How to align a Savvy mid-arm?

[jjvw]

Another question to the midarm folks, if y’all don’t mind..

Does a brake caliper flip significantly affect the hard line routing? Away from my Jeep right now or I would’ve looked myself.

Since I’m redoing the rear hard lines, wondering whether to go for the flip kit now or not.

The rear caliper flip has no affect on the hardline routing and has nothing to do with the midarm. However, the midarm does directly affect the rear hardline.

 

[B00mb00m]

The rear caliper flip has no affect on the hardline routing and has nothing to do with the midarm. However, the midarm does directly affect the rear hardline.

I waited to do the rear caliper flip until I snapped it off at Reiter.

If your already making new lines I’d suggest flipping

 

[PNW_LJ]

If your already making new lines I’d suggest flipping

Makes sense to do it “while you’re in there”, I was just curious if I’d have to redo the lines if flipping later.

I waited to do the rear caliper flip until I snapped it off at Reiter.

Were you driving by braille that time?

 

[B00mb00m]

Makes sense to do it “while you’re in there”, I was just curious if I’d have to redo the lines if flipping later.


Were you driving by braille that time?

For me on the JK axle I made the line to route on the front side of the tube, but it sounds like you don’t have to reroute much on tj?


How else do you do it? Cut a hole in the floor!?

 

[sunnysideup_lj]

The gunsight method is a very nice way. Following the same idea, so is a laser.

@PNW Lj I used dot and line lasers. Very helpful for centering the axles and making sure the thrust angle is 0*

 

[bluescapegoat]

I've always centered axles left/right across all models of Jeeps by running nuts down onto the rotors to hold them flush then clamping angle iron onto the rotor and measuring from that to the frame on both sides at ride height. Any reason the string gunsight method is the better method?
Then for front/rear I would align the axle bump stop pads at full bump then once I had pinion/caster etc figured out go over everything again corner to corner to ensure square.

Anyway hopping into this conversation to see what you folks who have done the mid-arm and lived with it for a while have ended up doing with the rear sway bar? I understand the stock bar is fine? I have an antirock in the front and OEM bar in the rear. I don't think I'm going to get to outboarding the shocks until next year but I might get to it this fall. Either way, outboarding is definitely going to happen. As of right now I have the front mid-arm all done and I'm starting on the rear.

Just asking to see what's worked for you folks.

 

[mrblaine]

I've always centered axles left/right across all models of Jeeps by running nuts down onto the rotors to hold them flush then clamping angle iron onto the rotor and measuring from that to the frame on both sides at ride height. Any reason the string gunsight method is the better method?

For starters, with that much extension at your straight edges, any out of parallel condition between the axle and the frame is highly exaggerated and then that doubles.

Then for front/rear I would align the axle bump stop pads at full bump then once I had pinion/caster etc figured out go over everything again corner to corner to ensure square.

Anyway hopping into this conversation to see what you folks who have done the mid-arm and lived with it for a while have ended up doing with the rear sway bar? I understand the stock bar is fine? I have an antirock in the front and OEM bar in the rear. I don't think I'm going to get to outboarding the shocks until next year but I might get to it this fall. Either way, outboarding is definitely going to happen. As of right now I have the front mid-arm all done and I'm starting on the rear.

Just asking to see what's worked for you folks.

We've extended the gun sight method and improved it with a laser level.
Hang a plumb bob at the rear of the belly skid. Measure from the inside of the frame to the string and make both sides the same number so it is centered.
Make an easily seen center mark on the front bumper, round crossmember etc.
Set the laser on a floor jack so you can move it up and down easily to get the line viewable past the axle for the vertical and then so you can raise and lower the horizontal to get the axle perfectly level.

We start with the front frame horns first. If your jack won't go high enough, then hook your tape over the same spot on both sides and measure down to the horizontal laser line. Once that number is the same on both sides, then move to the axle. I shoot the top edge of the tube so it splits the laser line in half. When the axle is level, then switch to the vertical line.

Move that back and forth on the jack shooting a line on the axle. Measure from the same places on the axle to the line, when both numbers are same, mark the axle. On the 44 and 30, butting the tape to the inside face of the swaybar link mounts is pretty close.

Now you have a center mark at 3 places with the axle and frame level. Using the vertical line, hit the string at the belly skid with the laser on the jack a couple of feet in front of the rig and turn it back and forth until it lights up the string. See where it hits at the front center mark. If it is off to one side, slide it over until it hits the center mark and the rear string. Now you have a pretty close to exact center down the middle of the vehicle. Look at the center mark on the axle, move the axle until the laser hits it with the axle still level, axle is centered.

Sounds complicated, it really is dead simple.