What have you 3D printed for your TJ?
- Thread starter chimmike
- Start date
I had a steering part printed when I restored my brothers old RC Jeep
It's held up great but I haven't printed anything for my Jeep.
It's held up great but I haven't printed anything for my Jeep.
I use Hubs and Xometry quite a bit. Their instant quotes are usually reasonable(for small parts) considering the price of a printer than can sinter metal. They can do pretty much anything else as well such as CNC.
I'd imagine software licenses for SolidWorks, Solidedge, and AutoCad are quite pricey; my employer covers the costs on these but I think they offer limited time trial versions for free.
The hardest part for printing for your jeep is the temps it has to endure.
ABS can usually survive the temps with no load. But with any weight hanging on it, it can deform. It's also not great to print with cause of the fumes.
PLA is much nicer to print with but gives up it's rigidity fast in temperature. You can anneal it and it roughly holds up.
PETG can usually do fine with medium load. Not the easiest or nicest to print with. But a water bottle holds up in the car and so can it.
ABS can usually survive the temps with no load. But with any weight hanging on it, it can deform. It's also not great to print with cause of the fumes.
PLA is much nicer to print with but gives up it's rigidity fast in temperature. You can anneal it and it roughly holds up.
PETG can usually do fine with medium load. Not the easiest or nicest to print with. But a water bottle holds up in the car and so can it.
You can get an Autocad Fusion 360 license for $330/yr or a Solidworks for around $5500 plus a yearly update fee. They are cheap compared to a dressed up seat in Mastercam that will run 30k plus the yearly update charge. Most of the software now has a relatively low cost to get a basic copy, but if you actually want to use it you have to buy multiple add-ons that are usually more expensive than the base software.
I have a few printed parts on the Jeep, but I mostly use the printer to prototype. I typically print in PETG and have had relatively good luck with the parts holding up. I think right now I have a couple of brackets on my fuse box under the hood that have been there for 6 months or so and haven't deformed yet. I also have a shift knob, switch plate brackets, speaker grills, sensor mounts, pull handle for the tumble seat, cell phone mount as well as others I'm sure I have forgotten. I have prototypes for the shifter I made for the 3550, fuel pump hanger, overhead switch panel, cb mount bar, defrost grille, throttle body, also many brackets. I can print them out cheap, check fitment and such, then decide whether to make a part or not. That has been the most useful for me.
Do you guys know of 3D scanners to compliment the printers you are using? I have been trying to make an exact copy of a simple plastic part forever and no dice so far.
if you have a newer ipad pro or something, there is inexpensive/free software you can use to 3d scan things via the ipad pro.
That pump module is impressive.
ejay
TJ Addict
Scans still need to be cleaned up in software in order to print. A lot of times they'll scan to a hatch and you have to make a solid using the scan as a base. No solid hatches...lol I've replicated entire PCB with components in AutoCAD from scratch using nothing but a micrometer in order to make housings. Sometimes it's easier than trying to convert a hollow scan.
Don't expect to be able to use SolidWorks, AutoCAD, or CATIA without some fundamental knowledge. I've got certifications as a SolidWorks Certified Professional and a AutoCAD Certified Professional and worked in industries using both softwares (mostly AutoCAD) and still feel underqualified for some 3D modeling and assemblies.
Don't expect to be able to use SolidWorks, AutoCAD, or CATIA without some fundamental knowledge. I've got certifications as a SolidWorks Certified Professional and a AutoCAD Certified Professional and worked in industries using both softwares (mostly AutoCAD) and still feel underqualified for some 3D modeling and assemblies.
ejay
TJ Addict
I've also printed prototype parts for vehicles. I was able to be part of a team that printed a prototype supercharger mock-up for the first 2014 C7 Stingray for Magnuson. Just to check design fit and clearances.
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I've heard that PETG is actually easier to print than ABS. I found some cheapie PETG off amazon not terribly difficult. I'm using a really basic low-end machine but with cura software it's proven to do a nice job with some tweaks (ender 3 pro).
I have printed both and ABS is a pain. It has a burnt plastic smell when printing. ABS also seems to want to warp and detach from the print bed easier than PETG. The difference in durability is negligible for my uses. I prototype everything in PLA as the print times are faster and the failure rate is much lower. I have some really cheap Amazon filament as well as some high quality stuff, I can't really tell much of a difference.
I bet that's how the angry bird grill was invented...someone holed up in their dark basement with a 3-D printer while withdrawing from meth?
I printed some axle tube guards today. They are not sealed and I know they won't keep everything out, but not unlike the factory plastic ones they will keep the big stuff out.
Always wanted a 3D printer but haven't figured out anything I'd make with it.
One of the guys who worked for me at my last job had a 3D printer on his desk and would make parts with it, I never figured out anything he could make for me either.
Someday maybe.
One of the guys who worked for me at my last job had a 3D printer on his desk and would make parts with it, I never figured out anything he could make for me either.
Someday maybe.
What sort of plastic did you use for that? It'll be interesting to see how it holds up