05 Flame Red TJ Build

JMT said:
I’m not sure if my leak is from the pan or the RMS. The reason I’m not sure is I bashed my oil pan bad in 2017. Nothing came gushing out and everything seemed fine, so I just chocked it up as extra clearance. At some point, now long forgotten, I sprung a leak. I replaced the PCV valve and still had the leak. It’s a Jeep thing. For the longest I assumed it was the RMS. The leak wasn’t big. I put it off. Then I started using the conventional high mileage like JB says. That’s been a year and a half now. Still got a leak. Dawned on me it could be the pan. Saw Blaine’s post about the brake fluid. I’m going to try that. If my leak stops I’ll assume it’s the RMS. If not I’ll assume it’s the pan. If I do the pan I’ll take a look at the RMS. That’s my thinking…At this point I’m just tired of oil blowing all over under the Jeep.
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If you have a inspection cover on the bell housing remove it and look up at the crank. A rear main seal leak will have a spray pattern coming from the center out.
I also have a leak seems it got worse after I put high mileage oil in it. It could be a coincidence, it did seem to get noticeably worse after I did a week long trip to Colorado around 2200 miles total.
 
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kiwi said:
If u do switch it up, i’ll be interested in buying those mamba’s off you

As for jacks i’ve got the HF daytona low profile, no issues
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The Mamba’s are yours when I let them go. Right now they only have a few small spots. 😏
 
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Knocked some stuff out today.

1. Finished repainting the drivers side slider.
2. Bled the brakes. It’s nice to have Kaleb ready and willing to help.
3. Bought the 2.5 ton HF Daytona Floor Jack. I think I like it. 🤗
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Look at the oil pan gasket closely when you take the pan off. I thought I had an RMS leak back in 2017. Once I got the oil pan off, I was pretty certain it was coming from the rear of the oil pan gasket rather than the RMS. The pan gasket was a little compromised. I never touched the RMS, used a new Fel-Pro pan gasket and have had no leaks since.
 
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MountaineerTom said:
Look at the oil pan gasket closely when you take the pan off. I thought I had an RMS leak back in 2017. Once I got the oil pan off, I was pretty certain it was coming from the rear of the oil pan gasket rather than the RMS. The pan gasket was a little compromised. I never touched the RMS, used a new Fel-Pro pan gasket and have had no leaks since.
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I will definitely do that. I suspect that may be The issue. Thank you!
 
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Woodrow said:
Very nice. Now I feel bad for tossing my stock starter.
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I know. I was so glad someone mentioned it to me. It was 1/10th the price of new. This was all that was left of the brushes. 🤣 103,000 miles on this rig. For those doing this or putting in a new starter, check the wiring for frays and possible shorts. My wire was all messed up. I didn’t realize it before I did this. The PO had tons of electrical tape on it. I removed it all and put some extra vacuum tubing I had for the Rubicon locker on it. Worked great. It’s totally shielded from the engine and tranny.

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MountaineerTom said:
You can see your OPDA/cam gear pretty well too with the pan off, so it would be a good chance to make sure you don't have any abnormal wear.
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I’ve never looked at things like the OPDA from underneath. I did replace it in Feb of 2017 or 2018 as preventative maintenance because I have an ‘05 just within the known production dates for having bad OPDA’s. When I did I kept the stock sensor. Still it would be a good time to look. I also have the original OPDA, which looked good to me.
 
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JMT said:
I’ve never looked at things like the OPDA from underneath. I did replace it in Feb of 2017 or 2018 as preventative maintenance because I have an ‘05 just within the known production dates for having bad OPDA’s. When I did I kept the stock sensor. Still it would be a good time to look. I also have the original OPDA, which looked good to me.
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It's visible enough that I felt good about how mine looked.

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My 1/4” Stanley ratchet went caput, and the 3/8 and 1/2 don’t engage as well as I’d like. I noticed on a couple of Starter bolts with little access next to the exhaust. There’s some slop. I started to buy a Milwaukee, then I saw the Icon at HF. They both boasted similar specs. I got curious and started to research. I discovered that with tools it really depends on what tool you are using. There’s no one brand knocks everything out of the park. Milwaukee wins for power tools, but for other categories it varies. For ratchets I watched this video which took 17 different brand 3/8" ratchets and put them through various tests.


The guy does a good job keeping it short and concise while showing each test and each brand tested. While some beat others on various tests, GearWrench beat heavy hitters like Snap On, SKS, and others by a large margin in almost all categories (torque, engagement, strokes for 360* rotation, size for access, et al). So, I ordered a set. I’ll move the old guys to the trail bag. These will be my go to’s in the garage. I hope they live up to the tests.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GEARWRE...ypaa6wQHvv34RU8fVThoCadAQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
 
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JMT said:
My 1/4” Stanley ratchet went caput, and the 3/8 and 1/2 don’t engage as well as I’d like. I noticed on a couple of Starter bolts with little access next to the exhaust. There’s some slop. I started to buy a Milwaukee, then I saw the Icon at HF. They both boasted similar specs. I got curious and started to research. I discovered that with tools it really depends on what tool you are using. There’s no one brand knocks everything out of the park. Milwaukee wins for power tools, but for other categories it varies, and for ratchets Gear Wrench beat out Milwaukee, Snap On, Jenson, you name by a rather large margin in almost all of 7 categories (torque, engagement, strokes for 360* rotation, size for access, et al). So, I ordered a set. I’ll move the old guys to the trail bag. These will be my go to’s in the garage. I hope they live up to the tests.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GEARWRE...ypaa6wQHvv34RU8fVThoCadAQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
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I would like to try those gear wrench make nice stuff. I prefer fine tooth on 1/4” and 3/8” but coarse tooth on my 1/2” drive ratchets for strength.
 
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