OP
Yeah baby! Nice wheels! Welcome to my build thread Pintlers!
05 Flame Red TJ Build
- Thread starter JMT
- Start date
OP
Likewise, your ahead of me in several respects on your build. I don’t know if I’ll ever catch up. Having a complete set of control arms is a huge mod. And at 3.5” suspension lift, you’ve got me hands down on clearance. Plus with a Dana 44 already in the rig, you have such a solid foundation to do anything you want with that rig. It’s awesome!
And selectable are still better, you can still drive in 4wd open up front and LSD in rear. So your plan there is solid
OP
One thing you can do is follow up with @bobthetj03 with a PM. He’s very knowledgeable about our TJ’s. You should also put out a thread about the LJ you are getting, stating your goals and what ideas people have. With an LJ you can get away with more than you can on a TJ. For example, you have a longer rear drive shaft, so you can get up to 4” of suspension lift without getting vibes. I really think 35’s look best on an LJ. The larger body of the LJ just makes 33’s look ok, but 35’s just right, comparable to a TJ on 33’s. My .02c. The principles of the build are pretty much the same though! I look forward to seeing your LJ.STOP IT PLEASE STOP!!!!!! I LOVE that look, that's it, that IS the look. Great now I have to be patient and first buy a jeep and then get it to this point.
OK so we have established this is the look I want. This will be a daily driver for me and it will see off roading. Can you please tell me exactly what parts you put on to achieve this? Also I will most likely be doing this to an LJ. any chance you got a pic laying around of an LJ with this setup? To me what you have done is a very classic look on steroids and I dig that. That is one thing I like about the TJ. The LJ has so many things going for it but you lose a bit of that classic look. There are pros and cons each way. I eagerly await your diligent, detailed reply to my question
Thanks @bobthetj03 for being sensitive to the derailment of my build thread!
OP
@glwood.
With the recent addition of my 33x12.5 spare, it was time to do something about the tailgate hinges. I’ve always preferred the look and function of the Exogate/MoRyde over a rear bumper with a built in spare tire carrier. The MoRyde system is modular, so you can upgrade to just the hinges or you can install the full kit. In speaking with a company representative he noted that a 33 is about the line as far as where you may or may not get by with just the hinges. With 35’s he remarked you have to have the full kit. I decided to go with just the hinges for the time being. It saves a chunk of cash. Although you can’t find the reinforcement kit alone for sale through their dealers, he assured me that if I called back they would sell me one directly if need be. On to the good stuff...
I removed my stock hinges. Apparently Chrysler had these Jeeps painted with the stock hinges already bolted up! Not how I would have done it, but, ok. That’s a lot of years of dirt build up there.
Cleaned that up and took some pictures of the hinges side by side. There are two significant differences. First, the size and weight of the hinges. I didn’t weigh the two but it’s obvious that the MoRyde are much beefier. They are thicker gauge steel, they are longer, they are wider and they are thicker. Check the photos for yourself.
Second, the hinge location. Stock locates the hinge between the two bolts that mount to the tub and the MoRyde locates the hinge to the far right of the two bolts. You can see this in the picture above and another shot below. I think this falls in the favor of the MoRyde for strength.
You can see the greasable zerks in the photo below.
When you mount it up, leave all the bolts a little loose, then close the door so it latches correctly, then tighten the bolts down so your door will close correctly. Also, now the tailgate strap is too short to allow the tailgate to open all the way due to the re-location of the hinge farther away from the tailgate. So, you’ll have to come up with something there. I’m happy for now, but will add, I’m going to keep an eye on this. I think the main element that the kit has in addition to the hinges is the triangular reinforcement bracket that reinforces the top mounts attaching it to the roll bar bolt. I think I can get one of these fabbed up pretty easily by a friend. I’m going to do this no matter what, just for peace of mind. I don’t think I’ll need the rest of the kit, since my 1.25” body lift allows my 33” tire to clear the bumper. I can see needing it if you need to relocate the bracket to clear it. The finished product is an aesthetic improvement for sure...
With the recent addition of my 33x12.5 spare, it was time to do something about the tailgate hinges. I’ve always preferred the look and function of the Exogate/MoRyde over a rear bumper with a built in spare tire carrier. The MoRyde system is modular, so you can upgrade to just the hinges or you can install the full kit. In speaking with a company representative he noted that a 33 is about the line as far as where you may or may not get by with just the hinges. With 35’s he remarked you have to have the full kit. I decided to go with just the hinges for the time being. It saves a chunk of cash. Although you can’t find the reinforcement kit alone for sale through their dealers, he assured me that if I called back they would sell me one directly if need be. On to the good stuff...
I removed my stock hinges. Apparently Chrysler had these Jeeps painted with the stock hinges already bolted up! Not how I would have done it, but, ok. That’s a lot of years of dirt build up there.
Cleaned that up and took some pictures of the hinges side by side. There are two significant differences. First, the size and weight of the hinges. I didn’t weigh the two but it’s obvious that the MoRyde are much beefier. They are thicker gauge steel, they are longer, they are wider and they are thicker. Check the photos for yourself.
Second, the hinge location. Stock locates the hinge between the two bolts that mount to the tub and the MoRyde locates the hinge to the far right of the two bolts. You can see this in the picture above and another shot below. I think this falls in the favor of the MoRyde for strength.
You can see the greasable zerks in the photo below.
When you mount it up, leave all the bolts a little loose, then close the door so it latches correctly, then tighten the bolts down so your door will close correctly. Also, now the tailgate strap is too short to allow the tailgate to open all the way due to the re-location of the hinge farther away from the tailgate. So, you’ll have to come up with something there. I’m happy for now, but will add, I’m going to keep an eye on this. I think the main element that the kit has in addition to the hinges is the triangular reinforcement bracket that reinforces the top mounts attaching it to the roll bar bolt. I think I can get one of these fabbed up pretty easily by a friend. I’m going to do this no matter what, just for peace of mind. I don’t think I’ll need the rest of the kit, since my 1.25” body lift allows my 33” tire to clear the bumper. I can see needing it if you need to relocate the bracket to clear it. The finished product is an aesthetic improvement for sure...
Thanks very much for posting the pics and the comments. It seems pretty evident that the hinges would be a great starting point for me, and most likely all I would need...
One additional benefit I can see with those hinges is how much further you can open the tailgate, if necessary. When I remove or install my hardtop with my engine hoist, the tailgate with the spare is always in the way. These would allow it to swing out further, and be clear of the hardtop installation / removal, it seems.
One additional benefit I can see with those hinges is how much further you can open the tailgate, if necessary. When I remove or install my hardtop with my engine hoist, the tailgate with the spare is always in the way. These would allow it to swing out further, and be clear of the hardtop installation / removal, it seems.
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OP
I think you might be right with the further swing out of the tailgate. I think I’m going to make some paracord tailgate restraint that will allow it to extend to it’s fullest. I also think these hinges might enable the tailgate to miss the passenger brake light, which would be a nice benefit too
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OP
You bet! I’m using the stock carrier. In order to keep my third brake light I had to add 3/4” of washers where it ties in to the carrier so it would be above the tire. It’s close!
Same here. After seeing this, I think the hinges are all I need for my 32s. Thanks for sharing the detailed photos @JMT .
OP
Yeah, what the heck am I thinking? All I have to do is remove the old straps. I needed them before because the tailgate would hit the light, but now they will clear. :risas3:
OP
Opens to about 110* angle. Works great, misses the taillight entirely.
For some reason the closing of the tailgate is a little rough right now. I haven’t been able to take a look at why yet. Also, the two metal connectors that complete the circuit when you shut the tailgate keep falling out. I think they’re slightly rubbing on the tub when opening and closing. Another thing to diagnose
@JMT, I decided to go ahead and start on my front diff. I pulled it all apart and put the new pinion bearing on. I came in to see where to drill the hole on a dana 30 for the electrical. Seriously the Eaton docs suck really bad. Anyways I am heading out to the garage to see how far I can get tonight. I will post up a thread with pics. BTW my pinion nut came off with me holding the yoke and using a gun. I only have a tiny nail gun air compressor too. Don't be afraid of the pinion nut. Anyways I will probably post up my thread tomorrow. Watch out for it if you are interested. I am going to try and git er done tomorrow so It isn't stuck in the garage waiting for the cement to dry haha.
ok so I am almost done. I was working and before I knew it it was 4:30 AM. I am not wondering if I should just stay up or try and get some sleep.
Got some cool pics will post later.
Got the pinion in and crush sleeve crushed that is the worst part. Had to use a pipe wrench and a floor jack. I hope I don't ever have to take that apart again. Just need to shim the carrier now for carrier bearing preload. I am a little tired, going to watch some TV and try and wander off to sleep. Smell you tomorrow! or later today I guess haha
Got some cool pics will post later.
Got the pinion in and crush sleeve crushed that is the worst part. Had to use a pipe wrench and a floor jack. I hope I don't ever have to take that apart again. Just need to shim the carrier now for carrier bearing preload. I am a little tired, going to watch some TV and try and wander off to sleep. Smell you tomorrow! or later today I guess haha
@JMT , at final installation, were you able to rest the spare on the rear bumper?
If not, could the spare tire carrier be modified, in your case 33s, to allow the spare tire to rest on the rear bumper..??
If the spare could lightly rest on the rear bumper it would help take the strain off of the rear door hinges. Would that work?
If not, could the spare tire carrier be modified, in your case 33s, to allow the spare tire to rest on the rear bumper..??
If the spare could lightly rest on the rear bumper it would help take the strain off of the rear door hinges. Would that work?