X4
I just added snubbed extenders and made my own reinforcement plate. Works like a charm with my 33x12.5's
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Give it time.
X4
I just added snubbed extenders and made my own reinforcement plate. Works like a charm with my 33x12.5's
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..., but I figured it's worth the extra money to not have to open the tire carrier independently of the tailgate.
What backspacing?It's in my build profile. 35/12.5/15 Mickey Thompson MTZ w/ Raceline beadlock
MOR/RYDE TAILGATE REINFORCEMENT KIT JP54-022
https://buyanyrvpart.com/morryde-tailgate-reinforcement-kit-jp54-022
Looks like a bought the Morryde, not an Exogate!
Is that the price for the whole thing? Or is that specifically the reinforcement kit as mentioned? Like the bits and pieces that are mounted inside utilizing the sport bar?
That's the one from my invoice. Hinges and reenforcement plates. All that is missing is the factory style tire mount and rubber snubbers.
Thats about $80 cheaper than everywhere else...awfully tempting!
Thats about $80 cheaper than everywhere else...awfully tempting!
Hi all! I got myself and exogate. Any advice on how to get the torx screws out from the stock hinges? I stripped one already and am so pissed at myself.
See pictures. I tried heating one up with a heat gun. Guess I have to use a blowtorch?
About 10-15 seconds with a blowtorch.
great, so if that doesn’t work....drill?
The none- stripped ones, I always start with a hand held impact driver (the oldschool ones you smack with a hammer)
The stripped ones, I drill the head off, remove the part, then kroil the threads and remove with vice grips. Once I had to weld a nut on. If you're removing a part like a hing, and you very carefully just drill off the head, there should be enough sticking out to grab or weld to... worst case, drill and extract.
Drill the countersunk heads off with the biggest drillbit you can - you don't want to drill the shaft away.
Roger that.Cross that bridge if you get to it. If you need to drill, you'll be using heat anyway.
+1 torches and paint just don't play well together.The none- stripped ones, I always start with a hand held impact driver (the oldschool ones you smack with a hammer)
The stripped ones, I drill the head off, remove the part, then kroil the threads and remove with vice grips. Once I had to weld a nut on. If you're removing a part like a hing, and you very carefully just drill off the head, there should be enough sticking out to grab or weld to... worst case, drill and extract.
Drill the countersunk heads off with the biggest drillbit you can - you don't want to drill the shaft away.