Jeep Jeffrey

[Christian.mers]

I have no idea what to charge. I know shops in my area are charging $180-250 per hour for repairs. And for me being a guy in my garage I'd guess it'd take 2-3 hours to cut the old stuff off and then weld on the new brackets.

And the little HF Flux Core welder isn't large enough to weld those brackets onto your axle. The only other thing you could do to make things easier and maybe cheaper is to pull the front axle out and take it to a shop to do the work. That might save you a little money.

Seems like a reasonable price to me, I wasn’t expecting it cheap and I have the money, I just wasn’t sure if it was overpriced or anything like that.

I didn’t think the little welder was good enough either. It’s only 125 amps and maxes out around 3/16” thick steel

 

[Wildman]

I think it's a good price for the amount of work. If he'll stick to that price I'd pull the trigger.

Yes it's not large enough. You need a 220V machine that can do over 200 amps for proper penetration.

 

[AirborneTexasRanger]

Seems like a reasonable price to me, I wasn’t expecting it cheap and I have the money, I just wasn’t sure if it was overpriced or anything like that.

I didn’t think the little welder was good enough either. It’s only 125 amps and maxes out around 3/16” thick steel

I think it's a reasonable price & his welds look good. You can tell he takes pride in his work.

There's plenty of YouTube channels which can help you weld when you're ready to learn. It's not difficult, it just takes a lot of practice.

 

[Christian.mers]

Got my bracket welded in about a month ago but never updated you all. I just decided to go with that guy and he charged $500, came to me and only took a couple of hours. 1 year warranty against cracks of breaks so that’s nice.

Since then I replaced my TPS from NGK to Mopar and that made a world of difference, I never understood why you guys constantly say to buy Mopar sensors but the jeep hasn’t ran this good even before I bought it. I also adjusted my TV and that made driving so much more enjoyable. I no longer have to slam my foot down when leaving a stop light or stop sign. I fear that the TV being misadjusted messed up my hydraulic pressure within my trans and must’ve blown out a pump seal or something. I’ve been having issues with my trans for some time and it’s definitely due for a rebuild. The pan has been leaking as well and that has been determined to be an over tightening issue which bent all of the bolt holes in on the pan causing bigger than usual holes for the gasket to fill. LubeLocker Gasket is on the way, new fluid and filter are ready to go on and I’ve got plenty of brake clean.

Pretty sure one of the bolt holes is stripped as well, any advice? Heli coil?

 

[Christian.mers]

Had a starter issue with my Mopar starter so I made a trip to Autozone. I got a new starter which fit perfectly but upon every start I was getting a chirp and squealing noise. I bought some shims for a GM (I couldn’t find any for my application and I fully intended to alter them however I needed) from Advanced Auto but ultimately decided to not even try to make this starter work after I realized they sold a remanufactured option. If I’m spending the money for a new (or new to me) starter then I want it to fit properly the first time I put it in there. Got the starter tested a few times and every time it passed as no issues. Fast forward 1 week and I take the starter back and buy this one which is in fact remanufactured so it will fit properly. Bolted it up and it starts up perfectly fine, exactly what you want from a nice healthy starter.

 

[hear]

I’ve been having issues with my trans for some time and it’s definitely due for a rebuild.

What sorts of issues? I mean, you're in the right place for that job, but it needs to be necessary. (btw your oil looks pretty rough).

Pretty sure one of the bolt holes is stripped as well, any advice? Heli coil?

Helicoil is great, but one or two of the holes on mine are through and through, so I have a nut on the other side.

 

[Christian.mers]

Also had to change my gear oil for my Dana 35. We’ve had some storms lately and it’s been raining a lot. The only thing I can think of is my Breather was not secured properly high enough and water splashed up and got into my diff. I ordered a lube locker gasket for my Front and rear diff but for the meantime I put some 80W-90 in there until my gaskets come in and then I’ll be doing front and rear with 75W-140. Might be overkill because I daily this thing but I’m tired of crap falling apart on me and if I spend a couple extra bucks and stay on top of maintenance it should last?

It took about an hour and I used a Mahle gasket because I couldn’t get felpro. I’ve never used any other gasket than Fel-Pro, should be good till my lubelocker comes in. New plug too, just because

 

[hear]

I'd be much more suspect of my seals than I would be of the breather sucking in splashed water.

 

[Christian.mers]

What sorts of issues? I mean, you're in the right place for that job, but it needs to be necessary. (btw your oil looks pretty rough).

Helicoil is great, but one or two of the holes on mine are through and through, so I have a nut on the other side.

My oil is my main reason. This pictures is on my first transmission fluid change since I got the jeep. I dropped it and it looked awful so I replaced the gasket and filter and cleaned it spotless, absolutely nothing on the gasket mating surfaces. 2 weeks later my transmission fluid ran low, it threw a tcc solenoid code, I check fluid and there was almost none on the dipstick. Turns out there was a leak at the rear of the pan and it had been dripping into the skid and just collecting in there and it was raining a lot so I thought “hey, that puddle under my jeep is transmission or oil, it’s just rain”

Turns out it wasn’t rain and I over tightened the pan bolts past 13 ft-l s. A costly mistake for certain. The fluid was leaking out between the bolt holes because the pan bolt holes were bent inwards towards the transmission. I didn’t notice the pan was bent and bought a fel pro gasket and refilled it to the top of the max line. I thought surely I smacked the gasket or didn’t seat it properly, it was just the pan bent. My pan is still bent so when my LubeLocker transmission gasket comes in I’ll be setting a piece of wood under the pan bolt holes and tapping them back down from above and then checking them with a straight edge and a feeler gauge. I’m tired of fooling around with it.

On top of the bad fluid and leaks which are both my fault, I bought it with the TV too tight and I had been driving this whole time pumping the wrong hydraulic pressure in. My shift to reverse takes about 5 seconds to engage (I attributed to bad U-Joints because I have slop in the drive shaft), manually shifting to 1 allows me to move forward 5 feet then abruptly stops like I slammed on my brakes. I still have to get up to 2-2.5k rpm to really move around.



I’ll have to search for Through holes. I think that’s exactly where mine is because I remember trying to thread chase it hoping there wasn’t crap in the threads preventing me from tightening the bolt. It’ll thread in but at a certain point it gets to righty loosey and only tightens to a little under tight. Not 13ft-lbs tight.

Attached is a few pictures of my 2nd fluid change and attempt to fix the leak which was 2 weeks after the first picture above

 

[Christian.mers]

I'd be much more suspect of my seals than I would be of the breather sucking in splashed water.

Interesting, what seals should I be looking at. I have no experience with axles, gears, or anything on that nature yet

 

[Christian.mers]

I’m also leaking here and it’s most definitely transmission fluid. I’ve been looking around and I’m thinking It’s something to do with my pump and seals but I’m still Very uneducated when it comes to transmissions

 

[Christian.mers]

Also have my brand new (January 1st) oil pan Gasket leaking.

I attribute this to a stripped thread. In this picture you see where the bolt goes into the engine block. I would’ve heli coiled this while the engine was out but this bolt goes in behind the timing cover and I have absolutely no experience with timing and didn’t want to mess anything up. My oil pan is leaking up by my harmonic balancer as well as in the rear. Not on the sides though. These are the typical leak spots but I didn’t know that when I replaced this gasket. I’ve learned a lot since then.

Any thoughts on how to repair this? Should I pop the timing cover and replace all my timing components and try to retap and heli coil?

 

[Christian.mers]

It finally kicked the bucket @hear

I was driving down the road and the gears seemed to be moving a lot faster than or Al but the jeep was accelerating about 1/2 what it normally does, I slow down and stop and I start smoking a little bit. It’s definetly transmission fluid. I stop and I can move at all, no amount of gas picks up or engages the gears. I notice a lot of smoke starts coming out so I turn it off and put it in neutral and pull out of the way. It’s dead.

 

[Wildman]

Yep I think it's time for a new tranny.... Or you could do a V-8 swap...

 

[Christian.mers]

I was leaning more towards V8 because I can get an amazing running and driving donor for less than $1,000

The only issue is money, it’s all a money issue.

 

[Christian.mers]

Rebuild this tranny? Or buy another that works and rebuild this as a spare?

 

[hear]

Rebuilding this transmission will cost you $125 for the banner rebuild kit and like $175 for a new torque converter. Another $50 for a deep pan with a drain plug. I don't need to tell you what I would do.

 

[Wildman]

I was leaning more towards V8 because I can get an amazing running and driving donor for less than $1,000

The only issue is money, it’s all a money issue.

What platform are you talking about?? Magnum? LS? Hemi? That would help to know to offer any advice as to cost..

Rebuild this tranny? Or buy another that works and rebuild this as a spare?

If you've got the time for it to be down then rebuild the current transmission. If you need it NOW then pickup a rebuilt unit and keep the current one as a spare.

Rebuilding this transmission will cost you $125 for the banner rebuild kit and like $175 for a new torque converter. Another $50 for a deep pan with a drain plug. I don't need to tell you what I would do.

Well I know which way you swing...... OOPS I mean lean....

4 popper & auto is just anemic so even for those prices I'd still do a Magnum V-8 swap.

 

[Christian.mers]

Rebuilding this transmission will cost you $125 for the banner rebuild kit and like $175 for a new torque converter. Another $50 for a deep pan with a drain plug. I don't need to tell you what I would do.

Where would you source your toque converter? Ebay?

I’ve got the deep pan on hand, the only reason I didn’t put it on is because the pan does not clear the dropped filter and makes contact with her skid plate when I’m trying to install it so I decided to not put it on so I didn’t have to drop the skid.

I was actually about to install my brand new LubeLocker gasket thanks to you and I’m lucky I didn’t go through all the trouble to drop my pan and put the gasket on just for it to blow up

 

[hear]

For my 32RH's, I've used the Pro-King CR-90 from Advance auto. You'll want to verify what you need for your 30RH (since you have a 4cyl). I don't think I would want a used TC....I like to roll the dice way more than the next guy, but it's a ton of effort to be wrong on that.