Why not just trim the trim? It's the shift boot trim ring it's hitting right?
B&M is one of my top three favorite mods btw!
Anyone using the B&M sport shifter?
- Thread starter Bababooey
- Start date
Why not just trim the trim? It's the shift boot trim ring it's hitting right?
B&M is one of my top three favorite mods btw!
Yep, the shift boot trim. Everything inside is pretty much OEM and my fear is I’ll ruin it haha. The other downside is that it takes some effort to shift. The old tower I could use my pinky holding a can of seltzer, I kinda have to think about the shift.
Mine takes more effort when it’s cold. Once warm I can two fingers it.
Surprised there is issue with the boot trim ring. With a BL and stock Shifter, yes, but the throw on the B&M is so short I wouldn’t expect it to hit the trim ring.
If your oem shifter wasn’t hitting the trim before not sure why the B&M short shifter would be hitting? Installing mine actually helped with that. I shift much easier and my knuckles don’t hit the console in 1,3, and 5 as well.
FWIW I’m on 2” bds lift, MORE mml, 1.25” BL, and UCF extra clearance skid
FWIW I’m on 2” bds lift, MORE mml, 1.25” BL, and UCF extra clearance skid
unbolt the transmission mount from the skid and jack it up an inch. See if there are any clearance issues and/or if it helps with bezel trim interference with shifter.
Mine has no clearance issue. Running 1" MML 1.125" BL and still the stock TC skid. May have issues when I get the rest of the tummy tuck parts. I'll tackle that if or when anything comes up.
@jazngab Whats up… when are we doing Rausch.
My unprofessional guess is that I’m at an odd angle, the slope to the rear is too great. I’m thinking if I raise the tranny with more of a tuck it will level out the driveline, worst case I’ll ditch the mml for OEM mounts.
@sierradmax that’s where I am running into a slight hiccup. I have the tranny unbolted but when I jack it up the whole jeep goes with it. When it warms up I’ll try loosening the motor mounts.
My unprofessional guess is that I’m at an odd angle, the slope to the rear is too great. I’m thinking if I raise the tranny with more of a tuck it will level out the driveline, worst case I’ll ditch the mml for OEM mounts.
@sierradmax that’s where I am running into a slight hiccup. I have the tranny unbolted but when I jack it up the whole jeep goes with it. When it warms up I’ll try loosening the motor mounts.
Last edited:
The B&M output angle is not with the funky angle that the 2005 OEM shifter has. It was “built” for the JK NSG.
Mine is a PITA and hits, had to Dremel the plastic on the boot. I couldn’t shit with the TC Drop, once I put the SYE on it fixed it.
It’s the funky bend in the OEM shifter, even with the shorter shifts, it will hit unless the trans is all the way up, and BL it TC drop and it hits.
Inhave a TJ and JK, the shifter 6” stick is bent differently
Mine is a PITA and hits, had to Dremel the plastic on the boot. I couldn’t shit with the TC Drop, once I put the SYE on it fixed it.
It’s the funky bend in the OEM shifter, even with the shorter shifts, it will hit unless the trans is all the way up, and BL it TC drop and it hits.
Inhave a TJ and JK, the shifter 6” stick is bent differently
I noticed the same thing on mine. When you lift the tranny, it's taking a lot of weight off the Jeep, so the Jeep goes up too. Try jacking it up a little higher. Eventually it should start lifting the tranny by itself.
Thanks for the replies. I wonder if a stock JK shift lever would help? This afternoon I’ll try putting more pressure on the tranny with the jack.
This the stock shifter NSG for the 2005 (I think 06 as well.
This is the B&M and the JK OEM
Do you see how the TJ OEM a has a bend that keeps it farther forward in the shift boot area, and the JK and B&M goes straight back?
The JK style is worse in the TJ console, and the B&M only comes in the JK shape, so it doesn’t fit well.
If you lower the Trans, it then hits. If you then lift it back up, it works, but super close.
I’m going to out in the UA from Savvy, and I’m curious to see if it will then fit really well in the TJ.
I have not found a B&M with the TJ bend.
The shift sticks matter too.
The B&M is actually better for fit in TJ, the stick is in front of the shifter bolt in.
The MOPAR was stick was behind bolt in, which makes it hit even more. You can see them both here. The Mopar will run on the console bezel more, the B&M fits in front.
Add the B&M shape and the Mopar shift stick and they really hit the bezel.
The B&M is actually better for fit in TJ, the stick is in front of the shifter bolt in.
The MOPAR was stick was behind bolt in, which makes it hit even more. You can see them both here. The Mopar will run on the console bezel more, the B&M fits in front.
Add the B&M shape and the Mopar shift stick and they really hit the bezel.
Well it’s settled… I’m going to need to tuck it up a bit.
Here is we where we are currently, regular UCF no body lift skid.
Here is the transmission jacked up about an inch from where it sits.
Here is we where we are currently, regular UCF no body lift skid.
Here is the transmission jacked up about an inch from where it sits.
The Savvy Under Armor will lift it, but you need to also add a 1.25” BL and 1” MML. So yeah it’s going down a path.
I have them all here and painting and waiting for a weekend I’m not slammed ha.
Already have the MML and the Savvy BL, I'm thinking the UCF extra clearance.
The back order status at savvy scares me.
The back order status at savvy scares me.
Are you planning on an SYE and DC driveshaft and upper rear control arms with that? I recently installed the same stuff, and thought I might be able to get by without the driveline mods (mine's an LJ too). But even with a spacer on the UCF extra clearance skid, I had vibes, and had to add the extras.
Similar threads
