Whitney's Back to Stock Build: A Tribute to my first Jeep (04 Wrangler Sport, Light Khaki Metallic)

Okay, I’m an idiot. These ARE, in fact, custom instructions. I was just reading through the service manual to figure out where the ignition coil is and get my bearings before I attempt install tomorrow, and the diagram on the instructions included with the kit is straight from the service manual. Derp.

Anyway, my plan is to run the wire through the plug above the pedal. I’ll drill a tiny hole to pass it through to the engine bay and get it to the coil. Going to splice the red wire with the kill switch wire using the included crimp connectors. I found an awesome spot to mount the switch today; will post a pic tomorrow. I think I’ve got this under control after all! Haha. My only concern now is figuring out how to make sure the wire is properly secured within the bay.
 
Okay, I’m an idiot. These ARE, in fact, custom instructions. I was just reading through the service manual to figure out where the ignition coil is and get my bearings before I attempt install tomorrow, and the diagram on the instructions included with the kit is straight from the service manual. Derp.

Anyway, my plan is to run the wire through the plug above the pedal. I’ll drill a tiny hole to pass it through to the engine bay and get it to the coil. Going to splice the red wire with the kill switch wire using the included crimp connectors. I found an awesome spot to mount the switch today; will post a pic tomorrow. I think I’ve got this under control after all! Haha. My only concern now is figuring out how to make sure the wire is properly secured within the bay.

I would suggest picking up weather proof crimp connectors, instead of using the el-cheapo connectors supplied with the switch. You want a quality connector with a heat shrink cover. I would then run a single piece of heat shrink over both connections to further protect it.

Since the connection will be exposed in the engine bay, the last thing you want is for a little corrosion leaving you stranded.
 
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I would suggest picking up weather proof crimp connectors, instead of using the el-cheapo connectors supplied with the switch. You want a quality connector with a heat shrink cover. I would then run a single piece of heat shrink over both connections to further protect it.

Since the connection will be exposed in the engine bay, the last thing you want is for a little corrosion leaving you stranded.

This is brilliant advice. So will I only need one connector? I think I’m confused on how I’m actually connecting these things. I thought I’d just need to snip the red wire and connect it to the kill switch wire with one connector..but am I missing another connection?
 
This is brilliant advice. So will I only need one connector? I think I’m confused on how I’m actually connecting these things. I thought I’d just need to snip the red wire and connect it to the kill switch wire with one connector..but am I missing another connection?

You need two connections, and therefore two connectors, to interrupt the red wire with the switch. My advice was to replace the two cheap, unreliable blue crimp connectors supplied with the kit with two high quality, waterproof crimp connectors. Use the same installation instructions.
 
Got the switch installed exactly where I wanted it. Also grabbed some weatherproof connectors and a piece of heat shrink. What I didn’t realize until I unwrapped the kill switch wire was that there’s actually two wires coming from the switch, hence the need for two connectors. I tend to panic when I’m doing stuff I’m not super comfortable with instead of just breaking it down step by step. This Jeep is the first vehicle I’ve ever really worked on myself. Anyway, here’s where we‘re at:

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Not sure what that little cutout is for, but it’s the perfect spot for my kill switch. Can’t see it from the driver’s seat but it’s super accessible so I can conveniently flip it on and off. I located the plug that I’m going to drill into to pass my wires through. View from the inside of the car and then from the engine bay:

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Found good spots to neatly zip tie the wires once I’ve got everything connected. I should be off to the races with this project tomorrow IF I can find the red wire. It’s the only thing that’s evaded me. Haha. Couple of questions:

1. I assume I should disconnect my battery prior to tackling this project?
2. Can I put some flex seal or something of the sort around the plug drill hole after everything is all set? Figured it might not be a bad idea for extra waterproofing assurance. What would you use?
 
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I’m at a dead end. I found a picture of a removed coil connector on the forum. Looks like this:

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There doesn’t look to be a red wire, but instead a wire that has a red stripe. I have to assume that’s the one I’m cutting? I emailed the seller and asked him to confirm. We’ll see.
 
I’m at a dead end. I found a picture of a removed coil connector on the forum. Looks like this:

View attachment 407351

There doesn’t look to be a red wire, but instead a wire that has a red stripe. I have to assume that’s the one I’m cutting? I emailed the seller and asked him to confirm. We’ll see.

Lol, that’s my photo!

When I get home I can look at the FSM.
 
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This is direct from the 2004 FSM. This is the view of the plug if you've just pulled it off and are looking at it. Cavity #4 is RD/YL or, red wire with yellow tracer. See if that helps.

The picture you pulled from my thread is useless because the colors all changed in 05.

I also find it weird that it's having you tap into one of the drivers instead of directly into the ASD. But it's not my product so I digress.
 
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Oooookay. Some progress. Got the wire run through the firewall. Drilled the smallest hole possible to get both wires through. Taped up one wire about 6” lower than the other and fed the single strand through. That gave me enough to yank the rest. They are in there TIGHT, I’m not even sure I need to caulk the drill hole but I probably will put a dab there anyway. Once I got the wires through, I ran them under the carpet on the inside and neatened it up.

The kill switch company confirmed the wire location and I found a decent spot to access it. I followed the ignition coil connector about 4-5 inches down and there’s an area with enough play to make the connections. Wire is protected by some tubing so I can just open it right up. I just had a thought in the shower, though…I might halt the project here and have my shop make the connections. If for some reason the kill switch doesn’t work or I mess something up in the process, I don’t want it to be stranded at my house. I want to make sure it gets to the shop on the 31st.

The switch is installed and the wiring is run, all that’s left to be done is connect the wires and zip tie everything neatly. Should be no problem for them to handle that. I’ll provide the weatherproof connectors and heat shrink tubing I want to use as well. I ziptied the wire together and am going to use another one to tuck it somewhere safe for a couple weeks.

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Got a used set of tow hooks in the mail yesterday. They were in great shape, but I sanded down a couple of rusty spots on the underside and gave them a good wash before painting them. Came out excellent and they are ready to go back on after the bumpers get dealt with.

I also did end up rolling up the wiring for the kill switch and tucking it aside in the engine bay for the shop to make the connections. Better safe than sorry, been waiting months for this work to be done.

Also ordered a used but excellent shape set of bumper guards. Will have them Saturday but I’ll just set them aside with the rest of my little pile of parts ready to be reinstalled after suspension and bumper work!

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I have read through your entire thread now. This is one of those projects that I really enjoy following along on. I completely understand the desire to return it to factory condition, and your attention to detail is admirable. Keep up the good work!
 
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I have read through your entire thread now. This is one of those projects that I really enjoy following along on. I completely understand the desire to return it to factory condition, and your attention to detail is admirable. Keep up the good work!

Thank you! I appreciate that you feel it’s “admirable”. My wife thinks it’s something else 🤣

Funny story, since I got this Jeep my package arrival rate has significantly increased. Naturally. But I’ve begun intercepting the packages in the garage, unboxing them, and placing whatever it is I got that day on my workbench and parts table with the rest of my Jeep stuff. Blends right in and the wife can’t tell what’s new and what’s not. 😎
 
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Thank you! I appreciate that you feel it’s “admirable”. My wife thinks it’s something else 🤣

Funny story, since I got this Jeep my package arrival rate has significantly increased. Naturally. But I’ve begun intercepting the packages in the garage, unboxing them, and placing whatever it is I got that day on my workbench and parts table with the rest of my Jeep stuff. Blends right in and the wife can’t tell what’s new and what’s not. 😎

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this is quite a read, you hit this hard and fast. I love the door panel/JB Plastic Weld trick, looks familiar :LOL:

Really looking forward the final post-lift-reduction photos, I think you're heading to a place I may land as well. Cute boy too, keep him close & enjoy that time as I'm sure you don't need hear from me for the 1000th time that it all goes way too fast...
 
this is quite a read, you hit this hard and fast. I love the door panel/JB Plastic Weld trick, looks familiar :LOL:

Really looking forward the final post-lift-reduction photos, I think you're heading to a place I may land as well. Cute boy too, keep him close & enjoy that time as I'm sure you don't need hear from me for the 1000th time that it all goes way too fast...

Thank you — for both the kind words and the JB Weld trick. Ha! It absolutely does go fast, I don’t know how our 3-year-old is already 3 and I don’t know how our “newborn” is suddenly 8 months. Today we spent an hour ”driving” her Jeep, which really means I drive it via remote control and she enjoys the ride. Anyway, I stopped for a second to throw another piece of wood on the fire and she looked up at me and said, “Mommy, can we drive our Jeeps together? Get in yours!” I told her I cannot WAIT for that day. Haha.
 
Okay, couple small projects completed. Decided not to wait on getting the spare tire carrier sandblasted; it’s gone almost 20 years and developed very little rust, so I figured I’d sand the shit out of it, treat it with Rustoleum Rust Reformer, then hit it with some black Rustoleum. Came out excellent and the second coat of paint is drying as we speak.

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Now, once my Jeep is back from the shop, I can get this back on, reinstall the third brake light, and mount the spare. It’ll look like itself again, at least until I tend to the bumpers. While I was at it, I figured I’d take another whack at removing the tailgate vent. Figured out that you should start on either the left or right sides, not the top and bottom. It’s simply pressure mounted with plastic tabs. Ran my fingers under the rubber on the right side and pulled it right out. Did the same to the left. I soaked it and gave it a good scrub then did the cerakote wipe and, while it looked a whole lot better, I ultimately decided to order a new one. The rubber started to dry rot anyway. It shipped from Mopar Parts Giant today.

While I was back there, I removed the spare tire bumpers and soaked/scrubbed them. Cleaned behind them real good and then hit them with some cerakote too before putting them back on.

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Disclaimer: the drip marks are from my ‘86 CJ, not this Jeep. 🤣

I’ve also started toying with the idea of upgrading the sound system. This wasn’t on my initial task list because I really like the stock look of factory head unit but you guys are a bad influence. Thanks to the forums, I stumbled on https://www.1factoryradio.com/ and I’m thinking I want to grab the bluetooth version and pair them up with some Polk DB series speakers. Need to do a little more reading on this as I’m not sure how many speakers I’d need — I think 4? Two for the sound bar and two for the front dash corners? I’ll dig into it a little more tonight.
 
She’s home! And I am absolutely thrilled with the stance. Things completed at the shop:

- factory height springs
- new track bars
- Daystar 1” body lift
- 1” hubcentric wheel spacers
- made kill switch wire connection
- installed new tailgate hinges
- installed OEM fog wiring harness
- installed new turn signal switch

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31s with a 1” body lift looks exactly how I hoped it would and I feel much better about the hours of research I did on the forums. 🤣

Next up:

- get the f*ckin soft top on!!!
- new bumper bars
- sandblast and paint receiver hitch
- paint original flares and replace the set of Crowns on it now
- engine bay detail
- replace radio head unit with OEM bluetooth unit
- upgrade speakers

Haven’t figured out a game plan for the soft top yet, my dad and I have always made the seasonal switch together but he’s in NY and I’m in MA. I might post in a couple local FB Jeep groups and see if someone might be willing to help out. Anyone here local to Mansfield, MA and want to hang with me for a little manual labor and a case of beer? 😏
 
Made a few purchases the last couple days. Everything arrives by Friday:

2 sets of Polk DB+ 522s
4 wiring adapters
1 pair of Select Increments Dash Pods

The Dash Pods came from Crutchfield and the speakers came from eBay; couldn’t resist the deal @ $58/pair from a reputable dealer. I also think I’ve finally ordered the correct part to replace my tailgate vent. I’ve now ordered it twice and both times a similar looking but differently shaped part showed up — the same part, two separate times. Wondering if it’s a part number issue. Anyway, this time I ordered from eBay and they had actual pictures of the part so here’s to hoping it shows up correctly. This is the only thing keeping me from getting my spare and third brake light reassembled. Should be a productive weekend!