Steering Issues with High Steer

Nice

One of the first mods I did to my daughters TJ was a new shift knob.

It always struck me as a silly mod when I bought cars that someone had changed out the knob. But I’ve got to admit that I prefer using the pool ball over the stock gear shifter. Next up is a new rear bumper.


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So how goes the saga of your high steer? Did you get the parts? Did it help any? Looking forward to hearing how it is going.
 
New TRE arrives tomorrow. Had an oops while shortening the drag link. Had to cut off TRE and order a new one. Will update as soon as it’s driving. BTW, nice shifter knob. I like the gear pattern cut in.

Spent tonight on tcase/transmission skid. I got most of the way finished cutting out the flat belly pan. Just need to weld on lips tomorrow.
 
It was the first part I bought for her Jeep. The stock one was shot and the shifter pattern missing. Being a new driver she needed that help plus as you said it just feels better in your hand.

I've done the OOPS thing before on my steering. I have new linkage and TRE's right now waiting for me to figure mine out.
 
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I got used to what she did through the dips, but I’d rather have it run smooth than “it’s a Jeep thing”.
 
I ran it up and down the road a bit. No bump steer through any of the dips. I need to try out the one that was really bad tomorrow. So far though it seems a little more responsive overall and less movement when going through dips on the road at 40-45mph.
 
Great news, glad you were able to get it figured out and let's cross out fingers it is good on that really bad dip also.
 
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Great news, glad you were able to get it figured out and let's cross out fingers it is good on that really bad dip also.

Took it over the hill this morning and barely noticed anything. No lane changes or bad steering wheel movement. Thank y’all for the help.

FWIW I used the ES2233LM: 7/8"-18 LH Thread MOOG Tie-Rod End, Tapered from WFO for the passenger side. My TRE are flipped for top-down installation. Then shortened the drag link to accommodate the new steering attachment.

This is on a Waggy Dana 44 swapped in using the Barnes truss/control arm setup. At 2.5” of spring lift the high steer isn’t needed. And with the inverted T steering setup, there is no interference with the sway bar links.
 
Awesome. You should do a How To write up and post it up. I'm sure Chris would like it and they make the Waggy axle makes a good option.
 
I should have taken more pictures...

Their instructions are pretty good. Only 1 spot I would change, about how much to cut the housing.
 
What part of the housing do you have to cut? I know the 1980 and newer Waggy Dana 44's are getting harder to find and they used a vacuum disconnect for a few years.
 
Drivers side spring perch. They call for 3” cut off. I found that 2” at the top (truss) and about 2.5” on the back (LCA mount) was enough. I ended up making a clamshell sleeve to add material back on. Lots of high silicone welding rod used that day.


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They aren’t bad. I did the Ford 5 on 5.5 outers on Chevy knuckles to get a little extra width and high steer. May never use the high steer, but that was back when it was going under a CJ7.
 
Yes I did the same on my axle. I owned a Grand Wagoneer a few times and helped a buddy swap the axles out of a full size Cherokee into his CJ. The guy I bought my rear axle from had a Waggy Dana 44 in the front of his TJ.
When I built my Ford HP44 I wanted the 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern to match the rear axle but I had bought Chevy high steer knuckles also. I got a brake kit for a early Bronco off Ebay that I used. I've learned a lot since then and will be making some changes to my axle this spring/summer.

I'm really glad you got it fixed and that it drives good now. Why did you go with the Barnes kit over the TNT or other kits if you don't me asking?
 
I went with the Barnes mainly because it was the only complete kit that I found that specifically called out for the Waggy Dana 44. Also, it looked like it fit together easily so I didn't have to measure too much. I did find the TnT kit called for 2 3/8" cutoff of the drivers side. However, it also called for caster to be set at 5 degrees.
 
Back when I did mine none of these kits were available so I went with a Rubicon Express bracket kit. No one offered a truss kit for a HP44 back then. I think it was 3 or 4 years later that TNT came out with their kit and it was years before Artec had kits. Now if I was doing it I would go with something else.