Got ready to install the Savvy TCase Shifter early morning pre-dawn. Can never sleep past 5am anyway! Broke into the hardware and no cotter pin. Also no instructions. And a strange piece I couldn’t figure out till later. It is pretty self-explanatory, but if you’re following Novak instructions, there are some differences.

Here’s a write-up of how to install this great upgrade. The reason you’d want to do this is primarily because you put a body lift on your rig and it binds the stock TCase Shifter. This happened to me as part of my plan to get up on 33’s, the right way. So a 2.5” OME, 1.25” Savvy BL and 33x12.5r15 Cooper STT Pro’s all installed recently. There are other right ways, but I wanted to leave room for a TT later on, if I choose to go that route. The the only thing left for me was to upgrade my shifting cable system. Then I can get back to wheelin’!

Removal of Stock TCase Shifter
1. Support the transmission at the bell housing with a Jack Stand.
2. Remove 4 transmission mount nuts (1/2”)
3. Use a Jack to support the skid plate
4. Remove the 6 skid plate bolts (18mm)
5. Drip the skid slowly and remove.

This is a good time to prep and paint your skid plate along the frame section where there is often rust. More importantly, do the same to your frame, Semi-Gloss Krylon is the go to for your frame.

6. Pull back your drivers side carpet to reveal the 4 bolts in a rectangular pattern near the console
7. Remove the 4 bolts. This releases the OEM bracket underneath
8. Remove the 2 bolts at 9 and 10:30 O’Clock positions on your TCase that hold the OEM shifter bracket (9/16”)
9. Do whatever it takes to get the stupid OEM shifter out (I.e. yank, twist, curse, whatever works for you, just don’t break anything)
10. Make sure and remove any rubber grommet material that may have remained behind
11. Go drink a beer and call it a day, allowing your paint on your skid and frame to dry

Install of Savvy TCase Shifter

12. Mount rectangular Savvy Bracket underneath (have someone hold it or tape it to the tub, while you put your screw and washers in and go underneath to snuggly put the nuts on underneath)
13. Mount the angled bracket to the TCase at the 9 and 10:30 O’Clock positions using the stock nuts (38ft/lbs)
14. On TCase put the selector in 2H and hold it (toward front of Jeep) while removing the stock nut and washer (9/16”) in order to remove the stock selector bracket.
15. Install the Savvy selector bracket with the slit in the same orientation using the same nut and washer (9/16’)
16. On your Savvy Shifter cable, remove the nut and lock washer on one end.
17. Slip it through the hole in the TCase mounting bracket.
18. Put the nut and lock washer back on to hand tight (should be in about the middle of the adjustable threads)
19. Remove the nut and lock washer on the other end.
20. Slip it through the hole in the Tub mounting bracket
21. Put the nut and lock washer back on to hand tight (middle of the adjustable threads)
22. Keep shifter in 2H for the whole install.
23. Thread the L shaped hardware on the upper end of the Savvy Shifter Cable about half way
24. Adjust accordingly so it will fit perfectly through the stock bracket coming out of your TCase selector.
25. Put the strange aluminum hardware on the threaded portion of your L shaped hardware so that it fills the space where the stock rubber grommet was.
26. On the other side put on the washer and the lock nut hand tight (to tighten use a 3/8” and 1/2”)
27. Tighten nuts with 15/16” on upper end
28. Thread the Clevis pin onto the other end of your Savvy Shifter Cable.
29. Adjust till it fits perfectly (with NO TENSION AT ALL) and slip the pin in. Make sure your selector at the TCase is still in 2H.
30. Check for correct operation (if you have two people it helps, one to shift and one to watch, but it can be done alone). YOu will need to have all 4 wheels off the ground on Jack Stands and make sure your E-Brake is off too. Check 2H (front shaft spins freely, rear locked), 4H (front and rear shafts locked), N (front and rear spin freely), 4L (front and rear shafts locked)
31. If everything works well, put your cotter pin in and tighten every bolt and nut. Don’t forget to tighten your jamb nuts at each end too.
32. Lower Jeep to the ground.
33. Re-install 6 skid plate bolts to 55 ft/lbs
34. Remove Jack Stand holding up Transmission
34. Re-install 4 Transmission mount nuts
35. Go wheel it!

Pics or it didn't happen!
 
Opinion on this placement of a decal. I’m reticent to put many on, but this one I like, just not sure, although it does look pretty racey!
8924E497-92FD-489E-9521-1C774AD7C6DF.jpeg

5426BEF2-92BA-4EB7-8D33-ACD0AF1A5192.jpeg
 
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Got ready to install the Savvy TCase Shifter early morning pre-dawn. Can never sleep past 5am anyway! Broke into the hardware and no cotter pin. Also no instructions. And a strange piece I couldn’t figure out till later. It is pretty self-explanatory, but if you’re following Novak instructions, there are some differences. It all worked out. Email to Savvy for clarification on the cotter pin. I decided to go to town and get one. Michael responded with an email he’s send out ASAP. I called him back and said thank you, but I got one. H-E-B insisted on giving me a discount for my trouble. I insisted not. 30 minutes later he had credited me $10. Fantastic customer service! Go Savvy! @mrblaine also offered to send me a cotter! Very nice folks all-around!

Here’s a write-up of how to install this great upgrade. The reason you’d want to do this is primarily because you put a body lift on your rig and it binds the stock TCase Shifter. This happened to me as part of my plan to get up on 33’s, the right way. So a 2.5” OME, 1.25” Savvy BL and 33x12.5r15 Cooper STT Pro’s all installed recently. There are other right ways, but I wanted to leave room for a TT later on, if I choose to go that route. The the only thing left for me was to upgrade my shifting cable system. Then I can get back to wheelin’!

Removal of Stock TCase Shifter
1. Support the transmission at the bell housing with a Jack Stand.
2. Remove 4 transmission mount nuts (1/2”)
3. Use a Jack to support the skid plate
4. Remove the 6 skid plate bolts (18mm)
5. Drip the skid slowly and remove.

This is a good time to prep and paint your skid plate along the frame section where there is often rust. More importantly, do the same to your frame, Semi-Gloss Krylon is the go to for your frame.

6. Pull back your drivers side carpet to reveal the 4 bolts in a rectangular pattern near the console
View attachment 30170
7. Remove the 4 bolts. This releases the OEM bracket underneath
8. Remove the 2 bolts at 9 and 10:30 O’Clock positions on your TCase that hold the OEM shifter bracket (9/16”)
9. Do whatever it takes to get the stupid OEM shifter out (I.e. yank, twist, curse, whatever works for you, just don’t break anything)
10. Make sure and remove any rubber grommet material that may have remained behind
11. Go drink a beer and call it a day, allowing your paint on your skid and frame to dry

Install of Savvy TCase Shifter

12. Mount rectangular Savvy Bracket underneath (have someone hold it or tape it to the tub, while you put your screw and washers in and go underneath to snuggly put the nuts on underneath)
13. Mount the angled bracket to the TCase at the 9 and 10:30 O’Clock positions using the stock nuts (38ft/lbs)
14. On TCase put the selector in 2H and hold it (toward front of Jeep) while removing the stock nut and washer (9/16”) in order to remove the stock selector bracket.
15. Install the Savvy selector bracket with the slit in the same orientation using the same nut and washer (9/16’)
16. On your Savvy Shifter cable, remove the nut and lock washer on one end.
17. Slip it through the hole in the TCase mounting bracket.
View attachment 30173
18. Put the nut and lock washer back on to hand tight (should be in about the middle of the adjustable threads)
19. Remove the nut and lock washer on the other end.
20. Slip it through the hole in the Tub mounting bracket
21. Put the nut and lock washer back on to hand tight (middle of the adjustable threads)
22. Keep shifter in 2H for the whole install.
23. Thread the L shaped hardware on the upper end of the Savvy Shifter Cable about half way
24. Adjust accordingly so it will fit perfectly through the stock bracket coming out of your TCase selector.
25. Put the strange aluminum hardware on the threaded portion of your L shaped hardware so that it fills the space where the stock rubber grommet was.
View attachment 30172
26. On the other side put on the washer and the lock nut hand tight (to tighten use a 3/8” and 1/2”)
27. Tighten nuts with 15/16” on upper end
28. Thread the Clevis pin onto the other end of your Savvy Shifter Cable.
View attachment 30174
29. Adjust till it fits perfectly (with NO TENSION AT ALL) and slip the pin in. Make sure your selector at the TCase is still in 2H.
30. Check for correct operation (if you have two people it helps, one to shift and one to watch, but it can be done alone). YOu will need to have all 4 wheels off the ground on Jack Stands and make sure your E-Brake is off too. Check 2H (front shaft spins freely, rear locked), 4H (front and rear shafts locked), N (front and rear spin freely), 4L (front and rear shafts locked)
31. If everything works well, put your cotter pin in and tighten every bolt and nut. Don’t forget to tighten your jamb nuts at each end too.
View attachment 30171
32. Lower Jeep to the ground.
33. Re-install 6 skid plate bolts to 55 ft/lbs
34. Remove Jack Stand holding up Transmission
34. Re-install 4 Transmission mount nuts
35. Go wheel it!
Brilliant job @JMT , I’ll be referencing this soon!
 
Can you move it a little to the right?
About 3/4”. It may not be right, which is why I sought your opinions. Thanks!

Also, while I’ve got you’re undivided attention, is the magic eraser good for removing streak marks on doors from branches? I think I remember you being an expert in this too!
 
I’m ready @b0xcar. Let me know when you’re lift, et al, is scheduled. I’m anxious to head your way!

Sometime you’ll have to head my way to Wolf Caves in Mason. BBQafter in Mason.

@TrooperJosh, you want in the game? Hopefully hit Hidden Falls sometime in February, Wolf Caves whenever. It’d be a drive for you.

@Blackoutt, you think you might be up for a run?
 
About 3/4”. It may not be right, which is why I sought your opinions. Thanks!

Also, while I’ve got you’re undivided attention, is the magic eraser good for removing streak marks on doors from branches? I think I remember you being an expert in this too!

I was just kidding, Leave it where it is.

So you could try a magic eraser, but as long as you didn't go through the clear coat I would use 5000 grit sandpaper. One way to tell if you have gone through the clear coat is get a spray bottle and get the streaks wet if they disappear then you didn't go through the clear coat.

Just to clarify, Use wd40 and magic eraser if you are trying to get something off of the paint like boot marks, maybe paint from another car. If you actually have scratches like you do, use 5000 grit sandpaper but not too much you don't want to go through the clear you just want to smooth out the imperfection, or maybe a rubbing compound (rc is like a 5000grit sandpaper). But if you get it wet, and you can still see the scratches there isn't much you can do.
 
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I’m ready @b0xcar. Let me know when you’re lift, et al, is scheduled. I’m anxious to head your way!

Sometime you’ll have to head my way to Wolf Caves in Mason. BBQafter in Mason.

@TrooperJosh, you want in the game? Hopefully hit Hidden Falls sometime in February, Wolf Caves whenever. It’d be a drive for you.

@Blackoutt, you think you might be up for a run?
@JMT hell yeah! If I am on a vacation or am able to take off to one or both of those, Im there! Just need to let me know the dates that get planned.
 
As a fellow Texan (just displaced due to the military), I love a shitty Lone Star. However, Shiner is where it’s at!


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I agree. Where are you TEMPORARILY displaced to?
 
@JMT hell yeah! If I am on a vacation or am able to take off to one or both of those, Im there! Just need to let me know the dates that get planned.
Ok, I’ll let you know. What’s your setup? Looks like 33x’s. Can’t tell what else you’ve go there, although You could resend me to your build thread. Mind just going blank