OP
That’s done.
Yes, those are Adel clamps, and that’s essentially my plan.
When I get it done I’ll be ready to splice my fuel pump wires into the existing harness at the frame rail. I hope that’s soon!
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- Thread starter JMT
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Yes, those are Adel clamps, and that’s essentially my plan.
When I get it done I’ll be ready to splice my fuel pump wires into the existing harness at the frame rail. I hope that’s soon!
OP
I flirted with all the locations to mount the locker switch. Best place in my opinion is the knee blocker on the right side of the steering wheel. The back of the switch unplugs the wiring, so I could still easily access behind the panel.
Perfect. I have a couple of issues with the stock fuel/brake/wiring location. The acute issue is they need to be pushed out of the way to weld in the Genright crossmember. I thought about moving them on top of the frame rail now that the body lift is in. I like the adel clamp idea, probably on the upper inboard side to clear the yet to come elevated body mounts.
OP
Locker switch mounted. There’s enough room for another bank if I decide to swap the front PowerTrax Locker for an Eaton E-Locker.
nice thread, im going through a lot of similar things myself and getting great ideas here
@LJonloan as will be running wires during transmission swap should consider this? Don’t have raised body mounts but body lift gives room maybe?
OP
You’ll have room with a body lift. I’m not done with this yet, but so far this is where my lines are after today.
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OP
P.s. it’s not necessary to move the lines on top of the rail. I did so because they have always been in the way of my Savvy MUA crossmember braces and it will help prep for a future midarm if I go that direction.
You’ll have 4-wires going from the TCase back to the fuel pump (to the fuel pump connector). There’s no reason to drop the tank to replace it with the new harness. Just splice into them at the rail. Make sure and stagger the cuts at least as much as a butt connector length so they will all fit tidy within the loom.
Blaine told me about non-insulated butt connectors covered with adhesive lined shrink wrap to make connections. Using Klein wire crimpers/strippers they work fantastic.
https://www.sherco-auto.com/non-insulated-terminals.html
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084GDLSCK?tag=wranglerorg-20
Forged Wire Strippers Wire Stripper/Cutter/Crimper, 10-18 Awg Stranded https://www.lowes.com/pd/Klein-Tool...-Cutter-Crimper-10-18-Awg-Stranded/5014305451
Yes MrBlaine already shared advice to splice those wires. Already have Savvy tuck and mid-arm is a dream item so might as well do it. I picked up these but will admit at least partially was from seeing Robby Layton plug them on his YouTube channel so not sure they are right things for this job. https://solderstick.com/products/so...der-wire-connector-kit?variant=37378635923622
OP
You may have to get another switch panel bezel if you don’t have room for the OD switch because the factory switches click into a part that’s built into the switch panel. The OD switch only fits in the second bank from the right due to a slot on the side of the bank that fits a ridge on the switch. Unless someone knows something I don’t know.
OP
No, those suck donkey balls. I have the same set and I’m throwing it away. Send those back where you got them. You don’t want soldered connections on an automobile because they vibrate and crack. They’re also a lot more time consuming to use. Get something like the ones I linked to.
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
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OP
I think he still needs a stock bank to use the stock OD switch due to how they click in on top and bottom. But yes, filing that ridge off would enable him to use another bank.
If he needs more stock banks I think there’s a 97-02 option with 6 banks (3 on left + 3 on right).
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I was able to get my fuel pump connector free enough that I didn’t have to splice the wires. I’m running a savvy skid that uses a zip tie to hold the connector in place anyway.
I try to avoid splices as much as possible. Just like in plumbing, any extra joint is an extra failure mode. YMMV
OP
Fed Ex sucks. I don’t know how many times I’ve seen their shipping delays on this forum and now I’m getting shipping delays. They seem really unorganized. Orders take really odd routes. Hopefully my AC Evap arrives. Scheduled for Monday, re-scheduled for Tuesday, now re-re-scheduled for Wednesday.
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
I think he still needs a stock bank to use the stock OD switch due to how they click in on top and bottom. But yes, filing that ridge off would enable him to use another bank.
If he needs more stock banks I think there’s a 97-02 option with 6 banks (3 on left + 3 on right).
Ahh, I see. Yes, I think the stock trim bezel would be needed.
TY for the advice on connectors. Was afraid I might have fallen for YouTube ad.
Don’t know if you saw in my thread, but UPS damaged my Valvoline shipment which resulted in delivery of an oil soaked box from MrBlaine and no Valvoline delivery. Still waiting on update from Valvoline when replacement order will be shipped as UPS returned mine to them.
I won’t be putting the OD switch in stock location
Like location you used for locker switch will probably just get switch similar to those used in my center console to mount there.
Don’t know if you saw in my thread, but UPS damaged my Valvoline shipment which resulted in delivery of an oil soaked box from MrBlaine and no Valvoline delivery. Still waiting on update from Valvoline when replacement order will be shipped as UPS returned mine to them.
I won’t be putting the OD switch in stock location
Like location you used for locker switch will probably just get switch similar to those used in my center console to mount there.
OP
I’ve got a lot of little things done that I’ll report on later. I’m about to go night skiing, so this is a quick update.
NSG370 PDC lower removed and put on the 42rle PDC. It was cracked and I wanted an uncracked one. Moved the horn plug from mine over to the new harness because someone had changed it for a different horn evidently. Also took NSG370 battery cables and grounds over from my rig to the new harness. Actually just leaving it in place in my rig and will attach it to the PDC and be G2G. I’m getting close to having the NSG370 harness all removed. Hopefully finish tomorrow and put the new harness in.
One tip. When you pull the old harness make sure and stick a new plugged or bolt zip tie in the appropriate holes or bolts so you don’t forget where they go when you put in the new harness. It should make it really easy to put the new harness in.
One question. I don’t have a fancy rear view mirror. Do I need the ambient temp sensor? All that crap just clutters the headlight area and is difficult to get to in the grille. I’d rather cut it all off unless it serves some other purpose I don’t know about.
NSG370 PDC lower removed and put on the 42rle PDC. It was cracked and I wanted an uncracked one. Moved the horn plug from mine over to the new harness because someone had changed it for a different horn evidently. Also took NSG370 battery cables and grounds over from my rig to the new harness. Actually just leaving it in place in my rig and will attach it to the PDC and be G2G. I’m getting close to having the NSG370 harness all removed. Hopefully finish tomorrow and put the new harness in.
One tip. When you pull the old harness make sure and stick a new plugged or bolt zip tie in the appropriate holes or bolts so you don’t forget where they go when you put in the new harness. It should make it really easy to put the new harness in.
One question. I don’t have a fancy rear view mirror. Do I need the ambient temp sensor? All that crap just clutters the headlight area and is difficult to get to in the grille. I’d rather cut it all off unless it serves some other purpose I don’t know about.
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OP