Only thing getting cloaked isyoursomeone else's judgment about spending money on stuff that doesn't work
FIFY.
Shock questions for rear outboard and front relocation
- Thread starter RockyTopTJ
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- dsc fox fox 2.0 outboarding shocks
FIFY.
Word on the street is Metalcloak fenders give you more uptravel....
When building shock mounts with any attempt at doing a decent job requires a lot of cycling of the axles. The process can't help but show where the clearances are. Where Metalcloak fenders create room over factory and if the project needs to use it, you will know early on.
I’ll just emphasize your comment on cycling the axles! So much damn cycling!
The Jeep world would be a better place if more people cycled their axles.
I can't help but feel like this is a metaphor.
I have big plans for my TJ in the near future, and axle cycling will very much be part of the process.
Still not in a position to outboard yet but am curious on shock vs axle/wheel travel afterwards. After making my tummy tuck I've messed with the rear end and realized I'll definitely need an SSSYE, the rear driveshaft is almost binding at full droop and I currently have ranchos and Currie springs with ~6" of up travel on the shock. My question is with 12" outboarded shocks are you increasing any axle/wheel travel or where changing the positioning of them is just giving you more shock length to utilize for the same axles/wheel travel as stock mounts? @jjvw I'm sure you understand what I mean
How much downtravel? There is a very real possibility that you will bind your driveshaft at full droop with a balanced 12" shock in the rear. Uptravel shouldn't bind it (unless the driveshaft is too long). I believe @jjvw is running a limit strap in the center of his axle to combat the driveshaft bind at droop.
The simple answer is to understand how shocks work relative to travel. Simple numbers, if you take an 8" travel shock and then build the same shock with 9" of travel, the body has to be longer for the shaft to travel fully. The limit for the rear shock mounts is how high you can move the top of the shock before it goes through the bottom of the tub. So, if you take the 9" travel shock and make it again longer, it will eventually get to the point where the body of the shock is resting against the shock eye because you haven't been able to move the top of the shock upward.
You have to move the top of the shock up to get back to a reasonable bias. Since we also like the bottom of the shock to be a bit higher and up out of the rocks, we move the lower up which again, moves the top up to maintain bias.
About 3.5" of shock down left. I already need the SSSYE, I bought the jeep with a regular SSYE so not really any "wasted" money per se.
Yes I understand the bias, I'm moreso curious of the way the angle of the shock changes and if that correlates to more total axle travel than with say the 9.6" ranchos in stock positions. My thought is from say take a 12" travel shock and mount it vertically from the axle, you will have more vertical/even droop than if the same shocks were angled at 30° inwards.
Not sure where you're trying to get to. Even if, why would you mount a shock at 30 degrees inward at the top?
Basically with going to 12" travel shocks from rancho 9.6" am I adding 2.4" of total axle travel, up and/or down? And I'm not sure, but I know outboarding requires a bit of angle inward at the top, and was figuring on it not adding the complete 2.4" because of that. How much it differs is what I was wondering.
The small bit of inward lean is negated under articulation by the lower mount being inboard of the tire so when that side droops, the lower mount moves under the top shock eye with the shock straight up and down.
Change in full axle travel since when not articulated and just straight dropped, the shock remains angled inward
Mine has a center limit strap to prevent driveshaft bind at about the last 3/4" of droop. The was just above the point where spinning a tire stopped turning the driveshaft and tcase via the parasitic draw through differential.
Rubicon with the Savvy TT. Mine had no slip yoke to eliminate.
Definitely get a set of shocks tuned if you can (and by a good tuner!). I had my 12" RR 2.0s tuned. I told the tuner what my jeep weighed, mods I had, what I used it for and they came back perfect. My jeep is light at 4,060 pounds.
Off road, the rear feels very controlled. Crawling over rocks/boulders, same thing, very controlled. The rear stays planted and firm whereas the front (ranchos) I can feel the jeep wobble/bounce as I am climbing obstacles. Under torque, I can feel the front lift. The rear seems to stay stable and does not dip down as much as it did before. A lot of the smaller, jarring events (like washboard surfaces), tar strips, rumble strips, cracked pavement) are absorbed well that they are nearly unnoticeable and I can stay in control. The rear doesnt begin to float to one side or the other as I noticed with prior shocks. I was on a fast, winding trail and the rear tires of my jeep lifted off the ground after hitting a large water bar. The landing was soft that I didn't even notice until @jjvw told me. Even after extended high-speed runs on bumpy roads, the reservoirs stay cool to the touch.
Driving on the hwy, Larger bumps, like speed bumps, are fun to hit at full speed now. I am not bottoming out. The rear just floats up and returns to normal without harshness or crashing.
My rears are set up about 7" up and 5" of down travel.
Off road, the rear feels very controlled. Crawling over rocks/boulders, same thing, very controlled. The rear stays planted and firm whereas the front (ranchos) I can feel the jeep wobble/bounce as I am climbing obstacles. Under torque, I can feel the front lift. The rear seems to stay stable and does not dip down as much as it did before. A lot of the smaller, jarring events (like washboard surfaces), tar strips, rumble strips, cracked pavement) are absorbed well that they are nearly unnoticeable and I can stay in control. The rear doesnt begin to float to one side or the other as I noticed with prior shocks. I was on a fast, winding trail and the rear tires of my jeep lifted off the ground after hitting a large water bar. The landing was soft that I didn't even notice until @jjvw told me. Even after extended high-speed runs on bumpy roads, the reservoirs stay cool to the touch.
Driving on the hwy, Larger bumps, like speed bumps, are fun to hit at full speed now. I am not bottoming out. The rear just floats up and returns to normal without harshness or crashing.
My rears are set up about 7" up and 5" of down travel.
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