare that runs all the way down like a genright and just tie in as much as possible even if it’s just a few inches? Would that be worth the strength? Also with a backing plate is just a single sheet of 3/16 good enough or do people run angle iron to get the other rib for some strength too?
I happen to get cavfabs garage sale sliders that they used for their photos for the website for 100 bucks (already color matched). So I want to make use of anything else that wasn’t already said like adding more riv nut tie ins on the torque box.
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I don't do it for the strength, I do it to hide the ugly gap at the end of the boatside and slow down how much mud gets slung in there.
 
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The4bangertj said:
I noticed on the diy mini boat sides you tied in the side to the bottom with a gusset infront of the fender (assuming you did it in the rear too). Would you still do this with a fender that has a flare that runs all the way down like a genright and just tie in as much as possible even if it’s just a few inches? Would that be worth the strength? Also with a backing plate is just a single sheet of 3/16 good enough or do people run angle iron to get the other rib for some strength too?
I happen to get cavfabs garage sale sliders that they used for their photos for the website for 100 bucks (already color matched). So I want to make use of anything else that wasn’t already said like adding more riv nut tie ins on the torque box.
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I just finished installing my CavFabs and while I like the design, they are about 4.5" short of the front wheel well. My OCD is telling me I need to buy some 3/16 steel sheet and weld on some extensions.

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What is everyone preferred diy backing plate? I believe the savvy runs a close to 25in long by 3in wide 3/8 aluminum flat bar but noticed they run 2 bolts ( a top and bottom) across. Would this still be the preferred way for a cavfab that runs a single row across? I’d also assume that a piece of angle iron wouldn’t be recommended bc the goal is to cover as much sheet metal rather than an angle iron that’s skinner but I’d assume pretty ridged.
 
Mine were 4' tall by 28" long with a slight angle to match a seam inside. I was able to use 4 of the screws across the foot well.
 
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Brianj5600 said:
Probably made t


Probably made like that for their fenders.
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Oh no doubt. I did ask them twice if they would leave the sliders long enough to go ww2ww and their response was "We are not taking custom orders at this time". That was before I know just how short they were. Still hard to beat for the price and I might try to weld on extensions for the extra protection and challenge of the project.
 
OK, maybe an odd question. But I am interested in understanding from the experts (and I think there are many on here) some information about the properties of aluminium versus steel. I have been following @Fluxor thread with great interest, particularly his sliders, as I have been toying with getting something fabricated myself. Don't get me wrong if it wasn't for shipping costs and import taxes I would buy his in a flash, but I'm in the UK so that is not really an economically viable option.

I like the approach of a backer with a rash guard as that has the potential to save weight and put the greatest strength where it is most needed. But the bend radius on aluminium means I struggle with working out how to get a great profile, so I am thinking maybe a steel and steel approach. I think I know the rough weight comparison for a like-for-like size comparison (i.e. steel is 2.5 times the weight of aluminium), but I don't know what the strength comparison is. I'm guessing the technicalities of this will just go over my head, so a, hopefully, simple question. How thick would steel need to be to achieve the same level of protection as 3/16" 6061T6 aluminium in a slider?

Many thanks in advance for any input.
 
It just has to be strong enough for your application. If you are going to build a steel rocker, I would think sticking to the single layer would work fine. Many people have been running that style in many areas with out issue

.1875" Steel plate bent with .25" Bend radius with the same three bends as the aluminum base plate. Keep the "kink" or 2 degree bend under the door jamb to help hide and sheet metal gaps and then two bends with the bottom resting on your tub torque box. If your willing to drill all your holes I would make them a little wider and longer then you think you need and trim to fit. Once you like the fitment lay out your holes. Time spent with a combination square making some good drawings should yield decent results.
 
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