05 Flame Red TJ Build

[Alex01]

I was thinking of Moab.

Interesting about only bringing the shorter shaft. I remember someone on the forum installed them on the wrong sides and the short one engaged, but only about half of the splines length.

My Dana 44 came from a 2005 Sport. One shaft is shorter than the other. Not sure if they are the same as the Dana 44 in a Rubicon.

I'm sure that is correct, partial spline engagement, but it's just to get you off the trail. With limited space in the trunk, especially if you have the backseat in for the kids, it makes more sense IMO to bring one that works for both sides vs taking up more space to have both.

That's another $500! Just Empty Every Pocket

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-...0001&campid=5337789113&icep_item=114368820592

The Discovery series has a 15-year replacement warranty. - Whether they are even necessary with 33's though is beyond me.

 

[JMT]

I'm sure that is correct, partial spline engagement, but it's just to get you off the trail. With limited space in the trunk, especially if you have the backseat in for the kids, it makes more sense IMO to bring one that works for both sides vs taking up more space to have both.


https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-...0001&campid=5337789113&icep_item=114368820592

The Discovery series has a 15-year replacement warranty. - Whether they are even necessary with 33's though is beyond me.

Usually the stock shafts of a Dana 44 are sufficient for 33's. It's when you go to 35's you need 4340s. However, the locker may be a factor. I'm not if that changes things due to increased stress. I have not seen this discussed.

On the Dana 30 you need 4340's when you run 33's AND a locker. Ask me how I know. That is something I missed on the forum when I added the PowerTrax No Slip. I'm all set in that department now, of course.

EDIT: That's pretty cheap for Revolution axles! Very tempting for extra insurance.

 

[TJustin]

What about these?

https://www.customwheelsexpress.com...G_-21HhBobzT5H5-MzYzACuhFRVCnDl0aArx4EALw_wcB

Chalk up another vote for Walker Evans. Probably my favorite style of wheel. Recently bought these, and love them.

 

[JMT]

Chalk up another vote for Walker Evans. Probably my favorite style of wheel. Recently bought these, and love them.

View attachment 193420

Great looking rig!

I was just looking at those last night, again! I think I like the 501's in Satin Graphite Face with Satin Black Lip.

 

[bobthetj03]

Great looking rig!

I was just looking at those last night, again! I think I like the 501's in Satin Graphite Face with Satin Black Lip.

Now that's a wheel I can sign off on! Would look good on a white TJ as well!

 

[Irun]

the MTR and the Nitto are C's. then Mickey Thompson, Dick Cepic and Cooper make some D's.

A little behind here, but I switched to a beadlock wheel (17") last year and struggled to find C or D rated tires. MT/R was the only C choice I found and those don't do well in my area. I ultimately settled on a Mickey Thompson D rated MTZ P3

 

[JMT]

I'm getting harmonic oscillating vibes coming from my rear driveshaft. I have the 6-Speed (NSG370) with the Savvy MUA, Adams DC Driveshaft, which I installed back in April or so. I rarely get over 60mph, and when I originally set the angles I drove it up to 60+ without the skid plate installed, just the crossmember, and no vibes. A couple of days ago I messed with my pinion angles with only slight changes in the onset of vibes. Currently my pinion is 17* and my shaft is 17.8* and vibes kick in at 62mph. Any ideas?

 

[JDS123]

Check the slip joints on your Adam's shafts. I blew through 5 total shafts in about 25,000 miles when I used Adams. Most of the time my front slip joint was bad.

 

[bobthetj03]

Try lowering the pinion angle a little more. Mine seems happiest about 2* lowering than the DS. Mine is at 17*. Still vibes above 65mph a little. Oh, and I've been thru 3 Adams shafts.

 

[starkey480]

So you tested it without the front driveshaft in to rule that out?

 

[JMT]

So you tested it without the front driveshaft in to rule that out?

No. Thought about it, but haven’t had the time. Never had vibes before up to 95mph

 

[JMT]

Dana 30 Diff fluid looked perfect, but look at this and tell me what’s wrong.

 

[Apparition]

Dana 30 Diff fluid looked perfect, but look at this and tell me what’s wrong.

View attachment 194839

View attachment 194840

View attachment 194841

I can’t fully tell but did they reverse the V and W caps?

 

[JMT]

I can’t fully tell but did they reverse the V and W caps?

Good eye. It’s very hard to see. They installed the bearing caps on the wrong side and upside down. I didn’t change them bc it’s been performing perfectly for 12,000 miles, and no metal shavings in the oil, so why change something?!

 

[Apparition]

Good eye. It’s very hard to see. They installed the bearing caps on the wrong side and upside down. I didn’t change them bc it’s been performing perfectly for 12,000 miles, and no metal shavings in the oil, so why change something?!

I agree with not fixing if there’s no problem. I’d be pissed if I paid for that. I’d be talking with the installer so they are prepared in the event of a problem to step up.

 

[starkey480]

No. Thought about it, but haven’t had the time. Never had vibes before up to 95mph

I would definitely take that out to determine which shaft is vibrating. You may be lucky and just need a new ujoint somewhere

 

[JDS123]

How many miles on the Adam's shafts? I've had some of their shafts cause vibrations in under 3,000 miles, all on road. This is back when I ran a stock skid plate and only a 3" lift.

A few shafts in, Adam's became suspicious that something was wrong with my setup. I took it to an Adam's verified installer to have everything checked. They said nothing was wrong at all and ordered a new shaft under warranty. I even drove an hour back to have them install the 8 bolts for the driveshaft. That shaft was causing vibrations only 5,000 miles later when I went in for the frame swap. Came out with two new TW shafts and plenty of miles later I'm still vibe free, even with steeper angles.

 

[JMT]

How many miles on the Adam's shafts? I've had some of their shafts cause vibrations in under 3,000 miles, all on road. This is back when I ran a stock skid plate and only a 3" lift.

A few shafts in, Adam's became suspicious that something was wrong with my setup. I took it to an Adam's verified installer to have everything checked. They said nothing was wrong at all and ordered a new shaft under warranty. I even drove an hour back to have them install the 8 bolts for the driveshaft. That shaft was causing vibrations only 5,000 miles later when I went in for the frame swap. Came out with two new TW shafts and plenty of miles later I'm still vibe free, even with steeper angles.

I got this shaft second hand. I know the guy, but he doesn’t live here. I originally wanted a TW, but $75 for an Adams at the right length was too good to pass up.

 

[JMT]

I agree with not fixing if there’s no problem. I’d be pissed if I paid for that. I’d be talking with the installer so they are prepared in the event of a problem to step up.

The gears were set up by Just Jeeps in Austin, TX. I’ve had no problem and they do a LOT of installs. They warrantied the gears I carried in off the street for 1 year or 12,000 miles. Good guys. Very knowledgeable. There were some other interesting things about the install. No break in period. They said you are good to wheel immediately. Said they used some chemical on the R&P so not necessary. I’ve been trouble free. Changed the gear oil after 500 mi. The bearing cap thing made me wonder if there is something I don’t know that they know, as far as significance of keeping the original orientation.

 

[Mike_H]

So...here is my theory. I hope it helps ease your mind. Those marks are put in at the factory, when the diff is assembled. All the parts are new and orientation doesn't matter at that point. Those marks are for the future. When/if that diff is taken apart you need to note orientation because as things wear, you want to keep them with their mates.

Since you most likely had new bearings and races installed, you've effectively "reset" the diff, so orientation of the caps doesn't matter again. Now, because they've already been marked, you'd think they'd install them where they were, but it isn't a huge deal right now. Once you pull the caps for some reason, you'll have to remark them... You want to make sure they stay in the same orientation now.