Cost and quality of control arms

I have some currie's sitting on the shop floor. Being in a fairly wet and muddy area, I am wondering if some type of marine type grease might be slightly beneficial. Wouldn't be shocked if someone is already doing it. Even though I have bought the 4 inch arms, I think I'll only go from the 2 inch suspension lift currently to 3. If you are going to wheel it, do yourself a favour and buy something wore while imo. Cheers.
 
Chris said:
Some dude who happens to have designed a large number of TJ specific parts. Before you dismiss Blaine, understand that you may not fully understand who Blaine is or all he’s designed and engineered. If there’s one person you’d be wise to listen to it would be him. I say that with all due respect. I just don’t want you to make the mistake so many others in your shoes have made.
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True story.

Blaines advice has helped me in the past. He has no problem telling you how it is and if you ask him, he will tell you why (Usually in no uncertain terms).
 
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rasband said:
Same, it happened once after a trail. I had just greased them a week or two before, so I'd have to be a moron to think it was anyone but me.

Fortunately that's a lesson you just have to learn once (hopefully).
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One thing that helps is to put the snap rings on with the correct side facing out. They are stamped out with dies and there is a smooth edge which is the top of the metal when the die makes contact and the other side has a sharper edge. The sharp edge goes out so it bites into the side of the groove and stays put better.
 
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mrblaine said:
The sharp edge goes out so it bites into the side of the groove and stays put better.
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This is the piece I didn't know until the time it happened. I thought I took it apart and put it back together in the same orientation, but clearly didn't.

Another tip for anyone that reads this later is that the collar on the ball often has a line on one side, that line goes toward the snap ring side to accommodate for the snap ring width keeping the ball centered in the joint.
 
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imactj2004 said:
But why????? Aside from the fact that some dude on a forum said so?
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Because you’re trying to solve a problem that doesn’t exist for you. If you lift your Jeep more, your lift will come with arms. For the height your Jeep is at, the stock arms, which are tried and true, are perfect. The best choice. Cheap and easy to find.
 
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deadbeat son said:
The OEM arms are designed to allow for flex to compensate for the misalignment. The cheap aftermarket arms don't; the only advantage they have over the stock arms is the length and angle are designed to compensate for caster and wheelbase changes due to taller springs. The advantage isn't worth the tradeoff in a small lift situation.

Stay stock, or go with a quality Johnny Joint that allows for misalignment and also allows for caster and wheelbase adjustment. As for which JJ arm? Just pick your preference or whichever one best fits your needs (min/max length, etc.); they're all priced similarly.
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I wanna dive into this a bit.

"the only advantage they have over the stock arms is the length and angle are designed to compensate for caster and wheelbase changes due to taller springs. The advantage isn't worth the tradeoff in a small lift situation. "​


This is the part that still doesn't make sense. I totally understand what everyone is saying about risks in a high articulation situation. But a daily driver/basic off-road situation isn't going to be subject to those extremes and every other forum or YT video that I've ever read about any lift beyond a basic rake adjustment is that adjustibles are required to properly compensate for caster. Yes?


StockAfterMarket (non-JJ)JJ
Good Flex for General Use√x√
Allows for Caster Adjustmentx√√
Max Flex for High Articulationxx√
 
imactj2004 said:
Because I was led to be believe (but am now starting to question) that adjustibles are always recommended for any lift, to compensate for caster.
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So the reason for people saying if you're under 2" of lift just stick with stock is because the caster change isn't extreme enough to actually cause any problems whatsoever. It's only when you get to 3+ that problems start to arise.
 
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imactj2004 said:
Because I was led to be believe (but am now starting to question) that adjustibles are always recommended for any lift, to compensate for caster.
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Only over 2" (mostly) then you also need adjustable to set pinion angles.
 
Calvin.8 said:
My suspension is lifted 2-2.5" inches and I'm still on stock control arms. I take it wheeling and it's my daily driver and I have absolutely zero problems at all. The only reason for me to buy any other control arms is if I lift it more or do a tummy tuck.
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Hmmmmmm....
 
Calvin.8 said:
Based off everything said what are you still confused about?
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Not confused. But definitely questioning my original understanding and wondering why other forums and discussions do make that suggestion (to go to adjustible for any lift).
 
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