So you want to run 35" tires on your TJ?

I just got a 4.0 with automatic it has 4in lift with 35s but 3.05 gears it really hates the 35s and previous owner also welded the rear gears but he gave me 2 8.8 rears one with 4.11 gears drum brakes and one with 3.55 disc breaks to make a disc break 4.11 and kit to put the 8.8 in my thing is if i have to buy gears for the front are 4.11 really enough i was thinking 4.56 gears and just build the 30 and 35 it will be on highway and dirt roads hit some mud holes in it and hunt out of it no rock climbing but some slick ass red clay gumbo and post oak mud
So if i remember correctly with your automatic transmission (32RH by the way) 4.56 should be the correct gearing. If i was in your position I would do a gear swap on the disc brake equipped 8.8 and swap that in. I wouldnt bother building up the Dana 35 since you already have the 8.8. Sell the other two extra 8.8's off to help recoup some of your cash when its all said and done! Hope this help's.
 
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I just got a 4.0 with automatic (what year or transmission?) it has 4in lift with 35s. It has 3.05 gears and it really hates the 35s.

Previous owner didnt do any real research and welded the rear gears.
He gave me 2 Ford 8.8 rears, one with 4.11 gears and drum brakes, and one with 3.55 gearing and disc brakes. Disc kit is with 3.55 gearing for the 8.8.

If i have to buy 4.11 gears for the front to match possible 4.11 gesring in the 8.8 axle, i was thinking 4.56 gears instead front - rear, and just build the 30 and 35.

It will be on highway and dirt roads, hit some mud holes, and hunt. I will not be rock climbing, occasionally some slick ass red clay and post oak mud.




Instead of making a smart ass comment, I decided to see if anyone can help answer your question. Welcome to the board.
Thank you
 
So if i remember correctly with your automatic transmission (32RH by the way) 4.56 should be the correct gearing. If i was in your position I would do a gear swap on the disc brake equipped 8.8 and swap that in. I wouldnt bother building up the Dana 35 since you already have the 8.8. Sell the other two extra 8.8's off to help recoup some of your cash when its all said and done! Hope this help's.
Thank you
 
@Chris
Hi mate I've got a couple questions about 35s.
I can't legally drive them on road where I'm from, so I'll be running 31's daily and lugging my 35s with me to the off road parks and things. Also, can't exceed 4 inches of lift.
Considering I will only be using my 35s off-road, would you recommend i still re-gear, upgrade steering and brakes? I go off-road about once a month and love doing hard tracks and this will be the only time I have the 35s on my Jeep. Cheers mate
 
@Chris
Hi mate I've got a couple questions about 35s.
I can't legally drive them on road where I'm from, so I'll be running 31's daily and lugging my 35s with me to the off road parks and things. Also, can't exceed 4 inches of lift.
Considering I will only be using my 35s off-road, would you recommend i still re-gear, upgrade steering and brakes? I go off-road about once a month and love doing hard tracks and this will be the only time I have the 35s on my Jeep. Cheers mate

The re-gear won't be as big of a deal since you'll only be using them temporarily off-road. However, upgrading the brakes is something I wouldn't skip on, even off-road. You'll find you really need the bigger brakes to stop, especially when going down hills in 4LO. The stock steering can get by on 35s as well, so you don't need to change it out, unless you start breaking things.
 
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Chris,

I am new to this group and fairly new to Jeep ownership. I've had my 2002 Wrangler X for a little over a year, when I bought it I looked at the frame and although it had some rust and scaling on the inside it sounded solid. Fast forward a year later and now the frame has two large holes in it where these all rust. Do you think it is worth getting a new frame or just fixing the current frame? Changing the frame is certainly a lot more work which I will do so it doesn't bother me but fixing the frame is much faster, less work but about the same price as the new frame.

I was planning to sell the Jeep but don't feel comfortable with doing so with the frame in it's current condition. I was looking for a project car to build and was looking at hot rods but now I'm thinking of rebuilding the Jeep from the ground up. I found a good frame with no rot and was thinking I would put a bigger lift on it and move from 31" tires to 35"s so your post is very helpful. Your detail confirmed that I can use the stock axle housings and just upgrade the axles, I already upgraded the steering to HD linkage and I have an adjustable track bar. I will definitely move to a SYE for sure, I do prefer to do things right the first time. I did not upgrade to a larger brake system but I did replace the rotors with drilled rotors, replaced the calipers, wheel cylinders, drums and brake pads/shoes all around as well as all new brake lines. Although I don't plan to off road with it frequently I do want the option on occasion.

I was told the Jeep had a 4" lift on it when I bought it but I'm not sure what the stock height of the Wrangler X actually is from the factory, I found some information that lead me to believe that the X is higher than other models from the factory. Since I would like to go higher to fit the 35"s I am not sure what size lift to go with. I was thinking of a small body lift and a 6" suspension lift but wonder if that would be too high. I was also thinking of going with 65" wide axle housings to widen the footprint for more stability but I'm not sure if that is needed. With the 31's on the jeep it barely keeps up the speed on the highways by me with small gradual hills. I am not sure how to determine the correct gear size to use with the 35's, I noticed someone mentioned running 4.88's with a 5 speed and 35's for both highway and off road. Also wondering if I should invest in a locker as well.

Currently in the planning stage trying to educate myself. I will search for some other threads too but any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.
 
Chris,

I am new to this group and fairly new to Jeep ownership. I've had my 2002 Wrangler X for a little over a year, when I bought it I looked at the frame and although it had some rust and scaling on the inside it sounded solid. Fast forward a year later and now the frame has two large holes in it where these all rust. Do you think it is worth getting a new frame or just fixing the current frame? Changing the frame is certainly a lot more work which I will do so it doesn't bother me but fixing the frame is much faster, less work but about the same price as the new frame.

I was planning to sell the Jeep but don't feel comfortable with doing so with the frame in it's current condition. I was looking for a project car to build and was looking at hot rods but now I'm thinking of rebuilding the Jeep from the ground up. I found a good frame with no rot and was thinking I would put a bigger lift on it and move from 31" tires to 35"s so your post is very helpful. Your detail confirmed that I can use the stock axle housings and just upgrade the axles, I already upgraded the steering to HD linkage and I have an adjustable track bar. I will definitely move to a SYE for sure, I do prefer to do things right the first time. I did not upgrade to a larger brake system but I did replace the rotors with drilled rotors, replaced the calipers, wheel cylinders, drums and brake pads/shoes all around as well as all new brake lines. Although I don't plan to off road with it frequently I do want the option on occasion.

I was told the Jeep had a 4" lift on it when I bought it but I'm not sure what the stock height of the Wrangler X actually is from the factory, I found some information that lead me to believe that the X is higher than other models from the factory. Since I would like to go higher to fit the 35"s I am not sure what size lift to go with. I was thinking of a small body lift and a 6" suspension lift but wonder if that would be too high. I was also thinking of going with 65" wide axle housings to widen the footprint for more stability but I'm not sure if that is needed. With the 31's on the jeep it barely keeps up the speed on the highways by me with small gradual hills. I am not sure how to determine the correct gear size to use with the 35's, I noticed someone mentioned running 4.88's with a 5 speed and 35's for both highway and off road. Also wondering if I should invest in a locker as well.

Currently in the planning stage trying to educate myself. I will search for some other threads too but any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.

I would have to see photos of the frame to determine its overall condition. Often times you can cut a section out of the frame and replace it with a new section. However, in order to do that, you need good, rust free metal to weld the new section onto. If the frame is entirely rotted inside (which it very well may be), then buying a rust free frame and swapping it in would be the better option.

The drilled rotors don't do anything on a TJ, period. That's a common myth / misconception, but they don't provide any stopping power whatsoever. For running 35s you really want a Vanco big brake kit. Running 35s on stock brakes is dangerous, both on-road and off-road. You won't know it until you really need to use the brakes, then you'll understand what I mean.

6" suspension lift is too much. To run 35s you want 4" of suspension lift and 1.25" of body lift. That is the ideal recipe. Anymore than that and it's unnecessary. Switching to wider axle housings is also unnecessary unless you're going to be running 37s, coilovers, stretching the wheelbase, and have A LOT of money (no joke).

For determining what gears you should run, see this thread:

What gear ratio should I install in my Jeep Wrangler TJ / LJ? (and other re-gearing FAQs)

Lockers would be a wise investment at the same time as the re-gear / upgraded axle shaft install.
 
The re-gear won't be as big of a deal since you'll only be using them temporarily off-road. However, upgrading the brakes is something I wouldn't skip on, even off-road. You'll find you really need the bigger brakes to stop, especially when going down hills in 4LO. The stock steering can get by on 35s as well, so you don't need to change it out, unless you start breaking things.
thanks for getting back to me mate. Will black magic brake pads suffice in this instance?
 
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I have some questions about drive shafts for a 4" lift with Tummy Tuck. Was planning on buying Tom Woods shafts. 1) Can I order them before I get started or do I need to wait and do the measurements? 2) Do I need front and back?
 
I have some questions about drive shafts for a 4" lift with Tummy Tuck. Was planning on buying Tom Woods shafts. 1) Can I order them before I get started or do I need to wait and do the measurements? 2) Do I need front and back?

You can, but it’s highly advisable to wait until after it’s all done and then take the measurements.
 
Tom Woods was able to guesstimate my DS length after I was lifted but before I installed the SYE. But given the variance in tummy tucks out there, I am not sure they will be able to guesstimate that. you would be best off getting it all installed and then ordering. They manufacture and ship quick! From what I remember opting for 2 day shipping wasn't too ridiculous as well.
 
I too am in the market for a set of rears for my Dana 44 and was looking at these.
What is the difference between 4340 (Yukon) and 4140 (Revo) as far as the steel goes?
 
I am planning out my TJ build and would like to run 35" tires on stock gambler wheels (just love those wheels).

I am planning on new Currie 44 front and 60 rear axles, but it looks like they only come in stock 60.5".

Will this require spacers? Am I better off getting 63.5" axles from ECGS if I want to keep the gamblers?
 
I felt this thread was necessary at this point. We see a lot of people on the forum who insist on running 35" tires, but probably don't know how to do it properly, or what's required (other than just the tires and lift).

For anyone considering adding 35" tires to their TJ, first take into consideration that this is no small feat. You're going to need at minimum several thousand dollars set aside. Sure, there's ways to do it on the cheap, but if you plan on off-roading your TJ at all, you'll want to do it right.

I'm going to give you a run down of what you'll need to properly run 35" tires:


Lift Kit (5" to 6" of lift)
This can be done with all suspension lift, or a combination of something like 4" of suspension lift and 1" of body lift. I prefer the latter because that body lift will allow you to tuck your transfer case (tummy tuck), which is highly desirably in off-road situations. For a good quality lift (i.e. Currie, Metalcloak, etc.) you should be prepared to spend around $3000. For a lesser quality lift (i.e. Rough Country, Skyjacker, etc.), you'll probably spend around $1500 (but you'll be getting a subpar quality lift).


LCG Lift
Alternatively, if you want a low center of gravity (LCG) lift, you can go with a 2" to 3" lift, tubed or highline fenders, and trim the tub. This will easily fit 35" tires while giving you that low center of gravity. For the record though, I think the whole "LCG" thing is complete bullshit.


Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE) & Double Cardan (CV) Drive Shaft
You'll definitely need a slip yoke eliminator and double cardan driveshaft. The only exception will be if you have a Rubicon model. Then you'll only need the double cardan driveshaft. Be prepared to spend around $900+ for everything, not including labor. For more information on SYEs, check out this thread: The Official SYE (Slip Yoke Eliminator) Thread


Wheels & Tires
Due to the most common width of 12.50 on 35” tires. Stock Jeep wheels won’t work well. You’ll want an 8” wide wheel with 4” of back spacing of less.

Figure that you'll spend around $600 (more if you buy premium wheels) on a new set of 5 wheels (don't forget the spare), and $1500 on a new set of 35" tires. So roughly $2100 for wheels and tires (35" tires aren't cheap!).


Stock TJ Axles
A stock Dana 35 rear axle can actually be built to be very durable. For proof of that, and to read more on the subject, check this thread out: Should I upgrade my Dana 35 axle?

A stock Dana 30 front axle can be made to last with chromoly shafts. There's a lot of guys out there running Dana 30 front axles with 35" tires who haven't had any issues.


Stock TJ Rubicon Axles
A stock Dana 44 rear axle will be more up to the task of running 35" tires than a Dana 35. However, the stock axle shafts will still be the weak point. If you upgrade them to a high quality chromoly axle shaft (i.e. Revolution Chromoly Axle Shafts) you shouldn't have any issues at all.

A stock Dana 44 front axle, being a hybrid Dana 44 / Dana 30 presents some other issues. It has 30 spline inner shafts. But the U-joints, outer shafts and unit bearings are all Dana 30. So that makes the outer shaft a 27 spline. At one time Alloy USA was selling a 30 spline unit bearing and outer shaft for the 30 and 44. Hopefully this will return to the market. As always chromoly shafts will help. The Dana 44 front axle is still a low pinion design and under severe strain can have similar failures to the low pinion Dana 30.


Gears
If you're running 35" tires, you'll undoubtedly want to re-gear. You can expect to pay on average $650 for a set of gears, plus $800 for labor (seems to be the going rate). Once it's all said and done, you'll have spent roughly $1450+ to re-gear. If you don't re-gear, your TJ is going to feel like an absolute dog (especially on a huge tire like 35") to drive (yes, it's really that bad).


Steering
Stock steering components are weak. Upgrade the steering to a heavy duty drag link and tie rod at least. My suggestion is upgrading to a Currie Currectlync, which is by far the best bolt-on steering kit available for the TJ. Another option for more budget minded folks is the ZJ tie rod conversion. Either way, if you plan on off-roading, you'll want to upgrade the steering since the size of the 35" tires will definitely add more stress to your steering. To upgrade your steering you'll spend anywhere from $150 to $550 give-or-take.


Brakes
At 35" you'll need to know that your stock brakes simply aren't going to cut it, especially for use on-road. Hands down, the best thing you can do when you run 35" tires is to get the Vanco big brake kit. This is worth every penny. You could also just run Black Magic brake pads, but it's not going to be as good as the big brake kit upgrade. A Vanco big brake kit will run you around $1100 to $1400 depending, but I know that Blaine will give you a deal if you mention you're from the forum. If you'd like to read a real world review of the Vanco big brake kit, check out my thread here: My Review of the Vanco 16" Big Brake Kit


Conclusion
Once it's all said and done, to properly run 35" tires, you're going to easily spend upwards of $7000 (that's not an exaggeration either). Yes, it can be done for much cheaper, there's no arguing that. However, if you do it cheaper, you'll end up in one of those situations where you find yourself wishing you'd done it right the first time.

If all you're after is looks and have no desire to off-road at all, then yeah, you'd be safe doing it on the cheap. However, if you plan on off-roading it at all, save up the money and do it right the first time.
I'm ordering a new set of 35's and was hoping to get advice on wheel width. I currently have 35's on 15x12.5in wheels and am going to go up to 17in. Should I stick with 12.5in width? What's most common for 17in?
 
I'm ordering a new set of 35's and was hoping to get advice on wheel width. I currently have 35's on 15x12.5in wheels and am going to go up to 17in. Should I stick with 12.5in width? What's most common for 17in?

12.5" is the most common wheel width for a 35" tire and is what I would recommend sticking with.