I have an ARB twin but you could use the York and a tank if you don’t already have one.
REAL WORLD COMPARISON: OEM Anti-Sway Bar w/ Disconnects vs. Antirock Off-Road Sway Bar vs. SwayLOC Dual Rate Anti Swaybar System
- Thread starter Mr. Bills
- Start date
Well thanks to the great feedback here I have a Swayloc midway through installl on my Jeep. All I have to do is setup the end links and make a little space between the two passenger arms. I was not thinking and jammed those two guys up good and tight against each other rather than leaving a little space between them.
But back to the endlinks… I just removed an Antirock that if I remember right came with instructions to set the arms so that they have a slight upward bias (maybe 10-15 degrees?) and it worked well for my needs. It seems logical that the same approach would be the route to take for the Swayloc.
Anyone care to share their experience or thoughts on the matter?
But back to the endlinks… I just removed an Antirock that if I remember right came with instructions to set the arms so that they have a slight upward bias (maybe 10-15 degrees?) and it worked well for my needs. It seems logical that the same approach would be the route to take for the Swayloc.
Anyone care to share their experience or thoughts on the matter?
The typical install has them parallel with the ground at the travel midpoint (same as the Antirock). As you likely already know, you just don't want the arms to be able to invert with down travel.
However I put mine up a bit to gain some clearance when stuffed and turning.
You aren't in control of that space. That is controlled by the width of the notches on the ends of the two torsion bars and the width of the tube that goes through the frame that the bars sit in. The two sets of arms need to be roughly flush with the end of each torsion bar. If that leaves a small gap between the inner and outer arm on the right side, that's fine, if it doesn't, that is fine as well.
As stated, roughly parallel to the ground to start, move up if they can invert under full droop, but not so high that they run into something above the frame like the grill or inner fender.
You won’t regret it, you’ll be amazed at how well it corners now. I have mine set slightly angled up a couple of degrees at the softest setting (furthest end link hole) and it’s still very firmly planted in the corners.
This part of the install manual is what got me thinking about it:
“Note the gap present between the inner and outer arms in Figure 7, this gap is necessary to ensure the torsion bar can move freely. Failure to have this gap will result in the arms making contact and possibly failing the torsion bar. Now, finish the installation following the install manual provided. If there is not a gap as shown between the two arms, then loosen the inner torsion bar hub (outer bolt) on the dual hub arm, remove the 5/16 bolt and large flat washer, install the smaller 5/16 flat washer under the large flat washer and reinstall. This will shift the torsion bar the thickness of the washer towards the opposite sideto allow the gap. Tighten the 3/8 bolts as necessary.”
When I was putting on the inner passenger arm I could not get it quite flush. I stopped cranking on it when the thick washer on the install tool started to bend.
I’m not questioning your understanding of how this thing works… I am just fleshing out my question a bit better so I can be certain it’s not installer error (I know it’s hard to believe but it happens to me on occasion).
The width of the tube in the frame determines the relationship of the arms to each other. If you want to adjust that gap, you need to pull the bars out of the frame with the bushing on at least one side and grind the end of the tube closer to the frame so the overall stack width is enough to allow the gap. Done correctly if there was an actual concern that there would be any detrimental effect from the two arm faces rubbing against each other when the latch is disconnected in offroad mode, then there would be a thin flat washer of the appropriate size in a slippery material like UHMW or nylon to act as a bearing surface. If your sensibilities require that, then we can likely dig up some 1/16" UHMW to punch a washer out of.
I completed the install this morning and my wife and I took it for a spin. We drove the the local burger stand and the difference in handling was significant. Just for my own comparison I flipped the lever while I was in the drive-thru line. When I made the hard right onto the boulevard it was right back to feeling like my AntiRock. What surprised me and maybe is was just my imagination was the effect the cross wind had on the handling when it was in the “off road” mode.
All in all, for me it was a very worthwhile upgrade.
All in all, for me it was a very worthwhile upgrade.
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Well, time to swap the Antirock on my build list to a Swayloc. Thanks for helping me make things more expensive! My wife just rolled her eyes when I told her.....
You won't regret it. It's worth the extra funds for a rig that is driven on the street. Just tell the wife it's for hers & the families safety.
I have been wanting to ask this for a while but didn't want to look too stupid, but now I don't care, I just want to know the answer. It is one of the common first steps when lifting is to put on disconnects and take the front swaybar out of the pic altogether when off road for max articulation. Then the AR was the big thing because it was a sway bar but not enough to be helpful on the road and not enough to limit articulation off road. So why have it at all, why not stick with disconnects? With that line of thought in mind, would it not be better to have the SL flip the switch from "on road useful" to "disconnected" for maximum articulation? What is the benefit of having really mild anti-sway off road instead of no swaybar?
Ask yourself what does a swaybar do? So if you disconnect your swaybar then what happens? If you want a swaybar on-road why wouldn't you want one off-road if it doesn't limit useable articulation?
And remember no question is a stupid question.
I get that the purpose is to limit body role and at road speeds that makes sense. I guess I am questioning the thought that at low crawling speeds if the bar is not strong enough that it limits useable articulation is it really strong enough to limit body role at max articulation? All the demo's I see out there are "this is what a Jeep looks like crossed up with the bar connected and this is what the jeep looks like with the bar disconnected". I have not seen anyone showing the difference between in the body role between disconnected and AR / SL connected. Arguably I may just not have seen them or know where to find them. I hope that made sense?
All the new rigs coming out go for complete disconnection at the push of a button. Maybe they don't have a way to take the bar from strong to mild like the SL?
All the new rigs coming out go for complete disconnection at the push of a button. Maybe they don't have a way to take the bar from strong to mild like the SL?
If you can reduce body roll and keep your chassis more stable & planted while not affecting articulation wouldn't that be better? And also remember you still have a swaybar on the rear axle that ins't disconnected unless you've removed it.
I ran for 8+ years without a rear swaybar and did the disconnect thing for about a year and then got a Anti-Rock. Ran it for 3 years and then got a SwayLoc. Now I'm back to having a Anti-Rock but I'm also running one in the rear.
Change your thinking about antisway bars. Antisway bars control movement. Think of them as working to keep its axle parallel to the body. Then consider what happens to the body when the axles are twisted in opposite directions.
I am still running the rear bar and disconnects up front. I have been following the forum "best practices" recipe for my lift and the improvement and handling has been amazing off road. I will probably get the SL once gears and lockers are done. I did just find this thread that has helped explain it a bit better.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...connects-opinions-and-who-has-run-both.12449/
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...connects-opinions-and-who-has-run-both.12449/