What did you do to your TJ today?

Follow up to this post on Saturday.

Before installing this radiator and going back to the stock fan clutch, the temperatures without the AC would run between 200-210 during driving conditions and 195-200 when idling. With the AC on, it would run around 215-225 driving and 200-210 when idling. Not sure why it was backwards other than the Hayden 2791 clutch. I never ran the AC with the original factory fan clutch.

Drove the Jeep several times Saturday evening (top off) and the engine never got above 203; and that was only a single time at peak temperatures and idling in the drive thru. Yesterday I drove it several times with the top on and AC running and the temps always stayed in the 194-199 range when driving. When idling for extended periods of time, it would creep up to around 225, but once I got moving it quickly dropped back to the 194-199 range. The AC performance is greatly increased. I'm going to attribute that to the reduced under hood temps.

The picture below is how the temp was running this morning and how I got the temps above.

View attachment 544792

If there was every a selling point for a double din screen that picture is it. what is the data running off of?
 
If there was every a selling point for a double din screen that picture is it. what is the data running off of?
The app is the Torque Pro App and the radio is connected to a generic Bluetooth OBD2 adapter. The radio is an ATOTO S8 Ultra, which is based on Android 10. I also have their remote amp installed on the back of the radio and a Visible (Verizon) sim card installed in it. It sounds amazing and essentially operates like a tablet. It has an AM/FM app, but I stream all my audio via either the Sirius, iHeart, or YouTube Music apps.

EDIT: The fuel level and range remaining is all estimated based on the app running and fuel flow reported by the PCM. I have Tasker installed that auto starts the app as soon as the radio is powered on. The only downside is I have to manually go into the vehicles profile in the app every time I fill up to tell it the tank is full.
 
The app is the Torque Pro App and the radio is connected to a generic Bluetooth OBD2 adapter. The radio is an ATOTO S8 Ultra, which is based on Android 10. I also have their remote amp installed on the back of the radio and a Visible (Verizon) sim card installed in it. It sounds amazing and essentially operates like a tablet. It has an AM/FM app, but I stream all my audio via either the Sirius, iHeart, or YouTube Music apps.

EDIT: The fuel level and range remaining is all estimated based on the app running and fuel flow reported by the PCM. I have Tasker installed that auto starts the app as soon as the radio is powered on. The only downside is I have to manually go into the vehicles profile in the app every time I fill up to tell it the tank is full.

I have a scan gauge that is that way on the Fuel. It beeps at you warning your out of fuel if you don’t reset. Super annoying part of that feature. is Torque app the same way ?
 
I have a scan gauge that is that way on the Fuel. It beeps at you warning your out of fuel if you don’t reset. Super annoying part of that feature. is Torque app the same way ?
You don't have to put the fuel level or DTE gauge on the screen. All the gauges are customizable to your choice. When choosing, it will light up green the PID's the app can see from the PCM. You pick the PID, gauge size, style, and location.
 
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In Colorado doing all the trails
 

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Been busy this past month: from June 3 as I wrote in my log book...
6-15-24 154046 miles Flushed cooling system - ZEREX G05 50/50%
6-17 154110 Installed Kenwood Stereo, 4 Kicker speakers and SEVENTOUR 10" subwoofer
6-19 154129 Installed Teraflex Steering Stabilizer
6-20 154145 Installed MSD coil pack and FOX 2.0 shocks front & rear
7-6 154179 Installed new fan clutch & replaced front parking light lens
7-14 154187 washed & waxed
Today 7-22 cleaned & reorganized tools and garage.
 
Been busy this past month: from June 3 as I wrote in my log book...
6-15-24 154046 miles Flushed cooling system - ZEREX G05 50/50%
6-17 154110 Installed Kenwood Stereo, 4 Kicker speakers and SEVENTOUR 10" subwoofer
6-19 154129 Installed Teraflex Steering Stabilizer
6-20 154145 Installed MSD coil pack and FOX 2.0 shocks front & rear
7-6 154179 Installed new fan clutch & replaced front parking light lens
7-14 154187 washed & waxed
Today 7-22 cleaned & reorganized tools and garage.

I need to clean and reorganize my tools. I need to take everything off of the wall and just start from scratch. I store everything on pegboard so easy to rearrange. It'll just take several hours to do.
 
Installed a left over rock light from Nightlite as a front dome light. The light is actually around 6k temperature. My phones camera made it look more yellow.

Finally got my Toyota headlights for the wiring harness. For those who have installed the harness, how did you route the wire across to the driver side headlight?

IF someone wants the headlight assemblies (no wiring harness), if you pay shipping they will be yours!

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I wired mine through the grill behind the passenger headlight.
 
Its funny, well not really.. I just sold my JT in favor of my TJ and LJ due to reliability and long term ownership concerns. The new JT/JL's are having all kinds of problems of their own and the more advanced computer systems make them a royal pain to work on in some regards, not to mention post covid work environments have left a lot of shops 'starting over' in terms of long time institutional knowledge and high quality techs - at least in my area. Theres big paint corrosion issues happening and that was the nail in the coffin for me as it can easily exceed $10,000 to repair which is above stellants threshold - ie, some have been left high and dry despite it being a warranty situation. Super comfortable, easy to drive capable all the bells and whistles. But something about the TJ/LJ that is simple has pulled me back. Of course with the last of the TJ's and LJ's approaching 20 years old, parts availability is probably going to start becoming a problem. But I would suggest looking at jeepgladiatorforum.com and the JL forum before jumping ship. One of the biggest problems people are experiencing (myself included) is warranty repairs are total crap much of the time, not always, but there are a lot of folks having major problems with terrible quality work. Others are having to fight super hard against stellants to get things covered under warranty that are clearly a warranty item. In my case, I had a transfer case leak for a common transfer input shaft seal that is known to be damaged at the factory. Once they finally agreed to replacing the seal, after I had to do the wipe clean and check for several weeks to prove it was not the trans pan, they took it in. The 'top tech' put the transfer case back together wrong the first time so it had to come out again for a second time to be torn apart and put back together. Then they put a bunch of bolts in incorrectly for the x-member, and even forgot to reinstall the plastic skid that protected fuel lines from being hit by debris. All after some internal conflicts turned a 2 day job into over a week - and of course 'no rental car available' despite it having been under contract. So after seeing signs of galvanic corosion, and a valve cover oil leak on the passenger side which requires the entire battery box and PDC to be removed to repair, I was hesitant on reliability, long term ownership, and future warranty repairs. All I'm saying is just be sure you want to go that route first. Maybe look into your local dealers to see what they offer or if there are reports of problems with repairs/warranty. TJ/LJ is far easier to work on IMO in many cases, and a lot of the problems are well known by now. Sure theres no heated seats, but simplicity has its benefits.

It's weird I've also not experienced these O2, OPDA, PCM, etc. problems with either of my 06's that so many have dealt with.

Mine has heated seats
 
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Its funny, well not really.. I just sold my JT in favor of my TJ and LJ due to reliability and long term ownership concerns. The new JT/JL's are having all kinds of problems of their own and the more advanced computer systems make them a royal pain to work on in some regards, not to mention post covid work environments have left a lot of shops 'starting over' in terms of long time institutional knowledge and high quality techs - at least in my area. Theres big paint corrosion issues happening and that was the nail in the coffin for me as it can easily exceed $10,000 to repair which is above stellants threshold - ie, some have been left high and dry despite it being a warranty situation. Super comfortable, easy to drive capable all the bells and whistles. But something about the TJ/LJ that is simple has pulled me back. Of course with the last of the TJ's and LJ's approaching 20 years old, parts availability is probably going to start becoming a problem. But I would suggest looking at jeepgladiatorforum.com and the JL forum before jumping ship. One of the biggest problems people are experiencing (myself included) is warranty repairs are total crap much of the time, not always, but there are a lot of folks having major problems with terrible quality work. Others are having to fight super hard against stellants to get things covered under warranty that are clearly a warranty item. In my case, I had a transfer case leak for a common transfer input shaft seal that is known to be damaged at the factory. Once they finally agreed to replacing the seal, after I had to do the wipe clean and check for several weeks to prove it was not the trans pan, they took it in. The 'top tech' put the transfer case back together wrong the first time so it had to come out again for a second time to be torn apart and put back together. Then they put a bunch of bolts in incorrectly for the x-member, and even forgot to reinstall the plastic skid that protected fuel lines from being hit by debris. All after some internal conflicts turned a 2 day job into over a week - and of course 'no rental car available' despite it having been under contract. So after seeing signs of galvanic corosion, and a valve cover oil leak on the passenger side which requires the entire battery box and PDC to be removed to repair, I was hesitant on reliability, long term ownership, and future warranty repairs. All I'm saying is just be sure you want to go that route first. Maybe look into your local dealers to see what they offer or if there are reports of problems with repairs/warranty. TJ/LJ is far easier to work on IMO in many cases, and a lot of the problems are well known by now. Sure theres no heated seats, but simplicity has its benefits.

It's weird I've also not experienced these O2, OPDA, PCM, etc. problems with either of my 06's that so many have dealt with.

I've not had any of those issues with my 06 LJ, either. I do have the gasoline tank spit back issue, which Jeep so artfully dodged by changing their name to Stellantis.
 
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Billet torque converter and shift pistons going in , along with temp gauge and cooler.

Any of you guys know the 42 RLE is made in 2 versions....05 brought in a non variable line pressure model. Was news to me.

Gauge will be left of the cluster on the dash at an angle, 3m double face taped with extra wire to relocate later.




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Finally got around to finishing up a body repair this weekend that I started last November. My LJ had one rust issue when purchased in May '23, a nice blister formed over many years under the "Trail Rated" logo on the driver side.

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I cleaned out the rust and shot it with a couple coats of color followed up by a catalyzed 2k clear coat. Not too bad for rattle cans in my garage in winter but I had plans to do more with it when the weather improved.

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After letting things cure well and, quite honestly, forgetting about it for a few months, it was time to flat and polish the area. After 1500 and 2000 grit wet, hot enough to melt the balls off a brass monkey so the wet sanding was a welcome task.

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After a few passes each with compound, polish and wax. I'm old school and used to using corded cast metal buffing machines with wool bonnets, but I managed this with a Ryobi 18v cordless 5" DA polisher and a variety of foam pads. I snagged a red "Trail Rated" emblem from a Trailhawk (?) to replace the original gray one, thought the red might look sharper on the black.

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Pretty happy with the results, the only suck being that I now have abolutely no choice but to polish out the rest of the vehicle. :D I don't think that clear coat has seen love since it left the stealership back in '05.