Help me understand the Super 35 kit

Yup but nothing the shop guy has never done before...
The point I was trying to make is the Dana 35 is ready to go, no fab necessary.

Is there something like a super30 for the front?
Yes. There are 30 spline lockers and shafts available for the Dana 30.

Can disk brakes be installed on the 35/s35?
Yes. Multiple kits on the market or source your own from the local Pick-A-Part. Search for ZJ Grand Cherokee brakes.

Also, considering price, s35, new costs about the same as a used Dana 44 with locker...
I'm not sure where you're finding a Dana 44 with an aftermarket full-case locker and alloy shafts for $1,300?
 
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I've been running Superior s35 and 30 splines dana 30 both with arb lockers, the previous owner who had upgraded the difs was running 33s, now I'm running 35s for the last 2 years, and the shafts are working fine. The only thing I think everyone should keep in mind is the pinion gear washer condition, I have broke one of the side gears of my locker due to the lost of material of them. It causes an increase on the distance between the gears overloading the theets, and it made me broke on the trail. I had to buy the regearing kit from England to rebuild the arb locker, because is not easy to find even in the USA. Besides that it is a great set up! Cheers from Brazil!!
 
Reading this thread I'm fairly sure that when I take my TJ in for re-gearing, I want the Super 35 upgrade with a Detroit locker. On the rear.

My front is a Dana 30. Is it recommended or advisable to also upgrade that with a Super 30 and locker?

2005 4.0 6-speed with 33s
 
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A 27 spline 4340 or 4310 shaft upgrade and your choice of locker is all you need up front. My previous TJ broke a front shaft on a very tough trail but it had no more problems, even on that same trail done again, after upgrading to 27 spline 4340 shafts with 35's and f/r lockers.
 
This is a great topic, and well worded question from the OP. I like that it stayed on track, so I feel this is question is relevant, I would like an answer from someone that owned one.

@Jerry Bransford You say your favorite is the Detroit Locker. I have heard they hinder the turning radius and are noisy. This is just rumors that I heard, but not sure how much is true. But to get away from that I have always just run ARB's. They are quiet, and do not hinder turning radius's when unlocked. I know how well they work. In fact I was planning on running front and rear e-lockers because I know they work the same way, but I have never tried them yet, but If what I said is just rumors the Detroit Locker is so much cheaper.

I have some kind of gov lock locker in my Ram and sometimes when I back out of a parking spot and take off forward it sounds like the driveline left the building. I was curious if this was also true with the Detroit locker, or if you can give us some more info on your experiences on the Detroit locker since it is part of a decision of a Super 35 of which I am going to do myself as the OP?

I have been running a "real" Detroit Locker in my D 35 for 15 years. They definitely don't have good manners on the street but off road where they were designed for they really shine. When I installed it I also installed chrome moly shafts and hardened ring and pinion gears. The locker "barks" going around tight corners on dry pavement and may get squrrilly on wet pavement corners.
I think the positives outweigh the negatives and would definitely do it again.
If you want manners but not as much traction go with the Tru Trac I've had them also. They are good.
 
I have been running a "real" Detroit Locker in my D 35 for 15 years. They definitely don't have good manners on the street
Paying a little attention to the throttle makes them fairly well behaved. Neutral throttle through turns allows them to unlock during turns so they don't bang/crow-hop, etc.. I had a Detroit Locker in my previous TJ and no one riding with me on the street ever noticed I had a Detroit Locker installed. My old sales manager from Transamerica (owns 4Wheel Parts, ProComp, etc.) used to think the same thing until we rode around together one day and he almost didn't believe I really had a Detroit Locker in the rear. I could make it behave poorly however by accelerating or decelerating through turns. :)
 
Paying a little attention to the throttle makes them fairly well behaved. Neutral throttle through turns allows them to unlock during turns so they don't bang/crow-hop, etc.. I had a Detroit Locker in my previous TJ and no one riding with me on the street ever noticed I had a Detroit Locker installed. My old sales manager from Transamerica (owns 4Wheel Parts, ProComp, etc.) used to think the same thing until we rode around together one day and he almost didn't believe I really had a Detroit Locker in the rear. I could make it behave poorly however by accelerating or decelerating through turns. :)

Yes I'm usually giving it gas around corners. Not a deal breaker. Like.i said been driving it for 15 years and have had them in other rigs also.
 
Yep exactly. Been driving with them for 45 years
45 years ago they WERE very poorly behaved on the street. That was true until it was redesigned with the better mannered "Softlocker" version that has been sold as the Detroit Locker for at least 25 years now. :)
 
I’m on the same 8.8 rear or Super35, but looks like super35 would be the cheaper route. I’ve been doing a lot of reading and just want to make sure I have the parts list for this.
Super35 kit
Regear set I’m thinking 4.88s
Locker
Regear set for front 4.88
Chromoly axles for front
I have a 4.0 5 speed currently running 31s but want to go to 35s.
 
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I’m on the same 8.8 rear or Super35, but looks like super35 would be the cheaper route. I’ve been doing a lot of reading and just want to make sure I have the parts list for this.
Super35 kit
Regear set I’m thinking 4.88s
Locker (Detroit trutrac)
Regear set for front 4.88
Chromoly axles for front
I have a 4.0 5 speed currently running 31s but want to go to 35s.

For sake of clarity, the Super35 kit will come with the 30 spline shafts and a full-case selectable locker. You choose between the Detroit Locker or the Eaton E-locker. The Detroit Tru-Track is not a locker and not (typically) considered an option in the Super35 realm.

I'm not 100% sure the Tru-Trac is available in a 30-spline option?
 
For sake of clarity, the Super35 kit will come with the 30 spline shafts and a full-case selectable locker. You choose between the Detroit Locker or the Eaton E-locker. The Detroit Tru-Track is not a locker and not (typically) considered an option in the Super35 realm.

I'm not 100% sure the Tru-Trac is available in a 30-spline option?

Correct, so the question air locker vs electric locker?
 
The super 35 replaces the carrier, so it does require a gear setup even if you reuse your gear set. Use the current shim stack as an initial setup, take a pattern, and go from there. You may luck out and get a good pattern to start, but that’s unlikely.
Just noticed this. Only the backlash needs to be checked and possibly adjusted for a Super 35 install. A gear setup is not needed when keeping the same gears for a Super 35 and new carrier installation. The pinion gear is not touched and the same gear is installed onto the new carrier... check/adjust the backlash and you're done.
 
Just noticed this. Only the backlash needs to be checked and possibly adjusted for a Super 35 install. A gear setup is not needed when keeping the same gears for a Super 35 and new carrier installation. The pinion gear is not touched and the same gear is installed onto the new carrier... check/adjust the backlash and you're done.

So being mechanical inclined is this a job one can do. I’ve done most of the work on my Jeep (suspension. Installed a clutch, sye, etc) I did pay a shop to do the regearing as I read was not something to attempt. I purchased the Super 35 and Eaton e-locker and was wondering if it’s a job I can do are do I have to take it to a shop.
 
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So being mechanical inclined is this a job one can do. I’ve done most of the work on my Jeep (suspension. Installed a clutch, sye, etc) I did pay a shop to do the regearing as I read was not something to attempt. I purchased the Super 35 and Eaton e-locker and was wondering if it’s a job I can do are do I have to take it to a shop.

I did it at home, on my back. It's not hard, but it was a bit time consuming as I had to remove and install the carrier probably half a dozen times. If you have installed a clutch and SYE, I think it's in that same realm of difficulty.
 
So being mechanical inclined is this a job one can do. I’ve done most of the work on my Jeep (suspension. Installed a clutch, sye, etc) I did pay a shop to do the regearing as I read was not something to attempt. I purchased the Super 35 and Eaton e-locker and was wondering if it’s a job I can do are do I have to take it to a shop.
I'd say yes you can do it. You do need a dial indicator like in the below photo, it's used to set the backlash. Even Harbor Freight Tools (usually) has them, it needs to have a magnetic base. This one has a magnetic base and should work fine, it's like what I used for my last regearing. https://www.harborfreight.com/1-in-travel-machinists-dial-indicator-63521.html You also need a heavy rubber or leather mallet in addition to the tools mentioned in the instructions of the E-Locker at https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/e...ocker_Installation_Instructions_July_2004.pdf You'll also need to press the new carrier bearings onto the locker which is no big deal. If you don't have a press, not many of us do, nearly any 4x4 or automotive shop will have a press who can press them on for you. I've had to do that before, it's no big deal.

Backlash is nothing more than how far the ring gear can be rotated back & forth which is how much the ring gear teeth can move between the pinion gear teeth. There needs to be enough "slop" between the gears so the gear lube can get in between them. .005-.008 inch is the factory backlash spec but to avoid the need to set the gears up again, you need to measure your present backlash before removing your old Dana 35 carrier and then shim the new locker left or right with shims until it has the same amount of backlash again. That means the R&P gears will continue meshing where they did before the new carrier was installed which is why no gear setup would be required if you get the backlash set the same as before.

However, it's not uncommon for the new locker to produce the same amount of backlash so it's not even assured you'll need to adjust the backlash.

Good luck with it! :)

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.005-.008 inch is the factory backlash spec but to avoid the need to set the gears up again, you need to measure your present backlash before removing your old Dana 35 carrier and then shim the new locker left or right with shims until it has the same amount of backlash again.

Just to clarify for anyone doing this job, the backlash does not have to be reset to the exact tolerance, i.e. if your current set measures at .006 it will be fine +/- .002, but stay within the range. Shoot for the same backlash, but it might not be possible to hit it perfectly.

However, it's not uncommon for the new locker to produce the same amount of backlash so it's not even assured you'll need to adjust the backlash.

My E-locker ring mount surface was only .003 taller than the factory carrier. I pretty much just pulled that from one side and added it to the other. Of course the backlash didn't match perfect the first time, so I second guessed it and tried different stacks until I ultimately wound up back at the original stack. :sneaky:
 
I'd say yes you can do it. You do need a dial indicator like in the below photo, it's used to set the backlash. Even Harbor Freight Tools (usually) has them, it needs to have a magnetic base. You also need a heavy rubber or leather mallet in addition to the tools mentioned in the instructions of the E-Locker at https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/e...ocker_Installation_Instructions_July_2004.pdf You'll also need to press the new carrier bearings onto the locker which is no big deal. If you don't have a press, not many of us do, nearly any 4x4 or automotive shop will have a press who can press them on for you. I've had to do that before, it's no big deal.

Backlash is nothing more than how far the ring gear can be rotated back & forth which is how much the ring gear teeth can move between the pinion gear teeth. There needs to be enough "slop" between the gears so the gear lube can get in between them. .005-.008 inch is the factory backlash spec but to avoid the need to set the gears up again, you need to measure your present backlash before removing your old Dana 35 carrier and then shim the new locker left or right with shims until it has the same amount of backlash again. That means the R&P gears will continue meshing where they did before the new carrier was installed which is why no gear setup would be required if you get the backlash set the same as before.

However, it's not uncommon for the new locker to produce the same amount of backlash so it's not even assured you'll need to adjust the backlash.

Good luck with it! :)

View attachment 495662

Thanks for the great info..