Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build

Well, it sounds like there’s nothing practical about any solution to stretching 😂
Yes and no. When you get to where you fully understand the impact of the two pics below, why they matter and what the two aluminum straight edges represent, then we'll discuss practicality.

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This is a strong hint.

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Final hint-

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Yes and no. When you get to where you fully understand the impact of the two pics below, why they matter and what the two aluminum straight edges represent, then we'll discuss practicality.

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This is a strong hint.

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Final hint-

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Is that for your half recessed tank like you did in Kat's rig? I'm guessing some sort of support since crossmember is gone. Is aluminum bar for mounting?
 
I'll take a stab too. Because your trying to tuck a stock tank up higher, you will have to cut the floor. The rear cross-member torque box and cargo floor bracing will have to be removed, so your fabricating a "box" for the tank to sit in, which will transfer forces around around the missing components, adding the strength and rigidity (rigidness?) back to the tub. Will the tank skid plate still be frame mounted?
 
Is that for your half recessed tank like you did in Kat's rig? I'm guessing some sort of support since crossmember is gone. Is aluminum bar for mounting?

I remember that photo! The rear floor was raised and the gas tank tucked up - that's the one you are referring to here, right? Sadly can't find a higher resolution one.

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You might get 3" out of the front with massive amounts of tweaking and squeaking shit by other shit, doubtful unless you want to move the steering gear which I will never do.

What I do know is that with an axle that you can run 37's on around here, 104" of wheelbase in a TJ, there is no off the shelf tank that I've seen that will work under the back of the rig. I believe you could build a custom version that sneaks a pair of sumps forward on each side over the axle tubes with a center cut out for the diff if you get very creative though. Given that we notch the tub crossmember that the rear seatbelt bolts to for the joint bodies at full stuff, that only leaves you the height from the top of the axle tube to the top of the joints for sump height. In the below pic of 37's at 104, note that the back of the tire is past the rear of the tub by a couple of inches. That leaves you a very small footprint for a center mounted fuel pump option.

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It never ceases to amaze me how far back the frame cutout for the coilovers are in this photo. Quite literally as far out as it can go. Great attention to detail Blaine.
 
Is that for your half recessed tank like you did in Kat's rig? I'm guessing some sort of support since crossmember is gone. Is aluminum bar for mounting?
I'll take a stab too. Because your trying to tuck a stock tank up higher, you will have to cut the floor. The rear cross-member torque box and cargo floor bracing will have to be removed, so your fabricating a "box" for the tank to sit in, which will transfer forces around around the missing components, adding the strength and rigidity (rigidness?) back to the tub. Will the tank skid plate still be frame mounted?
Find what is missing in the last pic. I’m guessing the coilover towers are pushed so far back that they run into the torque box and rear body mounts. So he built one where the mounts are moved inwards. The pieces of flat bar tie vertically to the tub and horizontally to the corner. That’s my guess
 
Find what is missing in the last pic. I’m guessing the coilover towers are pushed so far back that they run into the torque box and rear body mounts. So he built one where the mounts are moved inwards. The pieces of flat bar tie vertically to the tub and horizontally to the corner. That’s my guess

When the frame arch is pushed back, the rear body mounts are chopped off. They need to go back somewhere. And it might not be where they were before. Especially when the rearmost flat section of frame where the rear crossmember was is gone. And while we are in there and moving body mounts, take the opportunity to make a torque box with a significant amount of strength at the rear of the tub where the corners and sill all attach. (Maybe create a sound base for your GR cage extensions to actually do something meaningful).

And to everyone else, his pics have nothing to do with tucking the gas tank up into the tub floor.
 
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The factory torque box hits the frame since it’s no longer flat back there. Seen some shitty clearance jobs on the torque box to make it work but Blaine’s new torque box is much smarter. And cleaner.
 
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The factory torque box hits the frame since it’s no longer flat back there. Seen some shitty clearance jobs on the torque box to make it work but Blaine’s new torque box is much smarter. And cleaner.
Yes, depending on how far the arch is pushed backwards. Still a better answer than mine.
 
Looking forward to seeing this play out. However with lengthening the center of the frame and moving body mounts why not a new rear back half frame?
 
if you're goin far enough, you gotta loose those torque box ends for wheel space. cap the ends tie them back to the tub then move the body mounts in. and stiffen the weak hanging corners.

the torque box is not super stout so it needs a bolster (a shim) between the body mount and the body to disperse load. i also put nut plates in there to catch those body mount bolts and disperse that pinch/clamp load.
 
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what you come up with in this instance may be more helpful since it does still incorporate original frame bits, that are gonna face common work around requirements for most interested.
i had the luxury of just building where i need things to be. and past the torque box chop (that Blaine was good enough to share) is not gonna be common with anybody.
 
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Looking forward to seeing this play out. However with lengthening the center of the frame and moving body mounts why not a new rear back half frame?
Back halfs are rarely arched over the axle. They rarely tie into the old frame cleanly. The rear crossmember/body mounts/torque box hacking is rarely clean. I've been waiting for non overcast day to get some pics, maybe tomorrow. They will show exactly why I do it this way.
 
if you're goin far enough, you gotta loose those torque box ends for wheel space. cap the ends tie them back to the tub then move the body mounts in. and stiffen the weak hanging corners.

the torque box is not super stout so it needs a bolster (a shim) between the body mount and the body to disperse load. i also put nut plates in there to catch those body mount bolts and disperse that pinch/clamp load.
Folks don't understand the function and construction of the torque box. Few know that the only attachment the tub rear panels where the tail lights are is ONLY at the outer face of the torque box and the only part of the tub that stops the tailgate opening from moving back and forth once the tail gate is open or removed. Not only that but the outer face of the torque box is a single layer of 18 gauge sheet metal with offsets to go under the tail gate. If you look at the lower section under the tail gate, you can see the offset outward indicated by the arrows below. The visible spot welds are circled.

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