Suspension not adding up
- Thread starter Eddie Greenlee
- Start date
Coil bind is where the spring becomes a solid compressed mass.
This image is in the context of a valve spring, but it explains the principle.
Whether or not the spring goes back to it's original height is more a function of the material properties of the spring wire vs the total wire length (how long would it be if you unwound it into a straight bar). A spring can certainly be made to reach bind without exceeding the yield stress of the material, and therefore would come right back. But, if you hit it so hard that the coils go beyond bind into overlap, it's likely to have gone past yield and won't come back to it's original shape.
Coils most likely to have a tall coil bind height are springs that have a lot of coils (long wire length), which tends to indicate the spring rate is low, and the wire is under less stress at bind than a stiff spring with fewer coils would be at bind. So, I would expect a spring with a tall coil bind height to be more tolerant of binding than a spring with a short coil bind height, but neither are going to fare well if they get overlapped.
The moral of the story is to consider coil bind when setting your bump stops. The springs I hear the most about having to do this are Metalcloak.
Well I thought I posted information earlier, but anyway I went through the process of removing springs, unbolting shocks , track bar and loosening the sway bar bolts for the rear ended. Took tires off and cycled the suspension.
I found that my dif cover was hitting the gas tank skid and I had to grind that down. I do believe at full droop my drive shaft yoke May be binding.
I realize the track bar keeps the rear ending aligned from side to side as the axle moves up and down but it also seems to bind the axle also , so as to not let one side of the axle remain at the same height. I could probably learn a bit more about the track bar. If y’all have a picture of your track bar I’d like to see it. Please.
I did put it all back together at the end of the day. Hopefully the springs are back in properly. There’s no doubt the shocks are a limiting factor.
I eventually did remove them, and they fell apart in my hands. So I need to get some new bump stops. Please recommend.
Longhorn84
TJ Enthusiast
Agreed, I have same thing and need new rear bump stops. Anyone use Currie's?
The stock yellow ones work great, you can get them anywhere. Somebody will probably have an amazon link.
Longhorn84
TJ Enthusiast
But then you'd have to add the pucks on the bottom to have the right amount of uptravel limit right?
I don't know if the yellow bit changes where you put the extension. I don't run extended stops but I think you can space the cup that holds the yellow bit down or extend the lower part that contacts the cup/stop up, I think the Currie thing does a little of both in a way?
Longhorn84
TJ Enthusiast
you can drop the cup that holds the jounce with a spacer if needed, rather than add height to the bottom crown. i used a chunk of round UHMW and a longer bolt to do it.
I have the Currie bump stops. They extend the top and bottom. Need to drill and tap into the bottom. They also prevent the spring from un seating at full droop.
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