05 Flame Red TJ Build

[jjvw]

.... The shoulders on those nuts were not really enough IMHO to allow full misalignment of the heim. Thanks for the pic.

They either are or they aren't. At least we know a few ways to find out.

 

[JMT]

SwayLoc hits the bumper when the tire stuffs on each side. I suspected that would happen. Either would work, but would you cut a notch out of the bumper at that spot, or just trim a half inch off all the way to the corner so it looked natural?

 

[DrDmoney]

Can you shorten the links till there’s no contact? If yes what will it do at full droop? If shortening links isn’t possible, I would probably trim the full length to look natural.

 

[JMT]

Can you shorten the links till there’s no contact? If yes what will it do at full droop? If shortening links isn’t possible, I would probably trim the full length to look natural.

I was at the next to shortest link. I trimmed 1/2” inch off, painted it, and put the bumper back on. Can't even tell a difference, but now I don't have to worry about the SwayLoc interfering with the bumper and causing loss of uptravel.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

I was at the next to shortest link. I trimmed 1/2” inch off, painted it, and put the bumper back on. Can't even tell a difference, but now I don't have to worry about the SwayLoc interfering with the bumper and causing loss of uptravel.

View attachment 360262

While reading your previous post I was about to suggest that exact cut, but you beat me to it.

Nicely done.

 

[JMT]

@DrDmoney. This is the SwayLoc at full droop (shock fully extended). I have it on the 2nd hole from the front.

 

[DrDmoney]

@DrDmoney. This is the SwayLoc at full droop (shock fully extended). I have it on the 2nd hole from the front.

View attachment 360396

Have you experimented with the other positions? I used to set the AR in the 2nd and sometimes the third hole (both stiffer) for better on-road drivability, when I installed the SL I used the 2nd hole but have since moved to the lightest setting (end hole) and still enjoy very controlled on-road performance.

 

[bobthetj03]

I haven't experimented with mine either. Mine is on the end hole, and still feels very stable on road.

 

[JMT]

I haven't experimented with mine either. Mine is on the end hole, and still feels very stable on road.

I saw where yours was the other day. I had forgotten you got one. They’re great aren’t they!? I might move mine back and experiment. Right now I’m happy though. Not sure any change will be noticeable.

 

[JMT]

Have you experimented with the other positions? I used to set the AR in the 2nd and sometimes the third hole (both stiffer) for better on-road drivability, when I installed the SL I used the 2nd hole but have since moved to the lightest setting (end hole) and still enjoy very controlled on-road performance.

I haven’t because I don’t see what benefit I can get. Shock is all the way deployed. Springs are almost loose. I can’t move them out of the keeper, but I can tell they are almost at their uncompressed length. What benefit for moving holes?

 

[DrDmoney]

I haven’t because I don’t see what benefit I can get. Shock is all the way deployed. Springs are almost loose. I can’t move them out of the keeper, but I can tell they are almost at their uncompressed length. What benefit for moving holes?

To tune the way the front bar works against the rear bar when your suspension is crossed up as well as from one side of the front to the other.

 

[JMT]

To tune the way the front bar works against the rear bar when your suspension is crossed up as well as from one side of the front to the other.

So, do you mean using different holes on the front driver side vs passenger side? Won't all the torque be on one side then and not equally distributed?

 

[DrDmoney]

No, you want the same position from side to side but your rear is not adjustable so adjusting the front can affect rear traction.

 

[jjvw]

So, do you mean using different holes on the front driver side vs passenger side? Won't all the torque be on one side then and not equally distributed?

It would be equally distributed through the torsion bar. There is nothing in the system that would divert the resistance more to one side or the other.

 

[jjvw]

No, you want the same position from side to side but your rear is not adjustable so adjusting the front can affect rear traction.

We can mismatch the hole positions on either side. That is how we can go a half step stiffer or looser. This has been an Antirock thing for many years.

 

[DrDmoney]

Although I get that you can mismatch by one hole and it won’t adversely affect the chassis dynamics, but you can’t put one in the short lever position and the other in the long lever position and expect equal performance.

 

[jjvw]

Although I get that you can mismatch by one hole and it won’t adversely affect the chassis dynamics, but you can’t put one in the short lever position and the other in the long lever position and expect equal performance.

That would be a weird thing to do. But why wouldn't the forces equalize through the torsion bar?

 

[JMT]

Ok, so there’s limits, but mismatching holes can give half step adjustments.

I’ll be interested to see if I can tell a difference onroad.

 

[DrDmoney]

That would be a weird thing to do. But why wouldn't the forces equalize through the torsion bar?

Because the lever (arm) on one side is longer working against the fulcrum (chassis), affects the suspension (load) at a different rate. In other words the long arm twists the bar easier, no?

 

[Mike_H]

Because the lever (arm) on one side is longer working against the fulcrum (chassis), affects the suspension (load) at a different rate. In other words the long arm twists the bar easier, no?

As one twists up the other twists down, so the lever arm forces balance. They have to, it’s a Newtonian law (the third).