Old thread but hoping for some thoughts. While not quite ready for a swap yet, my left knee has arthritis and it is aggravated from shifting…not enough to stop me, and hopefully not for a long time, but since I plan to have my TJ until I die, there will come a point when I want to do a automatic swap.

My question is reference to the transfer case and if I will need to change that. I have the atlas four speed with the double low of 10.8:1, which is incredible in the manual, and the range of gear choices is awesome…but it drives right through the brakes, so it’s a clutch brake combo…as gas pedal not needed at all! I did see the automatic is actually a 1/2 inch shorter so I don’t think length is a problem, but without a clutch, will the double low in an automatic drive through the brakes as well? I saw some talk of people having issues (but seemed like wrong torque converter) with just the rubicon 4:1 ratio, so that concerns me.

If I do have issues, could I just slip back and forth between neutral and drive kind of like I do with the manual, or is that bad on the auto?

Finally, should I get parts now or are they likely always going to be available? Some of the items concern me more than others, so thinking of just getting everything now and then when I decide to do it I’ll be ready.

Thanks!

I don’t see why you would need to change the TCase. Your shafts should work with the lengths being so close. Bigger brakes and broken in properly should fix the drive through the brakes problem.

It’s no problem to slip back and forth from D to N.

I’d start getting the parts now. They are getting more and more difficult to come by. It’s why I did my NSG370 to 42rle swap earlier this year. If I waited 5 years it may be near impossible.
 
bringing this post up again since I just did my swap to the 32RH transmission. Assembly seem to go well but now when I start it, it immediately stalls like it’s underload. Used all the hardware from the donor vehicle, which was a 2001 wrangler and mine is a 1999 wrangler. Any thoughts on what might cause this?
 
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bringing this post up again since I just did my swap to the 32RH transmission. Assembly seem to go well but now when I start it, it immediately stalls like it’s underload. Used all the hardware from the donor vehicle, which was a 2001 wrangler and mine is a 1999 wrangler. Any thoughts on what might cause this?

What happens if you start it in neutral?
 
Still stalls in neutral. Lunges foward a bit too so know I need to adjust the linkage.
Someone more familiar can clarify, but the only way I know to stall the 32 is to lock up the torque converter. It has been explained to me that it will only be able to do that in 2nd and drive and shouldn't be possible in first due to the routing of the hydraulics. I don't know that for a fact, but I'd make sure it was hitting all the gears at their correct detents before I did much else. Disconnect the cable at the transmission and move the shift lever by hand into park and see what it does.

After that if it still does it, disconnect the TCC plug and see if that changes anything.
 
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Someone more familiar can clarify, but the only way I know to stall the 32 is to lock up the torque converter. It has been explained to me that it will only be able to do that in 2nd and drive and shouldn't be possible in first due to the routing of the hydraulics. I don't know that for a fact, but I'd make sure it was hitting all the gears at their correct detents before I did much else. Disconnect the cable at the transmission and move the shift lever by hand into park and see what it does.

After that if it still does it, disconnect the TCC plug and see if that changes anything.

Is that the backup plug/swiitch?
 
Yup, what blaine said. I might even go a step further & put the t-case into neutral as well just to make certain the engine is as "unloaded" as possible. Manually shift the transmission to neutral by hand, at the transmission itself. Then Also disconnect the TCC. If it doesn't stall then, we're onto something. Probably check the ATF level as well (you're using ATF+4, right?).

The TCC plug is the one at the back corner of the drivers side of the trans.
 
Yup, what blaine said. I might even go a step further & put the t-case into neutral as well just to make certain the engine is as "unloaded" as possible. Manually shift the transmission to neutral by hand, at the transmission itself. Then Also disconnect the TCC. If it doesn't stall then, we're onto something. Probably check the ATF level as well (you're using ATF+4, right?).

The TCC plug is the one at the back corner of the drivers side of the trans.

Someone smarter than me will have to explain how other than ATF+4 could cause it to keep the gears engaged. Not doubting, just don't understand the why of it.
 
Yup, what blaine said. I might even go a step further & put the t-case into neutral as well just to make certain the engine is as "unloaded" as possible. Manually shift the transmission to neutral by hand, at the transmission itself. Then Also disconnect the TCC. If it doesn't stall then, we're onto something. Probably check the ATF level as well (you're using ATF+4, right?).

The TCC plug is the one at the back corner of the drivers side of the trans.
Should also be able to get the t-case in neutral and see if that makes any change to what is going on.
 
I d/c the shifter and manually put in neutral. In plugged the TCC and same. Will run for about 2 seconds then stalls. Put original 1999 computer back in from manual and starts and runs fine. Put 1999 auto in and stalls, put 2001 computer in and doesn’t even want to crank, just spits and sputters
 
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Someone smarter than me will have to explain how other than ATF+4 could cause it to keep the gears engaged. Not doubting, just don't understand the why of it.

I run type F before, and it is not a problem. So I don’t believe it is an issue to cause the OPs issue, could be an issue with the valve body or servo sticking too.
 
T case in neutral too no change but now it’s just stalling but not sounding like under load. Also this is the 4.0 with no mods to it.
Also noticed check engine light so code is p1495 which looks like an evap issue.
 
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Someone smarter than me will have to explain how other than ATF+4 could cause it to keep the gears engaged. Not doubting, just don't understand the why of it.

yeah, I've always low-key questioned what exactly it is about the +4 that makes the gears go round (if that's what you were getting at). But I was mainly asking him to double check the level as part of routine transmission troubleshooting. Although low fluid would almost certainly prevent anything from engaging rather than making it do too much engaging.
 
yeah, I've always low-key questioned what exactly it is about the +4 that makes the gears go round (if that's what you were getting at). But I was mainly asking him to double check the level as part of routine transmission troubleshooting. Although low fluid would almost certainly prevent anything from engaging rather than making it do too much engaging.

The additives helps reduce shudder when the bands grab the drums, type f does not have much so if shifting you can use it to adjust the feel.
 
The additives helps reduce shudder when the bands grab the drums, type f does not have much so if shifting you can use it to adjust the feel.

I have a degree in physics and a minor in chemistry and I'm still amazed that they can design a fluid to act in certain ways like this.