What did you do to your TJ today?

red02tj said:
I’ve got an orphan 03+ drivers side mirror if you want it.
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I really appreciate the offer buddy. I ordered a set off Amazon this morning around 3:30am when I got to work lol same day delivery so it should be here by this evening. Hood latches ( which I just replaced a month or two ago) will be here tomorrow and I’ll be back on the road. I will probably be looking around for a windshield frame in the future but not really in a rush if I can drive it. I can probably pound out the dent in the hood or make some super high lines and cut it up lol
 
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Nope heat is uncomfortable, cold hurts.
I was doing some emergency planning for an outage at a refinery in Fort Mac in Alberta once. It was so cold even with two pairs of gloves my hand would start stinging after 15 minutes. Had to use a pencil because ink would freeze. Promised myself I would never complain about the heat again.
Now this is coming from someone who has lived all his life in South Louisiana....
 
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nitrofalcon said:
I had a dickens of a time pulling those pins out of the rusted door hinges. Two came out easy, the other two needed a lot of persuasion. The punch that came with the Delrin pins helped some but, ultimately I had to resort to a drill bit.
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I won't lie, going into it I was a bit afeared...

The upper hinges were both pretty straight forward, the lowers took a few more persuasive hits (which kind of makes sense). I had doused both doors with penetrating oil a few times over the past month or two in prep for this. No idea if it helped but I imagined the task of removing them would be more difficult beforehand...likely based on numerous stories I read similar to yours.
 
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chili_pepper said:
I won't lie, going into it I was a bit afeared...

The upper hinges were both pretty straight forward, the lowers took a few more persuasive hits (which kind of makes sense). I had doused both doors with penetrating oil a few times over the past month or two in prep for this. No idea if it helped but I imagined the task of removing them would be more difficult beforehand...likely based on numerous stories I read similar to yours.
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The only thing penetrating oil did for me was to lubricate the drill bit while drilling 🤣. I'm fixing to do it again to my other tj. May the gods of tj smile upon me!🤞
 
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Rear flares installed, undecided on the raw aluminum look. Will know better when fronts are on. Hood louver also on, badland winch posted for sale, new Warn M8000 ordered!
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The LJ center console sealed subwoofer project kicks hard. I upgraded the amp I installed under the steering wheel (if you have the satellite radio bracket on yours, it’s a perfect spot for a small amp). It’s typically used for boats or side-by-sides.

Soundstream amplifier upgrade:
Old: ST4.1200D — 100W RMs x 4 @ 4Ω
New: DPA5.2000 — 75W RMS x 4 @ 4Ω and 400W RMS x 1 @ 2Ω

I’m losing a bit power for the component speakers all around, but adding the ability to drive a pretty good subwoofer in a completely hidden package. I will say, this amp is probably the biggest you want to try and fit under here. Nothing under the seats!

The low-profile 10” Dayton LS44-10 sub is DVC and allows me to get the most out of the amp, which is 2Ω-stable. It slams pretty hard especially since it’s in between the seats, and maximizes the internal of volume in the enclosure without a huge magnet structure.

I scrapped the 8” ported box design: the port just takes up too much space to make it feasible. An 8” passive radiator design is not ruled out, though. It’s not really needed for me—the sealed is super tight and digs low enough for me.

Best of all, even when fully pushed, the driver cone does not contact the seat, and the seat does not contact the cone when reclined or slide forward/back.

I’m smiling—top off doors off doesn’t matter, I hear everything now down to ~32 Hz.

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Don't mind the wires—I still have some loomin' to do.
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Jae Spartacus said:
The LJ center console sealed subwoofer project kicks hard. I upgraded the amp I installed under the steering wheel (if you have the satellite radio bracket on yours, it’s a perfect spot for a small amp). It’s typically used for boats or side-by-sides.

Soundstream amplifier upgrade:
Old: ST4.1200D — 100W RMs x 4 @ 4Ω
New: DPA5.2000 — 75W RMS x 4 @ 4Ω and 400W RMS x 1 @ 2Ω

I’m losing a bit power for the component speakers all around, but adding the ability to drive a pretty good subwoofer in a completely hidden package. I will say, this amp is probably the biggest you want to try and fit under here. Nothing under the seats!

The low-profile 10” Dayton LS44-10 sub is DVC and allows me to get the most out of the amp, which is 2Ω-stable. It slams pretty hard especially since it’s in between the seats, and maximizes the internal of volume in the enclosure without a huge magnet structure.

I scrapped the 8” ported box design: the port just takes up too much space to make it feasible. An 8” passive radiator design is not ruled out, though. It’s not really needed for me—the sealed is super tight and digs low enough for me.

Best of all, even when fully pushed, the driver cone does not contact the seat, and the seat does not contact the cone when reclined or slide forward/back.

I’m smiling—top off doors off doesn’t matter, I hear everything now down to ~32 Hz.

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Don't mind the wires—I still have some loomin' to do.
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Awesome! Built not bought (y)
 
Swapped the rear Hooke Road rear bumper that I shouldn't have bought with a CrawlTek rear. Need to decide what to do about rear lights and modify the exhaust tip. I'm thinking about cutting it off just over the axle or removing the black tip and just leaving the tailpipe.

I have a CrawlTek front but can't get the front off myself with the winch on it. It will go on later tonight or in the morning when I can get a hand from someone.

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Got tired of waiting for help so I attempted it myself; probably shouldn't have but oh well. I'll feel it tomorrow.

This bumper is MUCH better in fit and finish than the Hooke Road (get what you pay for). I like how the winch is recessed into the bumper. It seems to better protect it, even without the bull bar.

In the morning I'm going to figure out my light set up on the bumper and get them mounted. I'll have to drill holes. I think I can get a flood and a spot on either side of the winch.

Now I can install the Antirock sway bar without taking the bumper off 😂.

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JasterMereel42 said:
I finished up the rust mitigation for the frame & skid plate and got it all put back together. I'm really bad at taking before pictures once I start a project. The pics for the before sections are either a) the not bad side and/or b) I have already started removing some of the rust and paint. The driver side wasn't that bad, but the passenger side had way more rust. Overall, this rust wasn't that bad, but it was a new project that I wanted to learn how to do, I had the time available, and I wanted to take care of it before it got worse.

I used a drill with a steel wire brush to strip the paint and rust off. Then, I used a coat of rusty metal primer that was recommended to me by Zorba. Then, I did 2 top coats of SEM bumper paint because I had it handy and it is black.

It is too late now, but should I have done anything differently?

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Feels good to head that off-

Nice work-

You might enjoy one of these if you like to clean up and shape metal-

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Drove to my office this pm to chill out and nurse a receivable with a client that has me concerned.......big in vehicle rat problem in my neck of the woods lately - you guys know any tricks besides cats, Crosman air rifles and peppermint? Pretty sure I’ve been visited.



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AndyG said:
Drove to my office this pm to chill out and nurse a receivable with a client that has me concerned.......big in vehicle rat problem in my neck of the woods lately - you guys know any tricks besides cats, Crosman air rifles and peppermint? Pretty sure I’ve been visited.



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Not as good as a cat, but this stuff seems to work pretty well.

Rodent Repellent

I use it on my old Bronco and good results thus far.

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