4/1/2026
Got the 3D-printed head unit brackets finalized and started reassembling the dash. Updated head unit firmware.
Also added some new rivnuts to the tunnel sheet metal for the lower shift boot and transfer case shifter and then got those back in.
The throw of the B&M 45195 is 4-3/8" from 1st to 2nd. I didn't measure stock throw, but this is short, and tight. This is 3rd gear position... I'm still using the stock lever:
That leaves plenty of room for a custom switch panel to replace the stock one. Also shown in this photo is the wiring that goes to the old OE subwoofer that I'm going to find a good place to cut. I don't feel like chasing it all the way to the back of the head unit.
Got the 3D-printed head unit brackets finalized and started reassembling the dash. Updated head unit firmware.
Also added some new rivnuts to the tunnel sheet metal for the lower shift boot and transfer case shifter and then got those back in.
The throw of the B&M 45195 is 4-3/8" from 1st to 2nd. I didn't measure stock throw, but this is short, and tight. This is 3rd gear position... I'm still using the stock lever:
That leaves plenty of room for a custom switch panel to replace the stock one. Also shown in this photo is the wiring that goes to the old OE subwoofer that I'm going to find a good place to cut. I don't feel like chasing it all the way to the back of the head unit.
Able to share the Sony model you've installed and the 3d model?
I have a Sony XAV-AX3200 to install this spring and wouldn't mind using a quality 3D printed part vice modifying the brackets per forum instructions...
Mine is a XAV-AX6000. I didn’t know there was a forum post about modifying the brackets. I definitely would rather use my design anyway—the head unit will stay in the dash even without the screws through a mild interference fit. There’s no space to allow the head unit to move around.
The Metra brackets already had way too many holes punched into them before I started modifying them. They rely too much on the strength of the plastic holding those screws. I’ll send you a message.
4/2/2026
I've added a small relay board to the backside of the steering wheel kick panel for the phone charger and three spares. Two of them I plan to eventually use for heated seats. These relays will be triggered by the ignition wire, so I'll have +12V when the ignition is on. Finally got to try playing with heat-set inserts, too.
I've added a small relay board to the backside of the steering wheel kick panel for the phone charger and three spares. Two of them I plan to eventually use for heated seats. These relays will be triggered by the ignition wire, so I'll have +12V when the ignition is on. Finally got to try playing with heat-set inserts, too.
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OK, I didn't put the entire audio installation in a single post anywhere, so no better place than here. I spread out some info in the 3D printing and audio upgrade threads, but here's the final configuration, and some photos:
I need a new rear seat anyway, so I cut the two middle supports out of the seat bottom to accommodate the sub, and then added the grille to make sure it had enough space to move air and to protect it from damage from weight on the seat cushion. I think it sounds better than if I mounted it close to the seat bottom, but it is less convenient if I need to move it. It's held in place with hook-side velcro, and the pool noodle keeps it from shifting forward.
The sound is great. The rear seat rumbles... enough to probably get annoying after sitting on it for more than 20 minutes. I have a replacement knee bolster piece for under the steering wheel, so when that goes in I'll put my voltmeter on the amp to set the gain... it's plenty loud on conservative settings. I did a test drive on a cool windy day last week.
I'm pleased with the NVX amp. Tiny and powerful. I'm second-guessing not using components up front with dash-mounted tweeters... but that's an easy upgrade. I would have to have the right pods, and since I haven't found any it would mean designing some. This is my first vehicle with wireless CarPlay, and it's a nice addition.
- Sony XAV-AX6000 head unit with custom mounting brackets
- NVX VADM4v2 4-channel amp mounted on a custom bracket under the steering wheel
- Polk Audio MM522 front speakers in 3D-printed pods, lined and poly-filled
- Polk Audio MM652 rear speakers in OEM pods, lined and poly-filled
- Kicker 51HS10 Hideaway sub under rear seat
- Power wires run with 4-and 8-gauge
- Replaced speaker wires (spliced in new 4-pin plugs for rear pods/lighting)
I need a new rear seat anyway, so I cut the two middle supports out of the seat bottom to accommodate the sub, and then added the grille to make sure it had enough space to move air and to protect it from damage from weight on the seat cushion. I think it sounds better than if I mounted it close to the seat bottom, but it is less convenient if I need to move it. It's held in place with hook-side velcro, and the pool noodle keeps it from shifting forward.
The sound is great. The rear seat rumbles... enough to probably get annoying after sitting on it for more than 20 minutes. I have a replacement knee bolster piece for under the steering wheel, so when that goes in I'll put my voltmeter on the amp to set the gain... it's plenty loud on conservative settings. I did a test drive on a cool windy day last week.
I'm pleased with the NVX amp. Tiny and powerful. I'm second-guessing not using components up front with dash-mounted tweeters... but that's an easy upgrade. I would have to have the right pods, and since I haven't found any it would mean designing some. This is my first vehicle with wireless CarPlay, and it's a nice addition.
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4/10/2026
Added a positive bus bar to the battery tie-down. Everything's tight and well-insulated. I feel pretty confident about it. The tie-down strap used to use wingnuts, but I lost the clearance for those so I pulled some hex nuts out of the pile.
One thing I like about this tray ('97-'04 OEM-style Crown Automotive 55174728AB) is that I can reposition the tie-down. In the center, it rubs one of the PCM harnesses, so I've got it sitting a little inboard so it doesn't cause problems down the road.
Added a positive bus bar to the battery tie-down. Everything's tight and well-insulated. I feel pretty confident about it. The tie-down strap used to use wingnuts, but I lost the clearance for those so I pulled some hex nuts out of the pile.
One thing I like about this tray ('97-'04 OEM-style Crown Automotive 55174728AB) is that I can reposition the tie-down. In the center, it rubs one of the PCM harnesses, so I've got it sitting a little inboard so it doesn't cause problems down the road.
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6/1/2026
152,627 miles
The winch is installed, wired, and tested. I installed the "wireless" switch upside down, so I'll turn that around next time I have it apart. I wasn't sure about the cable routing. Everything's wrapped so the insulation won't vanish from rubbing on stuff... but I was mostly thinking about what happens to that unfused cable in a front-end accident. I don't think there's a way to completely eliminate the risk of that cable getting cut.
Also... I had to put larger lugs on the cables for my battery terminals. In doing so... I found the cables are not 2 AWG as advertised, but 4 AWG. At least they're pure copper. This goes back to the cable sizing argument we were all having in another thread, last year I think. 4 AWG is definitely not rated for the current this winch is supposed to pull... but winch manufacturers seem to get around it by saying stuff like, "only wind the spool under load for a few seconds at a time," or whatever.
Still working out an accommodation for the front plate. Where it'll end up, at least it will protect the synthetic line from road debris.
EDIT: Oh, I reprinted that fairlead plate last night with some minor tweaks and forgot to add infill under the thimble. Didn't affect it one bit. If I think of it, I'll reprint a stronger one one of these days, but it looks like this one will hold up just fine.
152,627 miles
The winch is installed, wired, and tested. I installed the "wireless" switch upside down, so I'll turn that around next time I have it apart. I wasn't sure about the cable routing. Everything's wrapped so the insulation won't vanish from rubbing on stuff... but I was mostly thinking about what happens to that unfused cable in a front-end accident. I don't think there's a way to completely eliminate the risk of that cable getting cut.
Also... I had to put larger lugs on the cables for my battery terminals. In doing so... I found the cables are not 2 AWG as advertised, but 4 AWG. At least they're pure copper. This goes back to the cable sizing argument we were all having in another thread, last year I think. 4 AWG is definitely not rated for the current this winch is supposed to pull... but winch manufacturers seem to get around it by saying stuff like, "only wind the spool under load for a few seconds at a time," or whatever.
Still working out an accommodation for the front plate. Where it'll end up, at least it will protect the synthetic line from road debris.
EDIT: Oh, I reprinted that fairlead plate last night with some minor tweaks and forgot to add infill under the thimble. Didn't affect it one bit. If I think of it, I'll reprint a stronger one one of these days, but it looks like this one will hold up just fine.
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Oops, someone switched your Warn winch for a Smitty ?
Also need to vote up there in Maine, danger ahead if not. D
I've had the exact model of winch on my truck for the last 10 years. I don't use it for self-recovery, mostly for pulling down trees and getting bad drivers out of their own messes... but it's done everything I've asked of it. This one was $150 used, so...
I always vote. Seems like there's danger ahead no matter what box I check, but I keep doing it.
Oh, I gave Shittybilt some money this morning and forgot about it. They're having a clearance sale, and their fold & tumble rear seat is cheap. My OE rear seat is trashed, and the black denim should match my front seat covers well enough.
6/14/2026
152,849 miles
It was a beautiful Saturday morning, so I loaded up the family and the dog and drove over to Mt. Washington. It was between 85° - 90° and balmy at the base, and 50° and blustery on the summit. The LJR did just fine, though it did overheat once on the way up. I was watching the gauge, and when it started creeping up I pulled over and set the brake for a bit with the heater on. Fortunately, there was no one behind us for a few minutes... the road gains 4,000 feet of elevation over 7.6 miles, grades between 12% and 18%. We made it about halfway before needing to stop. Once I stopped, the temp gauge shot up and the "check gauges" light popped up. After the heater was running for about 30 seconds, though, the gauge fell and stayed near 210° for the rest of the way up, way down, and all the way home. No heater needed after about halfway back down. Truthfully, with no top or windows, we wanted the heater on above 4,500 feet anyway.
Below is the most expensive (actually, maybe the only) bumper sticker I've every bought... admission to the auto road is stupidly expensive. I'm not sticking it on any vehicle... not sure where I'll put it yet. Shown instead is a magnet I found in the road. I like to think there was a student driver hooning around hard enough that the magnet flew off his car. No danger of that with the 4.0L.
I suspect if I re-geared to something better suited for the 35s, I wouldn't have overheated... but it's hard to know. The stock gearing is otherwise perfect with the 6-speed.
152,849 miles
It was a beautiful Saturday morning, so I loaded up the family and the dog and drove over to Mt. Washington. It was between 85° - 90° and balmy at the base, and 50° and blustery on the summit. The LJR did just fine, though it did overheat once on the way up. I was watching the gauge, and when it started creeping up I pulled over and set the brake for a bit with the heater on. Fortunately, there was no one behind us for a few minutes... the road gains 4,000 feet of elevation over 7.6 miles, grades between 12% and 18%. We made it about halfway before needing to stop. Once I stopped, the temp gauge shot up and the "check gauges" light popped up. After the heater was running for about 30 seconds, though, the gauge fell and stayed near 210° for the rest of the way up, way down, and all the way home. No heater needed after about halfway back down. Truthfully, with no top or windows, we wanted the heater on above 4,500 feet anyway.
Below is the most expensive (actually, maybe the only) bumper sticker I've every bought... admission to the auto road is stupidly expensive. I'm not sticking it on any vehicle... not sure where I'll put it yet. Shown instead is a magnet I found in the road. I like to think there was a student driver hooning around hard enough that the magnet flew off his car. No danger of that with the 4.0L.
I suspect if I re-geared to something better suited for the 35s, I wouldn't have overheated... but it's hard to know. The stock gearing is otherwise perfect with the 6-speed.
I've made that run on a bike - my sticker is much smaller.
It's beautiful. Love NH.Re-Gearing with your 6 speed would make no difference with the overheating problem - assuming you picked the appropriate gear and were not lugging the engine up the grade.
There is something else going on. A properly functioning cooling system should make that climb with no issues.
Yeah, no lugging going on. 1st is still way too low for daily driving use. I stayed mostly in 2nd with stretches in 3rd. The oil could be a bit low--due for a change today, and I haven't checked the dipstick in a bit--but I'd be surprised if it's a quart low. I snagged everything last fall to do a whole cooling system flush... block drain adapter, system detergent, coolant, etc... but I'm not in a hurry since the coolant looks good.
I turned off the radio on the way up to listen to things. I was getting what my kid called an "oinking" sound from the center/passenger side of the engine bay. I have no reason to think there's air in there, but that's what it sounded like... sort of like pump cavitation. But not violent, barely loud enough to hear.
I turned off the radio on the way up to listen to things. I was getting what my kid called an "oinking" sound from the center/passenger side of the engine bay. I have no reason to think there's air in there, but that's what it sounded like... sort of like pump cavitation. But not violent, barely loud enough to hear.
Sounds like it's time for the flush. Even if the coolant looks good, there could certainly be gunk in there cloggin' things up. It would also be worth checking your fan clutch.
Funny - this has been sitting in this exact spot for several years...
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Yeah, I'll have a look at the fan and try to find time for the flush. My summer is chock full between work, a couple of family trips, and home projects. I have to finish the stairs for the deck I built last year... around 26-30 linear width of stairway going around a corner. Need to pour slabs, build boxes, blah blah blah...
You've got BDR stickers!! I was supposed to do the NEBDR last year with a small group of guys, but I picked up a bad bug and got knocked down for a couple of days. Sunday was a nice day too, did a few hundred road miles on the GS to get lunch with my brother.
You've got BDR stickers!! I was supposed to do the NEBDR last year with a small group of guys, but I picked up a bad bug and got knocked down for a couple of days. Sunday was a nice day too, did a few hundred road miles on the GS to get lunch with my brother.
Brannon D
New Member
I had the same issue with my TJ, and it ended up just needing a flush. The prestone flush works wonders. Used a few gallon jugs of distilled water since I don't have running water at my garage, and got all of the gunk out. I had previously done the thermostat and coolant change less then a year prior but there was still some K-stop/stop leak in there clogging. (FIX LEAKS THE RIGHT WAY FOLKS). I finished it off with a new felpro thermostat housing gasket/rtv and it hasn't leaked or overheated since. Also hasn't moved more then a hair above temp even in 90+ degree driving on the Capital beltway every day in stop/go traffic.
That's the stuff I got. So... you also had that chugging sound going on? I've had zero temperature issues aside from that one climb. The needle sits a little north of center all the time. The only time I run the AC is to exercise it.
I do not envy you dealing with that traffic daily. I'll have a week of it later this month, and that'll do me for the rest of the year.
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