wonder how many jeeps worth of Johnny joints could you keep quiet for a life time with 35 pounds of grease.
Johnny Joint grease—an experiment
- Thread starter Mike_H
- Start date
wonder how many jeeps worth of Johnny joints could you keep quiet for a life time with 35 pounds of grease.
They sell cartridges also just not one at a time via the site, could be worth the call if anyone wants some.
That's great to know!! I'll let y'all know what I find out.
Id try a single tube as long as its not more than the price in my head
So, just because it’s expensive, doesn’t mean it’s going to be good for our application. Has anyone looked into the type of grease it is? What is its base? What are the recommended uses?
https://www.powerlubeind.com/sites/...014/TDS/Fuchs/Renolit_Poliplex_Series_tds.pdf
Pretty good for a general purpose lubricant.
Redline probably still bests it.
https://www.redlineoil.com/Content/files/tech/cv-2_grease_prod_info.pdf
https://www.lucasoil.com/pdf/TDS_HD_Mining_Construction_Grease.pdf Maybe we should look at Lucas Mining Grease
Poliplex is $7 a stick + shipping and sold in a cartoon of 10. Could be $100 total
We need to experiment with a high performance anti-sieze. If we can find the right metal content, it should provide a decent level of lubricity after the oil carrier has been removed by the cat litter. Nickel is fairly slippery, fairly corrosion resistant, and not expensive.
Or even this stuff if the literature can be believed.
https://www.antiseize.com/anti-seize-special-aluminum-copper-and-graphite-based-anti-seize-compounds
I bought some. I remember talking about this with you a while ago and I need a new jar of anti seize anyway. The graphite content sold me.
The “ingredients” based on the SDS sheet
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Maybe this stuff https://neverseezproducts.com/cart/...-seez-nsc-1-regular-grade-1-lb-cartridge.html Rumor has it this is what Jantz/Yukon use in their Super Joint.
Dunno...But I've tried redline CV-2 and the Energy suspension stuff. I have a Tube of the stuff Currie sells that I'm going to try as well. (I don't believe it will, but I have it). I also needed some more anti-Seize anyway because...rust belt. Its like franks red hot...I put that shit on everything!
Why do I picture Mike lookin’ like the Tin Man 5 minutes into anti-seizing his johny joints….
You’ve seen that video that bleeping Jeep Matt put out about anti seize haven’t you
You’ve seen that video that bleeping Jeep Matt put out about anti seize haven’t you
It’s not a disease….
the joints I put the Energy Suspension F5 prelube in were the first to creak and looked and felt like they had never been greased, so I won't be using that again.
I came across Currie's recommendation of a non-synthetic, moly grease, and I'm on the hunt to see what else I can try since CV2 is synthetic. Wondering if anybody has tried an NLGI #1? It's supposed to be softer which might be counterintuitive for its longevity, but maybe the lower viscosity will allow it to flow in through the grease zerks? I could tolerate more frequent greasing if I didn't have to pull it and disassemble.
Chevron has a product but I can't find it to buy online, so I may have to bundle it in with a trip to the city.
I came across Currie's recommendation of a non-synthetic, moly grease, and I'm on the hunt to see what else I can try since CV2 is synthetic. Wondering if anybody has tried an NLGI #1? It's supposed to be softer which might be counterintuitive for its longevity, but maybe the lower viscosity will allow it to flow in through the grease zerks? I could tolerate more frequent greasing if I didn't have to pull it and disassemble.
Chevron has a product but I can't find it to buy online, so I may have to bundle it in with a trip to the city.
I would try to get lube to flow. I drilled my bushings and then lined up the hole with the zerk and was able flow grease. I'm sticking with the silicone base grease for now.
Is it the Energy Suspension stuff? That stuff was so thick I'm surprised it even flows through the pump, let alone the johnny joint.
I'm not interested in carving the grooves that @Mike_H did in the shells, but I can drill a hole. I might go ahead and drill them before install and line up the holes, and then I can experiment without removing them. Guess I just need to do a little research on compatibility so if I try an NLGI #1 later it's not going to undesirably interact with what I used at the start, for example the CV2. The Chevron stuff I showed above is a lithium complex thickener, whereas my understanding CV2 uses calcium sulfate. Neither are polyurea, which I understand is a good sign, but I'm not a chemist.
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