05 Flame Red TJ Build
- Thread starter JMT
- Start date
OP
Nice to see your Jeep in my build thread, since we have been following such a similar build track for a long time now. Great minds think alike...I have to admit though, I copied you on this one....as I was on edge about the TNT and just could never pull the trigger. But the others, I don't think either of us copied one another...Cheers...
Those sliders do look beef! @Ranger_b0b , what are your thoughts on trimming the flare here so it fits flush to the fender?
OP
Good eye @bobthetj03! Not much gets by you, does it! I'm also looking at that. I imagine we both knew that would happen due to sliding the backplate under the flare. I'll probably try to mark it and trim it off. Might have to remove a few more flare scres to move it away from the tub, then trim and wallah!
OP
@Ranger_b0b, I ordered some 1/16" EPDM 60 Durometer Pressure Sealed Adhesive liner to go between the tub and back plate. My body guy said he does not like to put metal to metal. Only$33 before shipping $44 after. Ugh, these things are going to cost $600 before all is said and done...But its better than body work on the tub after hitting a rock though, which will almost certainly happen many times. The tub is weak between the fenders.
http://www.equalseal.com/EPDM-Rubber-s/1967.htm
http://www.equalseal.com/EPDM-Rubber-s/1967.htm
I thought about that... But trimming it means you're trimming the mounting flange. The metal is thicker than the plastic, so there wouldn't be any way to anchor the bottom of the flare.
OP
Who knows. It’s all a risky venture on this issue, probably why neither Jerry nor Blaine responded to my thread on whether rubber welting or silicone bead would be preferred over metal to metal. I figure the best I can do is go with my body guy who’s restored classic cars for years.
OP
As always, I appreciate any and all of your comments. How’s your search for a low mileage mint Flame Red TJ coming?
Good point. Bout the only thing you could do there would be double sided automotive attachment tape, if you had enough contact patch left after trimming to apply it. I've seen my share of factory cladding attached by that stuff to know it holds pretty dang well.
OP
They did look good! But tire envy got me to bump up to 33x12.5. They look good too! Thanks!
OP
Today we took the morning to ride MTB at Flat Rock Ranch in Comfort, Texas. After lunch I worked on prepping for my new JCR Crusader rock sliders.
First, I had to remove the Flare extensions. An 8mm ratchet is a must for this job.
All the people in the Rust Belt will hate me when I say that they all came out perfect.
Nutserts still intact
Drilled the nutserts out
Then I use the same 8 mm ratchet to remove the first bolt on the front flare at the rear and the first bolt on the rear flare at the front. This is to slide the back plate under so they can be held in position for drilling your pilot holes into the tub. These are WW2WW which I highly recommend. There is more tub there than you might realize.
Then I preloaded the backplate. JCR uses a two piece design with the back plate that mounts to the tub and then sliders that mount to the back plate and the underside of the tub. Yes, the stupid nerf bars are still there, but I’ll have to use them for another week or so.
Used the backplate as a guide to drill the holes
Sat the slider on it just to give an idea of the final product. Wife volunteered that they would look awesome and totally transform the Jeep!
The rear most mount on each side will require a nutserts. JCR mention this as necessary for the LJ, but I need it for my TJ because the body panel on the inside won’t accomodate a regular nut and bolt.
These go to my friend Joe on Monday for sand blasting, prep and paint with 2K. Will look perfect
First, I had to remove the Flare extensions. An 8mm ratchet is a must for this job.
All the people in the Rust Belt will hate me when I say that they all came out perfect.
Nutserts still intact
Drilled the nutserts out
Then I use the same 8 mm ratchet to remove the first bolt on the front flare at the rear and the first bolt on the rear flare at the front. This is to slide the back plate under so they can be held in position for drilling your pilot holes into the tub. These are WW2WW which I highly recommend. There is more tub there than you might realize.
Then I preloaded the backplate. JCR uses a two piece design with the back plate that mounts to the tub and then sliders that mount to the back plate and the underside of the tub. Yes, the stupid nerf bars are still there, but I’ll have to use them for another week or so.
Used the backplate as a guide to drill the holes
Sat the slider on it just to give an idea of the final product. Wife volunteered that they would look awesome and totally transform the Jeep!
The rear most mount on each side will require a nutserts. JCR mention this as necessary for the LJ, but I need it for my TJ because the body panel on the inside won’t accomodate a regular nut and bolt.
These go to my friend Joe on Monday for sand blasting, prep and paint with 2K. Will look perfect
Last edited:
b0xcar
TJ Enthusiast
OP
unfortunately, no, paint on Monday and I’ll install them the following Sunday. They are beefy at 46lbs/side
