Disclaimer: A lot of this is me trying to condense all my research and questions into one place so that hopefully it can be easier to wade through this project.
The Story:
After daily driving on stock 3.07 gears out of a 30/35 combo on 33's for years and having issues with hills and steep trails, I finally figured out I needed to regear (I can be slow on the uptake sometimes I know). I did a good amount of research and planned to get 4.88 gears towards the end of the summer. Randomly I decided to look for gear kits on Facebook Marketplace just to see if there was some deal I couldn't pass up. Well I found one, just not in the way I thought. Only a few hours away was a set of built TJ Rubicon Dana 44s for a very reasonable price. It came with 5.13 gears, stock lockers, locking hubs, chromoly shafts, and more that I could give or take. It even had the stock pumps! This sent me into a spiral of research to know what I was even getting into since this would easily be the biggest single project I've done on The Jeep. Before this I barely even knew that regearing existed, now I'm playing around with gear calculators and learning everything I can about my drivetrain. After multiple searches on this forum turned up as "it bolts right in", I spent half a day and $4350 to bring them home.
Why Switch?:
As I said above, I have been running the worst axle combo for a very long time, and it was pretty clear that something had to change to keep up with my vision for my Jeep. I could've done the super 30/35 combo, but in parts alone that would cost about as much as the axles I bought. Throw in labor to install the gears and locker at a minimum and its way more than it was worth with this option available. Sure if I went without a locker and chromoly shafts it's much cheaper, but where's the fun in that? Plus now I will finally have a Dana 44 in the rear!
Addressing Concerns Out of the Gate:
Admittedly, I didn't thoroughly research every single part before I bought the axles, so I learned that some of the things included have a less than stellar reputation on here.
Truss: I'll be keeping it pretty much just because I do not have the means to take it off. I fully acknowledge that it does not solve the issues with the front 44 and is largely unnecessary.
Wheel Adapters: I'll be taking these off since they don't fit my wheels, but potentially keeping them for future plans.
Tube Seals: If I take out the axle shafts for some reason, I'll remove these, but for now they'll stay on.
Powerstop Brakes: I know these are just repainted stock calipers, so I don't plan to keep them when the plans for 35's get more serious.
Hopefully this will get some of the initial questions and comments out of the way as I'm sure some of the more experienced people who look this over will bring these parts up if I didn't mention them here.
Extra Parts:
I have already purchased the following:
2X Spicer 5-134x U-Joints (1310-1330 conversion U-Joints, only available in greaseable versions sadly) so I can run my current driveshafts
2X parking brake cables (Raybestos BC96157 and BC96158)
Individual switches for the lockers (generic covered on/off switches)
A 43 tooth speedometer gear since I'll be running a 5.13/33's combo
If there are any other parts that you think I might need, let me know. From everything I've researched this should be all that is needed. I am scavenging the rear soft brake line and breather block from the Dana 35 so I shouldn't have to worry about cutting and flaring brake lines like some others who went from drums to disc.
Removal and Install:
I've watched videos from @hosejockey61 and a couple others on this swap which have been very helpful, but just in case I wanted to double check. For removal, I just take off the following parts on the axle side, in mostly no particular order:
Driveshafts:
Most of the threads I have read about this swap mention two things every time, U-Joints and driveshaft length. For U-joint I have that covered with the conversion U-Joints. It's not perfect, but it is the cheapest option. As for axle length, I haven't seen anything that is definitive one way or the other on if you have to shorten it, just a lot of people mentioning it. I called Adams Driveshaft about the question and he basically could not tell me anything definitive either, but did give me useful advice. For the front, he said that if the driveshaft will not go in when the axle is a full droop, it is too long. Same applies to the rear, but there is more to watch there. Since I have one of his CV driveshafts, I asked him about how much spline should show at a minimum, to which he tentatively said he would get it shortened if it showed less than ~1" of spline at ride height. Currently I have ~2" of visible spline showing and plan to watch the driveshaft when I cycle the axles up and down to see how much they travel. Is there anything else I should be looking for driveshaft wise? Are there other opinions on how much spline should show at ride height? Any reason the driveshafts would compress further inward (get shorter) than at full droop? Current plan is that if there are any issues to just get them shortened instead of ordering entirely new driveshafts. Because of this, when testing the shafts for fitment I will be using the stock 1310 U-Joints since I read that driveshaft shops remove all the U-Joints when shortening and balancing them.
Differential:
Even though I bought these axles a couple of months ago, I haven't been able to pull the covers just yet, but plan to very soon. This will be the first diff fluid change I'll be doing and while it seems pretty simple, I still have a few questions.
1) I've read the multiple gear oil threads, so I don't plan to start a whole new one, just looking for an answer. I plan to use 85W-140 Lucas conventional gear oil currently in both diffs. Are there any issues with using a cheaper brand as long as it meets GL-5? As for synthetic, is it really that bad to use or is that mostly a Jerry-ism? I mainly ask this for any future reference since a quick search at in store stock was mostly synthetics. I know that many places recommend conventional when breaking in new aftermarket gears, but since these are already broken in does it matter as much?
2) What should I use to clean the inside of the diffs? Any particular spray or just wipe them down as best I can and call it good? Any extra precautions around the mounting surfaces since I will be (hopefully) reusing the Lube Locker gasket that is already on there?
3) When refilling, I've seen a bit of deliberation on the correct quantities. FSM calls for 2 quarts (1.89 L) in both front and rear but does not specify Rubicon 44's (not sure how much that matters). On the Wrangler TJ Fluid Capacities & Fluid Recommendations thread it states specifically the front Rubicon 44 needs 1.375 quarts. Someone later calls out the discrepancy between the two sources, but no definitive answer comes from it. Most diff oil changes I've seen are just "fill till it comes out the hole" as a rule of thumb but since these are aftermarket covers and I don't have a factory cover to compare the fill hole too. MetalCloak makes no mention of it being a "high fill" cover so I'm inclined to believe it's the same height. I am probably way overthinking this, but I just want to avoid having oil come out the breather tube or worse. When I do this, it'll be before the axles are put into the Jeep so it will be on level ground with the pinion straight forward.
4) Speaking of the MetalCloak cover, anybody who runs these/has run them have anything to say? I am mainly worried about clearance and plan to watch them as I cycle the axles to test it myself (every Jeep is different and whatnot), but other than one review on their website, nobody including the PO seems to have issues with them.
Rubicon Lockers & Lockers in General:
I was surprised to hear how weak these lockers were, but since I do not have the time or money to put in a better set of lockers, its what I'll live with. I've already read the advice of "lock them when you touch dirt" so I'll be doing that to prolong the limited slip. As for lockers in general, any tips for using them? Precautions? I'm especially curious if there's a way to tell if I should be locking the front or not on an obstacle. I also won't have any way to see if the lockers are locked. I assume I can listen for the pump shutting off and it will feel different the moment I start moving? I've wheeled for so long with completely open diffs that I'm not sure what I'll be capable of now. I will be "relocating" the pumps to the ABS tray since that's empty and found a pretty good video on how to do it, so it doesn't seem hard to do.
Locking Hubs:
Are there any good threads on maintenance/repairs on any of these kits for future reference? Since I didn't install them and have no experience with them, if something does happen I'd like to be prepared and read up on them beforehand. If specifics are needed it is the Yukon YA WU-07 kit.
That should be all the questions I have right now, but I'll update the post if anything else comes up. I'm sure many of y'all are probably just thinking "you're overthinking it, just throw them in," and trust me if could they would be in already. Since I can't start working on this for another week or so, I might as well ask questions. Better to find out I've got something wrong while sitting in the AC rather than under the car. Thanks for reading this massive post and hopefully this will help me or anyone in the future make this swap. Looking forward to the advice I get.
The Story:
After daily driving on stock 3.07 gears out of a 30/35 combo on 33's for years and having issues with hills and steep trails, I finally figured out I needed to regear (I can be slow on the uptake sometimes I know). I did a good amount of research and planned to get 4.88 gears towards the end of the summer. Randomly I decided to look for gear kits on Facebook Marketplace just to see if there was some deal I couldn't pass up. Well I found one, just not in the way I thought. Only a few hours away was a set of built TJ Rubicon Dana 44s for a very reasonable price. It came with 5.13 gears, stock lockers, locking hubs, chromoly shafts, and more that I could give or take. It even had the stock pumps! This sent me into a spiral of research to know what I was even getting into since this would easily be the biggest single project I've done on The Jeep. Before this I barely even knew that regearing existed, now I'm playing around with gear calculators and learning everything I can about my drivetrain. After multiple searches on this forum turned up as "it bolts right in", I spent half a day and $4350 to bring them home.
Why Switch?:
As I said above, I have been running the worst axle combo for a very long time, and it was pretty clear that something had to change to keep up with my vision for my Jeep. I could've done the super 30/35 combo, but in parts alone that would cost about as much as the axles I bought. Throw in labor to install the gears and locker at a minimum and its way more than it was worth with this option available. Sure if I went without a locker and chromoly shafts it's much cheaper, but where's the fun in that? Plus now I will finally have a Dana 44 in the rear!
Addressing Concerns Out of the Gate:
Admittedly, I didn't thoroughly research every single part before I bought the axles, so I learned that some of the things included have a less than stellar reputation on here.
Truss: I'll be keeping it pretty much just because I do not have the means to take it off. I fully acknowledge that it does not solve the issues with the front 44 and is largely unnecessary.
Wheel Adapters: I'll be taking these off since they don't fit my wheels, but potentially keeping them for future plans.
Tube Seals: If I take out the axle shafts for some reason, I'll remove these, but for now they'll stay on.
Powerstop Brakes: I know these are just repainted stock calipers, so I don't plan to keep them when the plans for 35's get more serious.
Hopefully this will get some of the initial questions and comments out of the way as I'm sure some of the more experienced people who look this over will bring these parts up if I didn't mention them here.
Extra Parts:
I have already purchased the following:
2X Spicer 5-134x U-Joints (1310-1330 conversion U-Joints, only available in greaseable versions sadly) so I can run my current driveshafts
2X parking brake cables (Raybestos BC96157 and BC96158)
Individual switches for the lockers (generic covered on/off switches)
A 43 tooth speedometer gear since I'll be running a 5.13/33's combo
If there are any other parts that you think I might need, let me know. From everything I've researched this should be all that is needed. I am scavenging the rear soft brake line and breather block from the Dana 35 so I shouldn't have to worry about cutting and flaring brake lines like some others who went from drums to disc.
Removal and Install:
I've watched videos from @hosejockey61 and a couple others on this swap which have been very helpful, but just in case I wanted to double check. For removal, I just take off the following parts on the axle side, in mostly no particular order:
- Driveshaft
- Springs
- Shocks
- Brake lines (and parking brake in the rear)
- Steering in the front
- Track bars
- Sway bar links in the front, full sway bar in the rear
- Breather hose
- Lastly, control arms
Driveshafts:
Most of the threads I have read about this swap mention two things every time, U-Joints and driveshaft length. For U-joint I have that covered with the conversion U-Joints. It's not perfect, but it is the cheapest option. As for axle length, I haven't seen anything that is definitive one way or the other on if you have to shorten it, just a lot of people mentioning it. I called Adams Driveshaft about the question and he basically could not tell me anything definitive either, but did give me useful advice. For the front, he said that if the driveshaft will not go in when the axle is a full droop, it is too long. Same applies to the rear, but there is more to watch there. Since I have one of his CV driveshafts, I asked him about how much spline should show at a minimum, to which he tentatively said he would get it shortened if it showed less than ~1" of spline at ride height. Currently I have ~2" of visible spline showing and plan to watch the driveshaft when I cycle the axles up and down to see how much they travel. Is there anything else I should be looking for driveshaft wise? Are there other opinions on how much spline should show at ride height? Any reason the driveshafts would compress further inward (get shorter) than at full droop? Current plan is that if there are any issues to just get them shortened instead of ordering entirely new driveshafts. Because of this, when testing the shafts for fitment I will be using the stock 1310 U-Joints since I read that driveshaft shops remove all the U-Joints when shortening and balancing them.
Differential:
Even though I bought these axles a couple of months ago, I haven't been able to pull the covers just yet, but plan to very soon. This will be the first diff fluid change I'll be doing and while it seems pretty simple, I still have a few questions.
1) I've read the multiple gear oil threads, so I don't plan to start a whole new one, just looking for an answer. I plan to use 85W-140 Lucas conventional gear oil currently in both diffs. Are there any issues with using a cheaper brand as long as it meets GL-5? As for synthetic, is it really that bad to use or is that mostly a Jerry-ism? I mainly ask this for any future reference since a quick search at in store stock was mostly synthetics. I know that many places recommend conventional when breaking in new aftermarket gears, but since these are already broken in does it matter as much?
2) What should I use to clean the inside of the diffs? Any particular spray or just wipe them down as best I can and call it good? Any extra precautions around the mounting surfaces since I will be (hopefully) reusing the Lube Locker gasket that is already on there?
3) When refilling, I've seen a bit of deliberation on the correct quantities. FSM calls for 2 quarts (1.89 L) in both front and rear but does not specify Rubicon 44's (not sure how much that matters). On the Wrangler TJ Fluid Capacities & Fluid Recommendations thread it states specifically the front Rubicon 44 needs 1.375 quarts. Someone later calls out the discrepancy between the two sources, but no definitive answer comes from it. Most diff oil changes I've seen are just "fill till it comes out the hole" as a rule of thumb but since these are aftermarket covers and I don't have a factory cover to compare the fill hole too. MetalCloak makes no mention of it being a "high fill" cover so I'm inclined to believe it's the same height. I am probably way overthinking this, but I just want to avoid having oil come out the breather tube or worse. When I do this, it'll be before the axles are put into the Jeep so it will be on level ground with the pinion straight forward.
4) Speaking of the MetalCloak cover, anybody who runs these/has run them have anything to say? I am mainly worried about clearance and plan to watch them as I cycle the axles to test it myself (every Jeep is different and whatnot), but other than one review on their website, nobody including the PO seems to have issues with them.
Rubicon Lockers & Lockers in General:
I was surprised to hear how weak these lockers were, but since I do not have the time or money to put in a better set of lockers, its what I'll live with. I've already read the advice of "lock them when you touch dirt" so I'll be doing that to prolong the limited slip. As for lockers in general, any tips for using them? Precautions? I'm especially curious if there's a way to tell if I should be locking the front or not on an obstacle. I also won't have any way to see if the lockers are locked. I assume I can listen for the pump shutting off and it will feel different the moment I start moving? I've wheeled for so long with completely open diffs that I'm not sure what I'll be capable of now. I will be "relocating" the pumps to the ABS tray since that's empty and found a pretty good video on how to do it, so it doesn't seem hard to do.
Locking Hubs:
Are there any good threads on maintenance/repairs on any of these kits for future reference? Since I didn't install them and have no experience with them, if something does happen I'd like to be prepared and read up on them beforehand. If specifics are needed it is the Yukon YA WU-07 kit.
That should be all the questions I have right now, but I'll update the post if anything else comes up. I'm sure many of y'all are probably just thinking "you're overthinking it, just throw them in," and trust me if could they would be in already. Since I can't start working on this for another week or so, I might as well ask questions. Better to find out I've got something wrong while sitting in the AC rather than under the car. Thanks for reading this massive post and hopefully this will help me or anyone in the future make this swap. Looking forward to the advice I get.
