I can’t tell a difference yet driving on 31’s vs 33’s with the 6-Speed. Actually this has surprised me. I was dreading the loss of performance. No problem cruising up to 70mph and using 6th gear. No problem starting in 2nd. The real test wil come with time I reckon. For now I just rev and go. I’ll check gas mileage too and see if there is loss there.
 
I can’t tell a difference yet driving on 31’s vs 33’s with the 6-Speed. Actually this has surprised me. I was dreading the loss of performance. No problem cruising up to 70mph and using 6th gear. No problem starting in 2nd. The real test wil come with time I reckon. For now I just rev and go. I’ll check gas mileage too and see if there is loss there.

Are you going to fix your speedo? Do a gentle climb at 65 and see where you have to shift to.
 
Are you going to fix your speedo? Do a gentle climb at 65 and see where you have to shift to.
Not if it’s going to mess up my performance! Maybe I’m compensating my driving style, but I didn’t notice. Still have good acceleration. I know I’m ~10 off at 70. LOL

Anyway, right now I’m happy. I climbed a long incline in 6th with the odometer reading 55mph and I was able to gain speed, so I was probably increasing from 63 up to 67.

Wondering if anyone else is running 33’s on the 6-speed with the 3.73 gearing and what their experience is like?
 
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Not if it’s going to mess up my performance! anning on changing speedo. I’m probably changing gears earlier than before, and I know I’m ~10 off at 70. LOL

Anyway, right now I’m happy. I did climb yesterday in 6th on a gentle long incline with the odometer reading 55mph and up
My gear change came quicker than expected on the ax15. I was right about 3300rpms in 3rd at 70mph and it STRUGGLED to do that. Bogged on the highway in 4th. Seems yours is a bit more kind to ya.
 
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My buddy is running 33's with the AX-15 and 3.73 gears. His jeep isn't too bad either. It gets a little doggy once you get into northern michigan hills, but around here, its pretty flat.
 
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Did a little thing today to prep for install tomorrow.

Removed this piece of junk
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Which is not as easy as one would expect!
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Was binding badly due to the dreaded blessed BL. All clear for tomorrow’s Savvy Shifter.
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Workman’s best friend
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I live in wine country, so I'm doomed.
Look up Fredericksburg, TX. It’s known as something like The Little CA. LOL. There can be no less than 75 boutique wineries here along HWY 290. Wine is ok, and I enjoy a good Cab, just not while working on the Jeep! For that I’ll just have a shitty Lone Star
 
Look up Fredericksburg, TX. It’s known as something like The Little CA. LOL. There can be no less than 75 boutique wineries here along HWY 290. Wine is ok, and I enjoy a good Cab, just not while working on the Jeep! For that I’ll just have a shitty Lone Star

I enjoy a nice frosty craft beer after a day of wrenching just as much as the next jeeper.
 
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Got ready to install the Savvy TCase Shifter early morning pre-dawn. Can never sleep past 5am anyway! Broke into the hardware and no cotter pin. Also no instructions. And a strange piece I couldn’t figure out till later. It is pretty self-explanatory, but if you’re following Novak instructions, there are some differences. It all worked out. Email to Savvy for clarification on the cotter pin. I decided to go to town and get one. Michael responded with an email he’s send out ASAP. I called him back and said thank you, but I got one. He insisted on giving me a discount for my trouble. I insisted not. 30 minutes later he had credited me $10. Fantastic customer service! Go Savvy! @mrblaine also offered to send me a cotter! Very nice folks all-around!

Here’s a write-up of how to install this great upgrade. The reason you’d want to do this is primarily because you put a body lift on your rig and it binds the stock TCase Shifter. This happened to me as part of my plan to get up on 33’s, the right way. So a 2.5” OME, 1.25” Savvy BL and 33x12.5r15 Cooper STT Pro’s all installed recently. There are other right ways, but I wanted to leave room for a TT later on, if I choose to go that route. The the only thing left for me was to upgrade my shifting cable system. Then I can get back to wheelin’!

Removal of Stock TCase Shifter
1. Support the transmission at the bell housing with a Jack Stand.
2. Remove 4 transmission mount nuts (1/2”)
3. Use a Jack to support the skid plate
4. Remove the 6 skid plate bolts (18mm)
5. Drip the skid slowly and remove.

This is a good time to prep and paint your skid plate along the frame section where there is often rust. More importantly, do the same to your frame, Semi-Gloss Krylon is the go to for your frame.

6. Pull back your drivers side carpet to reveal the 4 bolts in a rectangular pattern near the console
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7. Remove the 4 bolts. This releases the OEM bracket underneath
8. Remove the 2 bolts at 9 and 10:30 O’Clock positions on your TCase that hold the OEM shifter bracket (9/16”)
9. Do whatever it takes to get the stupid OEM shifter out (I.e. yank, twist, curse, whatever works for you, just don’t break anything)
10. Make sure and remove any rubber grommet material that may have remained behind
11. Go drink a beer and call it a day, allowing your paint on your skid and frame to dry

Install of Savvy TCase Shifter

12. Mount rectangular Savvy Bracket underneath (have someone hold it or tape it to the tub, while you put your screw and washers in and go underneath to snuggly put the nuts on underneath)
13. Mount the angled bracket to the TCase at the 9 and 10:30 O’Clock positions using the stock nuts (38ft/lbs)
14. On TCase put the selector in 2H and hold it (toward front of Jeep) while removing the stock nut and washer (9/16”) in order to remove the stock selector bracket.
15. Install the Savvy selector bracket with the slit in the same orientation using the same nut and washer (9/16’)
16. On your Savvy Shifter cable, remove the nut and lock washer on one end.
17. Slip it through the hole in the TCase mounting bracket.
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18. Put the nut and lock washer back on to hand tight (should be in about the middle of the adjustable threads)
19. Remove the nut and lock washer on the other end.
20. Slip it through the hole in the Tub mounting bracket
21. Put the nut and lock washer back on to hand tight (middle of the adjustable threads)
22. Keep shifter in 2H for the whole install.
23. Thread the L shaped hardware on the upper end of the Savvy Shifter Cable about half way
24. Adjust accordingly so it will fit perfectly through the stock bracket coming out of your TCase selector.
25. Put the strange aluminum hardware on the threaded portion of your L shaped hardware so that it fills the space where the stock rubber grommet was.
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26. On the other side put on the washer and the lock nut hand tight (to tighten use a 3/8” and 1/2”)
27. Tighten nuts with 15/16” on upper end
28. Thread the Clevis pin onto the other end of your Savvy Shifter Cable.
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29. Adjust till it fits perfectly (with NO TENSION AT ALL) and slip the pin in. Make sure your selector at the TCase is still in 2H.
30. Check for correct operation (if you have two people it helps, one to shift and one to watch, but it can be done alone). YOu will need to have all 4 wheels off the ground on Jack Stands and make sure your E-Brake is off too. Check 2H (front shaft spins freely, rear locked), 4H (front and rear shafts locked), N (front and rear spin freely), 4L (front and rear shafts locked)
31. If everything works well, put your cotter pin in and tighten every bolt and nut. Don’t forget to tighten your jamb nuts at each end too.
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32. Lower Jeep to the ground.
33. Re-install 6 skid plate bolts to 55 ft/lbs
34. Remove Jack Stand holding up Transmission
34. Re-install 4 Transmission mount nuts
35. Go wheel it!
 
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