Savvy Mid-Arm and Tummy Tuck Questions

[TJ1014]

Hello all,
I am new to this forum and I have some questions regarding some savvy products. I was looking into the Savvy tummy tuck for my '01 TJ and it doesn't appear to be available any more? Is there another one out there comparable? Lastly, will the mid-arm kit work with Core 44's as I was interested in upgrading my suspension to either the currie 4" double adjustable or savvy mid-arm along with some upgraded axles to replace my stock Dana 30 & Dana 35? Any input will be greatly appreciated.

 

[Steel City 06]

I believe the early TJ Savvy skids were discontinued due to low order volumes.

Undercover Fabworks makes several skids that will work with your TJ. The 3/8” aluminum ultra-high clearance skid should be equivalent in performance to the Savvy skid, though the crossmember is integral (like factory) and not separate. You would need a 1.25” body lift (I recommend Savvy; avoid JKS) to fit the skid.

The short arm and mid-arm lifts are very different in how they perform. The Savvy short arm is a good bolt-on kit that is very similar to the Currie, except that all arms are double adjustable and made from aluminum.

The Savvy mid-arm kit requires a significant amount of welding and should outperform any short arm kit. Generally it is used with a lot of other modifications, like outboarded and raised shock mounts and other significant geometry changes.

 

[tworley]

Took 5 years to sell 50 units IIRC. Also, if you dont know what you are trying to solve with a midarm, then stick with the short arm kit.

And bragging pic because I am one of 50 Early TJs with a savvy tuck

 

[joe98tj]

How crazy do you get out in texas? Its a decent amount more expensive but I run the clayton transfer case/engine skid system. Its no tuck but it saves effort in fabbing up the tummy tuck/installing a body lift and motor mount lift. It also has a cross member that stays in place so you can remove the skids with the transfer case mount still in place. It doesn't save the 2 inches or so from the tummy tuck but the flat bottom is good to slide over rocks and it can really take a beating. Just another option but costly.

 

[TJ1014]

I believe the early TJ Savvy skids were discontinued due to low order volumes.

Undercover Fabworks makes several skids that will work with your TJ. The 3/8” aluminum ultra-high clearance skid should be equivalent in performance to the Savvy skid, though the crossmember is integral (like factory) and not separate. You would need a 1.25” body lift (I recommend Savvy; avoid JKS) to fit the skid.

The short arm and mid-arm lifts are very different in how they perform. The Savvy short arm is a good bolt-on kit that is very similar to the Currie, except that all arms are double adjustable and made from aluminum.

The Savvy mid-arm kit requires a significant amount of welding and should outperform any short arm kit. Generally it is used with a lot of other modifications, like outboarded and raised shock mounts and other significant geometry changes.

Thanks! I'm looking at them now.

 

[Chris]

What are you attempting to solve with a mid-arm?

 

[Chris]

Took 5 years to sell 50 units IIRC. Also, if you dont know what you are trying to solve with a midarm, then stick with the short arm kit.

And bragging pic because I am one of 50 Early TJs with a savvy tuck

View attachment 208829

Better hope you don’t destroy it. Won’t be easy to find a replacement

 

[TJ1014]

Took 5 years to sell 50 units IIRC. Also, if you dont know what you are trying to solve with a midarm, then stick with the short arm kit.

And bragging pic because I am one of 50 Early TJs with a savvy tuck

View attachment 208829

Nice!!! Did Savvy use 1/4" or 3/8" think aluminum? The UCF has both options but the down side IMO is the crossmember is integral just as Steel City stated.

 

[Steel City 06]

Nice!!! Did Savvy use 1/4" or 3/8" think aluminum? The UCF has both options but the down side IMO is the crossmember is integral just as Steel City stated.

Savvy uses 1/4” aluminum on both the transfer case skid and the engine skid. The reason I would recommend 3/8” aluminum on the UCF is that the Savvy skid is built with significant additional bracing that the UCF does not have. The extra thickness should account for most of that difference.

I believe UCF aluminum engine skids are all 1/4”, which is the same as Savvy. The UCF aluminum and Savvy engine skids are nearly identical in design from what recall. Go with whichever is easier to order.

 

[SvtLdr]

The Savvy skid is 1/4" IIRC.

 

[TJ1014]

What are you attempting to solve with a mid-arm?

At this point nothing. I bought this jeep a couple years back and someone had put a 4" short arm lift, 1-2" body lift with 35's. its a turd right now with the stock Dana 30 & 35. i haven't had much experience wheeling it yet as i know it will break in its current state. Just want to build a capable yet reliable rig that the family and i can enjoy. i would like to do my best to build it right the first time. i have been reading up on a lot of different setups and this Savvy Mid-arm keeps making it to the top of the list. Originally I was leaning towards the Currie setup. BTW I really like how you built your jeep!

 

[Paradiddle]

I'd stick to short arm, unless you can get your Jeep to So Cal and have Blaine build it for you. I ran the Currie short arm for years in JV. It works great. The Savvy is essentially the same lift. And a belly up make a huge difference in the rocks.

 

[Nickgsjeep]

At this point nothing. I bought this jeep a couple years back and someone had put a 4" short arm lift, 1-2" body lift with 35's. its a turd right now with the stock Dana 30 & 35. i haven't had much experience wheeling it yet as i know it will break in its current state. Just want to build a capable yet reliable rig that the family and i can enjoy. i would like to do my best to build it right the first time. i have been reading up on a lot of different setups and this Savvy Mid-arm keeps making it to the top of the list. Originally I was leaning towards the Currie setup. BTW I really like how you built your jeep!

The way I understand it is you don’t need the mid arm until you do. But if you don’t know you need it and just want it then by all means indulge. My intentions were to have an over built trail rig that can more than handle the places I go wheeling here in Southern California and have impeccable road manners. I take my family wheeling with me most of the time and that is also a factor. Most times we are just trying to get away from town. After quite a few discussions with @mrblaine I went with the Savvy 4 inch lift and the Savvy under armor. All short arms, double adjustable. With the 01 I know you are limited on belly up skids. If I decide later that a mid arm is needed for my wheeling then I’m all set up to go. Something you’ll find on this forum that I love is there are a lot of build threads that revolve around a build philosophy, meaning there is an intention behind the build. Ask yourself what are your intentions and the answers will come

 

[mrblaine]

I'd stick to short arm, unless you can get your Jeep to So Cal and have Blaine build it for you. I ran the Currie short arm for years in JV. It works great. The Savvy is essentially the same lift. And a belly up make a huge difference in the rocks.

That is a fairly broad assumption that should not be.

 

[SvtLdr]

Which part Blaine? There's kind of a lot packed in there...

 

[Paradiddle]

Which part Blaine? There's kind of a lot packed in there...

The part about him building it. My bad.

 

[Irun]

Since you're just getting into this keep it simple. First, get the belly up as high as you can, without having to do major modifications. I've run both the early Savvy skid and UCF. Since the early Savvy skid isn't available, UCF is your next best choice. You won't have the crossmember Savvy supplies, but will be able to net around 18" of transfer case skid clearance on 33" tires. It will require a body lift, so go with the Savvy 1.25" version. Also, while your in there, do yourself a favor and install the Savvy cable shifter. You'll kick yourself in the rear if you don't.

Second, run a good double adjustable short arm, i.e. Savvy. It makes setting the pinion angle much easier. Make sure that you couple the SA with a set of good shocks.

Third, keep the weight down, wherever possible, and get bumpers that offer protection, without sacrificing approach or departure angles.

Obviously, this is very general in nature and there's a little bit more to address, e.g. steering, brakes, etc. However, if you keep the weight of the vehicle down, install quality parts, while improving break-over, approach, and departure angles, you won't be disappointed.

 

[DEValken]

BTW I really like how you built your jeep!

He's had a lot of practice building jeeps. A lot. Give it a few months, you can own it...

 

[B00mb00m]

Nice!!! Did Savvy use 1/4" or 3/8" think aluminum? The UCF has both options but the down side IMO is the crossmember is integral just as Steel City stated.

Do one of the weld in ones from Clayton or Genright or DIY, then you can run any skid you want.
@mrblaine if he made his own crossmember for the 01 could he adapt the later Savvy skid to work?

 

[Irun]

He's had a lot of practice building jeeps. A lot. Give it a few months, you can own it...

There might be some supporting data behind this. However, he's now been bitten by the rock crawling bug and that has made him a changed man!