Cycle the axle and find out. Moving the mounts is just a math problem.
I gained 1.5” of up-travel for $9
- Thread starter Lilnuts
- Start date
Cycle the axle and find out. Moving the mounts is just a math problem.
This is a very interesting hack especially for those of us in the rust belt that had to get mid-evil on their shock bolts and end up with a bunch of holes.
I think I'd still lean towards outboard shock to get more up travel but this is an interesting idea I'll have to keep in mind that doesn't involve notching the frame.
I think I'd still lean towards outboard shock to get more up travel but this is an interesting idea I'll have to keep in mind that doesn't involve notching the frame.
Remember shock travel and suspension travel are not the same. Unless your shocks are mounted on top of the axle and at an angle that mimics the arc of the axle travel
ive been told before if you increase up travel you loose down tralel . Is that true in this case too?
The goal is to balance the range of shock travel with the range of suspension. On my Jeep with those shocks the balance was off, by raising the top shock mount the ranges of movement was/is more in line. Previously the shock travel was the limiting factor of how far the suspension could compress, because the two ranges were not in parallel.
If your shocks have 8-1/2" of travel and your suspension has 8-1/2" of travel if the they are not moving in the same range you may only have 7" of usable travel before the range of one or the other is exceeded. By moving the top mount mine is much closer to working in a balanced range.
Remove your rear springs but not shocks (put the wheels back on) and with a floor jack cycle your axle through it's range and see what is limiting your travel. If nothing else this will allow you to set up your bump stops properly,
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