Steering box bolt broke

Tjrubicon

Something clever
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So I saw one of the bolts on my steering box was not fully tightened and it snapped when I gave it a turn. I even sprayed Kroil oil on it hours before I I tried to tighten it. Any idea what bolt I need and where I can find a replacement once I drill this one out. It’s the rear most bolt.
Thanks.
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Blaine is the man he sent me a replacement grade 8 when all I could find was sketchy chinese replacements. When it came to removing it though it was a chore.

Mine did the same thing - tried to loosen it, instantly broke the head off.

I think what did it for me was drilling it out until there was basically a thin cylinder of metal left of the bolt in the sleeve (the bracket welded to the frame isn't threaded), you're gonna need the cryo cobalt drill bits to get through that, and then using an air hammer too finally drive it out when it could flex enough to break whatever the heck as binding it. If you have space and a big boi arm you probably don't need the air hammer.
 
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I think it's 3/8" x 5" coarse thread. You should be able to buy it at almost any hardware store. To verify you can pull one of the others and bring it with you. You'll probably have to drop the box to get the broken piece out anyway.
 
I think it's 3/8" x 5" coarse thread. You should be able to buy it at almost any hardware store. To verify you can pull one of the others and bring it with you. You'll probably have to drop the box to get the broken piece out anyway.
The problem is if you don't get one with the same shoulder it's gonna screw up the sleeve in the bracket. At least that was my thinking. You can find them on Qtec and Amazon but I couldn't find any that were Grade 8
 
The problem is if you don't get one with the same shoulder it's gonna screw up the sleeve in the bracket. At least that was my thinking. You can find them on Qtec and Amazon but I couldn't find any that were Grade 8
I've replaced mine and I know others that replaced them after breaking one with standard grade 8 bolts and never had a problem.
 
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Blaine is the man he sent me a replacement grade 8 when all I could find was sketchy chinese replacements. When it came to removing it though it was a chore.

Mine did the same thing - tried to loosen it, instantly broke the head off.

I think what did it for me was drilling it out until there was basically a thin cylinder of metal left of the bolt in the sleeve (the bracket welded to the frame isn't threaded), you're gonna need the cryo cobalt drill bits to get through that, and then using an air hammer too finally drive it out when it could flex enough to break whatever the heck as binding it. If you have space and a big boi arm you probably don't need the air hammer.
Thank you for the information. I’m still thinking of a game plan. I think this is what I’ll have to do. Ive never had one break off this deep in a sleeve. Not excited about it.
 
I think it's 3/8" x 5" coarse thread. You should be able to buy it at almost any hardware store. To verify you can pull one of the others and bring it with you. You'll probably have to drop the box to get the broken piece out anyway.
Thank you for your help.
 
The problem is if you don't get one with the same shoulder it's gonna screw up the sleeve in the bracket. At least that was my thinking. You can find them on Qtec and Amazon but I couldn't find any that were Grade 8
The clamping force of the bolt should keep the bolt from moving around in the sleeve. If the bolt is moving in there it is not tight or you have other issues.
 
I think it's 3/8" x 5" coarse thread. You should be able to buy it at almost any hardware store. To verify you can pull one of the others and bring it with you. You'll probably have to drop the box to get the broken piece out anyway.
The thread is 7/16-14. The issue with off the shelf bolts is the length versus unthreaded shank. If you get a bolt long enough, it has too much unthreaded shank and the threads bottom out.
 
Thank you for the information. I’m still thinking of a game plan. I think this is what I’ll have to do. Ive never had one break off this deep in a sleeve. Not excited about it.
The best thing to do is pull the box. Depending on where it broke, you may be able to grind the frame side of the bolt clean, warm it, and then use vise grips to thread it out the other side. The issue is likely that the threads sticking through are too rusted to come back the way they went in, so take the piece out the other way. If nothing else, it will give you an easier way to drill out the middle of the bolt.

I have a few good used OEM bolts if you want to pay shipping for one or maybe two.
 
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The best thing to do is pull the box. Depending on where it broke, you may be able to grind the frame side of the bolt clean, warm it, and then use vise grips to thread it out the other side. The issue is likely that the threads sticking through are too rusted to come back the way they went in, so take the piece out the other way. If nothing else, it will give you an easier way to drill out the middle of the bolt.

I have a few good used OEM bolts if you want to pay shipping for one or maybe two.
Thank you. I’m gonna go this route. It’s broken off deep in there. Basically where the threads begin on the bolt.
I would like to buy an OEM bolt from you. 2 if you can.
How can I go about paying for this and shipping to Arkansas.
 
The thread is 7/16-14. The issue with off the shelf bolts is the length versus unthreaded shank. If you get a bolt long enough, it has too much unthreaded shank and the threads bottom out.
It's close but if you use a thick washer it works. At least it did on mine and a couple others I know.
 
Prior to removing the one steering box bolt to mount the steering box skid plate; I generously sprayed the bolt head and between the frame rail and steering box with Kroil several days earlier and let it creep into the threads and around the bolt.
When I started to remove the steering box bolt I turned the bolt slightly CW and then slightly CCW repeating this process until the bolt started to move and then sprayed a little more Kroil; this process usually works for me...
 
Prior to removing the one steering box bolt to mount the steering box skid plate; I generously sprayed the bolt head and between the frame rail and steering box with Kroil several days earlier and let it creep into the threads and around the bolt.
When I started to remove the steering box bolt I turned the bolt slightly CW and then slightly CCW repeating this process until the bolt started to move and then sprayed a little more Kroil; this process usually works for me...
I’ve kroil on all the bolts now before I start to try to remove any. Will probably let it soak until tomorrow. I definitely do not want to break another. I’ve been fortunate to never have one break in past. Not something I want to mess it.