Dorman speed bleeders

I modified my Motive Products Power Bleeder by teeing in an 1/8" tank valve:

2020-02-11_203138.webp


Pros:
Input air introduced above the brake fluid, no aeration.
No more pumping!!

Cons:
Requires compressed air source.
Another port for potential contamination - don't want to be pumping wet, oily, dirty air into the tank.
 
I've used speed bleeders on motorcycles and the TJ with no issues. It is simply a one way valve that lets the pressurized brake fluid out of the bleeder valve, but does let anything back in after the pressure is released.

There are only 2 issues to watch for: running the reservoir out while pumping the pedal, and loosening the valve too much where it may draw air back through the threads (1/4 turn is normally sufficient to get decent outflow).
 
I've used speed bleeders on motorcycles and the TJ with no issues. It is simply a one way valve that lets the pressurized brake fluid out of the bleeder valve, but does let anything back in after the pressure is released.

There are only 2 issues to watch for: running the reservoir out while pumping the pedal, and loosening the valve too much where it may draw air back through the threads (1/4 turn is normally sufficient to get decent outflow).

I added speed bleeders when I replaced the brake lines. I plan to add them to my Expedition soon too, as soon as I can verify the sizes. They worked great.
 
For my '06 TJ Rubicon, I am also looking for the speed bleeder valves. I see that Dorman makes one for the front brakes (ref Dorman p/n 12701). I don't see anything for the rear disc brake bleeder valves. Does anyone have a source for valves for the rear disc brakes. According to my Parts Manual, the front bleeders are OEM p/n J3203313 and the rear bleeders are 05179732AA (post 10/2005) or J0920463 (pre 10/2005).
 
instead of buying an expensive bleeder, buy a paint pot from harbor freight and convert it over to brake fluid with new hoses.
 
For my '06 TJ Rubicon, I am also looking for the speed bleeder valves. I see that Dorman makes one for the front brakes (ref Dorman p/n 12701). I don't see anything for the rear disc brake bleeder valves. Does anyone have a source for valves for the rear disc brakes. According to my Parts Manual, the front bleeders are OEM p/n J3203313 and the rear bleeders are 05179732AA (post 10/2005) or J0920463 (pre 10/2005).

I don't know about the Dorman P/N, but speedbleeders list the part number as SB3824 which is the same as the fronts...
 
Old thread, I know. Has anyone been using the Dorman speed bleeders for a good length of time? I’m considering putting them on but am concerned about them being a failure point, especially just the Dormans.
 
Why not go with USA made Russell Speed Bleeders? I've had them on my Superduty for about 6 years now. They have a good reputation as well.
 
Why not go with USA made Russell Speed Bleeders? I've had them on my Superduty for about 6 years now. They have a good reputation as well.

Wasn’t sure if I’d be able to get them in Canada but looks like I could, $30 per 2pk.
Dormans are $10 cheaper for the 2pk and I can get them locally.
However I just came across this that might suit me well…
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00F9XHVKA?tag=tjforum-20
Same idea as the speed bleeders with the check valve but on a bottle, has good reviews too.
 
One thing I haven't seen mentioned is gravity bleeding. It's a good way to exchange your fluid for fresh and eliminate air. Takes a bit of time and babysitting so the master doesn't run dry. The TJ is so short though it doesn't take all that long. Use clear hoses and Gatorade bottles with holes drilled into the cap to hold the tubing, watch for the clean fluid to appear and close each bleeder when you see it come through clean. One man job.
 
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One thing I haven't seen mentioned is gravity bleeding. It's a good way to exchange your fluid for fresh and eliminate air. Takes a bit of time and babysitting so the master doesn't run dry. The TJ is so short though it doesn't take all that long. Use clear hoses and Gatorade bottles with holes drilled into the cap to hold the tubing, watch for the clean fluid to appear and close each bleeder when you see it come through clean. One man job.

I've never tried this approach so educate me please. Do you just crack open the bleeders, with a tube running into a container filled with fluid, and wait? Do you do one caliper at a time or all four at the same time? No pumping of the brake pedal involved? Obviously keep the master topped up so as not to run it dry. Anything else to know? Thanks.
 
I've never tried this approach so educate me please. Do you just crack open the bleeders, with a tube running into a container filled with fluid, and wait? Do you do one caliper at a time or all four at the same time? No pumping of the brake pedal involved? Obviously keep the master topped up so as not to run it dry. Anything else to know? Thanks.

I do one wheel at a time starting with the furthest from the master just like normal. You don't touch the pedal and no need to submerse the tubing in brake fluid, the container is just to catch the fluid so as not to make a mess. Some people may do more than 1 wheel at a time but I haven't. There are some You Tubes on it out there. I did it on my TJ when I replaced the master.

I also have an Ares power bleeder but the time to get it out and use it, then clean and put away wasn't worth it, plus I don't have the adapter to fit the Jeep master and they were on back order. It's surprising how fast the fluid makes it's way from the master to the wheels when the bleeder is open without any input from the pedal. Of course no ABS pump on mine.
 
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Lol all these posts about "use a friend" date back to before 2020, when it was still possible to find a single human being who wasnt brainwashed with one flavor of mental health condition *or the other*

Im planning to use a suction setup to bleed mine, but Im here researching if the check-valves get in the way of air bubbles coming out cleanly?

Im replacing everything on the calipers, that Im painting, as part of an off vehicle restoration of an axle Im prepping to put in, and Im basically trying to decide if spending $20 on these instead of a few bucks each for basic ones, will *hurt* me?

As long as they dont hurt, I feel having at least a modicum of a chance to bleed my own brakes on the side of a trail at 2am drunk where a line snagged and I was carrying spares, seems logical? Right?

This is a Jeep forum

Yall just call AAA? or do you helivac out, leave your rubicon on the rubicon and then wait for the drunk buddies to fly back out with you by helicopter? (Im kidding I know Jeeple dont ever actually leave the pavement loool)
 
Yall just call AAA? or do you helivac out, leave your rubicon on the rubicon and then wait for the drunk buddies to fly back out with you by helicopter? (Im kidding I know Jeeple dont ever actually leave the pavement loool)

Well I fix mine on the trail of course...and drive it ten hours home.



-Mac