Just source a new quick disconnect. I think there is an o-ring that goes in there or something.... I only open up transmissions, I do my level best to not remove or install them.
Jeep Jeffrey
- Thread starter Christian.mers
- Start date
Found it, my 30RH uses this fitting for both inport and outport to my trans cooler.
Dorman sells one too “Dorman 800-610”
Dorman sells one too “Dorman 800-610”
You need a transmission cooler line disconnect tool... They're similar to the fuel line disconnect... And not that expensive.
If the lines are 3/8" this is the one I bought.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AZW8PDC?tag=wranglerorg-20
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Got my transmission pulled from the jeep, in the process of rebuilding. I have the 30RH and this process has been very easy. It’s all been waiting for parts that has been the hard part. I’ve also been having trouble finding the torque specs but I only have the FSM so maybe that’s my issue. I’m about to start externally searching for answers.
I’m loving It for sure
Found my pump leak (O ring was broken)
Thrust washers worn (I’d recommend just spending the $50 from Cobra even if you don’t think you’ll need it.
My Front Clutch drum has external scoring where the kickdown band makes contact and the frictions and steels were friction welded together and the pressure had a groove worn into it so I replaced that as well. I could salvage the drum because I was using a new band and I cleaned it all up a lot better (no substantial damage to exterior of the drum)
So far rear clutch is reassembled and I need to wait for the torque converter from A&A and get a spring compressor for my front clutch. I also need to research the output shaft more because I took the extension housing off and the output shaft came with it, I’m sure I’m just overthinking it
I’m loving It for sure
Found my pump leak (O ring was broken)
Thrust washers worn (I’d recommend just spending the $50 from Cobra even if you don’t think you’ll need it.
My Front Clutch drum has external scoring where the kickdown band makes contact and the frictions and steels were friction welded together and the pressure had a groove worn into it so I replaced that as well. I could salvage the drum because I was using a new band and I cleaned it all up a lot better (no substantial damage to exterior of the drum)
So far rear clutch is reassembled and I need to wait for the torque converter from A&A and get a spring compressor for my front clutch. I also need to research the output shaft more because I took the extension housing off and the output shaft came with it, I’m sure I’m just overthinking it
nice work. The ATSG manual has all the torque specs, but I believe they're littered throughout the FSM as well.
Make certain you're checking your clearances as you re-assemble the drums. You'll be back up & running in no time.
Make certain you're checking your clearances as you re-assemble the drums. You'll be back up & running in no time.
I fully assembled the rear clutch and I was on the tighter end of spec at 0.027. Spec is 0.025 - 0.045. I’m happily going with what I have. I put my outer most pressure plate on and kept getting a tighter clearance and I couldn’t figure out what I was doing wrong so I disassembled the whole thing and pulled the clutch piston out and then reassembled it and made a point to notice if I was putting the flat pressure plate on in the right orientation and it made all the difference. I didn’t have to replace it in the rear clutch so I could see where the clutches made contact and where the snap ring made contact and that’s how I figured it out.
For putting the rear clutch piston In, I had a Lip Wizard and it did me no good, maybe I was using it wrong. I used a .005 feeler gauge and I pushed even pressure from the top of the clutch piston as I took the feeler gauge and made it a point to ensure the seals was pushed down in the proper orientation and I made sure I used an ungodly amount of ATF so I didn’t roll and seals.
I now need to rent a spring compressor for the front clutch and re/disassemble.
While I was ordering stuff I got the Savvy T-case shifter. I haven’t had issues with 4wd but with winter coming up, I don’t want to.
For putting the rear clutch piston In, I had a Lip Wizard and it did me no good, maybe I was using it wrong. I used a .005 feeler gauge and I pushed even pressure from the top of the clutch piston as I took the feeler gauge and made it a point to ensure the seals was pushed down in the proper orientation and I made sure I used an ungodly amount of ATF so I didn’t roll and seals.
I now need to rent a spring compressor for the front clutch and re/disassemble.
While I was ordering stuff I got the Savvy T-case shifter. I haven’t had issues with 4wd but with winter coming up, I don’t want to.
I noticed it’s scattered here and there, I was pretty angry looking for rear support and overrunning torque and all of that stuff but I went back and read the steps and saw it but it wasn’t in the Torque spec chart, pretty silly
Edit: I stupidly thought I would have all the specs in the FSM and didn’t buy the ATSG but realized it only helps
Planetary Geartrain is installed. I had to take the output shaft out because I kept making a simple mistake of not ensuring proper seating of my thrust washer on the rear planet gear.
How much are you in for on your rebuild? You've had to replace more hard parts than what I normally* see.
* I'm the "expert" but it's not like I do one of these a week or even a month. I still have large gaps in understanding & actual experience. I guess it's like my job; I just need to know more than the guy on the other end of the phone.
* I'm the "expert" but it's not like I do one of these a week or even a month. I still have large gaps in understanding & actual experience. I guess it's like my job; I just need to know more than the guy on the other end of the phone.
| Workbench Rebuild | Total: $630.24 |
|---|---|
| Rebuild kit | $138.57 |
| Thrust Washer Kit | $45 |
| Fr/Di Pressure Plate | $47.85 |
| 2x transmission cooler fittings | $23.98 |
| LubeLocker Gasket | $28.84 |
| Torque Converter + S/H | $546 ($200 Core) |
| Supporting Mods | Total: $435.75 |
| Savvy T-Case shifter | $156.95 |
| Driveshaft/Axle U-Joint | $147.43 |
| Transmission Mount | $21.54 |
| Transmission Temperature Bung | $16.23 |
| Transmission Temperature Gauge Mount | $30.48 |
| Transmission Temperature Gauge | $63.12 |
| Tools | Total: $116.54 |
| Front Clutch Spring compressor | $20 |
| Dial Indicator | $39.99 |
| Digital Caliper | $22.99 |
| Brake clean and shop towel/rags | $33.56 |
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Could’ve been more cheap on the rebuild portion but I kind of lost track of how much I was spending and just bought what I needed. I didn’t care too much about how much I spent as long as I got to learn and I got to rebuild my own transmission. I’ve learned so much in this process that it easily justifies how much I spent (at least for me)
I wanted to get my drive shafts U-Joints changed while they were out since they were needing it.
I wanted to get my drive shafts U-Joints changed while they were out since they were needing it.
TransGo TF-1 Kit is in the jeep, write up will be posted after I fix all my issues and verify everything is correct.
I need to finish up my Savvy T-case shifter, I’m having Trouble understanding where to correctly line these end points up (adjustment wise) and having Trouble understanding when I need to tighten or loosen to ensure I’m not binding.
Progress has been made, I put the transmission in Thursday last week and I’ve been diagnosing every day since then. I have a very long shift point for 1st (3,200rpm) and a 2-3 Flare (2,9000rpm)
Will update when issue is resolved
I need to finish up my Savvy T-case shifter, I’m having Trouble understanding where to correctly line these end points up (adjustment wise) and having Trouble understanding when I need to tighten or loosen to ensure I’m not binding.
Progress has been made, I put the transmission in Thursday last week and I’ve been diagnosing every day since then. I have a very long shift point for 1st (3,200rpm) and a 2-3 Flare (2,9000rpm)
Will update when issue is resolved
Updated, it had a $200 core charge. Kept the total the same because the $200 wasn’t something I wanted to factor in price since it was just going to come back into my wallet
Ahh. I track my expenses as a line item for the thing, and then a credit back for the core, so 2 line items. And then I include shipping as a separate column on that same expenditure.
I have a physics degree, not an accounting degree.
I have a physics degree, not an accounting degree.
I have a highschool diploma, whatever works for you works. I see why you’d track it that way, it’s more analytical and itemized. If I was budgeting I’d probably do it that way but since I have receipts and stuff and it isn’t a regular purchase I have no shame putting it in 1 line
So, I ordered a new accumulator piston.
That’s not the main issue but it is adding to the issue.
So my testing procedure for my 2-3 flare was to check TV boost. I put the jeep in D and hooked up a gauge to the Line Pressure/accumulator port and set the jeep to 1,000 rpm just so it’s not idling. I then took the TV cable (runs from the Throttle Body to the transmission) and removed the spring that goes on the TV lever on the transmission.
I pushed it all the way to the front of the jeep (minimum tv) and then all the way to the rear (maximum tv). The minimum for my jeep should be 80-90PSI. Maximum should be 36-42psi higher
My psi was Min 88 and Max 90
I went to 1,500rpm and results were the same.
This combined with my TF-1 shows I had no TV boost at any level. The 3rd picture is my problems areas, now to diagnose further. VB is on the workbench and I’ll be disassembling the valves and problem areas
That’s not the main issue but it is adding to the issue.
So my testing procedure for my 2-3 flare was to check TV boost. I put the jeep in D and hooked up a gauge to the Line Pressure/accumulator port and set the jeep to 1,000 rpm just so it’s not idling. I then took the TV cable (runs from the Throttle Body to the transmission) and removed the spring that goes on the TV lever on the transmission.
I pushed it all the way to the front of the jeep (minimum tv) and then all the way to the rear (maximum tv). The minimum for my jeep should be 80-90PSI. Maximum should be 36-42psi higher
My psi was Min 88 and Max 90
I went to 1,500rpm and results were the same.
This combined with my TF-1 shows I had no TV boost at any level. The 3rd picture is my problems areas, now to diagnose further. VB is on the workbench and I’ll be disassembling the valves and problem areas
protip: video you disassembling the valve body. Those springs have a way of coming out before you're ready to take a pic and then you're left wondering how you had it.
The valve orientations is a tricky thing... the FSM has some mistakes, especially the throttle plunger & sleeve which resulted in me having the reverse problem as you; I was always at min throttle pressure where as you are always at max throttle pressure. Now the fact that part of that shift kit involves fully tightening down the pressure screw is something I didn't have to contend with, but it would seem like whatever the shift kit does to counteract that isn't doing it's job.
I also find it amusing that the valve body relies on different pressures in different areas, but not one bit of it is actually sealed. It's all just cover plates held on by screws torqued to like 35 inch-lbs. Those areas have to bleed pressure like crazy. But I guess it's not enough to matter. Even the transfer plate, which is the only thing that keeps the passages distinct, is only held down by a couple of screws. It could easily flex slightly and allow crosstalk among the passages. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
The valve orientations is a tricky thing... the FSM has some mistakes, especially the throttle plunger & sleeve which resulted in me having the reverse problem as you; I was always at min throttle pressure where as you are always at max throttle pressure. Now the fact that part of that shift kit involves fully tightening down the pressure screw is something I didn't have to contend with, but it would seem like whatever the shift kit does to counteract that isn't doing it's job.
I also find it amusing that the valve body relies on different pressures in different areas, but not one bit of it is actually sealed. It's all just cover plates held on by screws torqued to like 35 inch-lbs. Those areas have to bleed pressure like crazy. But I guess it's not enough to matter. Even the transfer plate, which is the only thing that keeps the passages distinct, is only held down by a couple of screws. It could easily flex slightly and allow crosstalk among the passages. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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