Install tips for DPG OME Ultimate kit

isaac2098

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
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Dec 28, 2018
Messages
192
Location
Connecticut
I have read almost every forum post about DPG's Ultimate TJ/LJ Kit and seem pretty confident now that I can tackle the install by myself within 1-2 days. Dirk sent some awesome install instructions that are pretty detailed but I was wondering if others had any tips or tricks they recommend to me. I am somewhat mechanically inclined and do a lot of the maintenance on my own vehicles but this will be by far the most intricate install I've had to do. I've seen a lot of people say that spring compressors are a waste of time so what do I need to disconnect/unbolt in order to droop the axle low enough to remove the coils? Other than that question, what do you guys recommend for order of install? The kit is as follows, what should I start with first after I take all 4 tires off and get the Jeep on jack stands?
  • 4-OME Sport Series Shocks
  • 4-OME Coil Springs HD
  • JKS “Quicker” Disconnects
  • JKS 1.25″ Body Lift (Did not opt for this, only running 32's)
  • JKS 1″ Motor Mount Spacers (did not opt)
  • JKS Adj. Track bar (front) JKS Adj. Trackbar (rear)
  • DPG 2″ Extended Bump stops (Front & rear)
  • JKS Adj Rear Swaybar End Links
 
How much suspension lift is it? Disconnect the track bar and sway bar links to droop the axle. I do either the front or rear lift first. I wouldn't remove all four wheels and leave it on jack stands.
 
The track bars can be a little fun, at least for me. Ratchet straps help you line everything back up though. But be careful what you hook them on to.

Personally, I would still try to get and install the MML. If nothing else, it helps with the driveshaft angles. If you do a body lift and a MML, you won't need to change the fan shroud position. If you only do the MML, you will need to raise it about an inch. Do the discos last.

^ When you let your axles droop, just make sure that they are not pulling tight on you soft brake lines.
 
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Lots of rust penetrating oil. When removing the rear shocks take your time with the upper bolts and try not to break one. They can be removed with a Dremel if you break one.
 
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Rust! Start hitting everything with Kroil a good week before you plan to start. Every day. At least once. Have a buddy on hand. Be sure you have all the tools ahead of time. Be prepared for it to take longer than expected. Something will break so have a welder and an oxy torch available. If you get stumped, walk away for a bit. Frustration can make you do something wrong. If you need a BMF you are doing something wrong.
 
The track bars can be a little fun, at least for me. Ratchet straps help you line everything back up though. But be careful what you hook them on to.

Personally, I would still try to get and install the MML. If nothing else, it helps with the driveshaft angles. If you do a body lift and a MML, you won't need to change the fan shroud position. If you only do the MML, you will need to raise it about an inch. Do the discos last.

^ When you let your axles droop, just make sure that they are not pulling tight on you soft brake lines.
Not sure what you mean by ratchet strapping the track bats, a YouTube video seemed like the track bars were just easy swap and replace with adjusting a little.

Could you tell me more about the MML? If I just picked up a pair of brown dog motor mounts from DPG what would that accomplish? Could I do motor mount lift without a body lift or are those two non interchangeable?
 
There is nothing unique about your lift kit. Just look up how-to's on installing shocks, springs and trackbars on a TJ.
 
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There is nothing unique about your lift kit. Just look up how-to's on installing shocks, springs and trackbars on a TJ.

Agreed, I installed this same kit from Dirk and I had no prior experience with doing a job like this. This forum, Dirk and YouTube helped me get it done
 
Not sure what you mean by ratchet strapping the track bats, a YouTube video seemed like the track bars were just easy swap and replace with adjusting a little.

Could you tell me more about the MML? If I just picked up a pair of brown dog motor mounts from DPG what would that accomplish? Could I do motor mount lift without a body lift or are those two non interchangeable?

As stated above, you can do or the other separately. Doing both at the same time saves you from having to re-locate the fan shroud.

The MML will tilt the engine up a tad, helping to offset the change in driveshaft angle that you introduce with the spring lift.
 
I didn't have any trouble installing my track bars. Nothing that pushing one way or the other on the frame didn't fix to line it up. What was meant by a ratchet strap is that you can attach one end to the axle and the other end to the frame and then work the ratchet to pull it into alignment t install the bolts.

I have a little info here from when I installed my lift. It might help you some. I used a spring compressor on the fronts. I didn't know at the time to disconnect all the required stuff to let it droop further.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/mountaineertoms-2006-jeep-wrangler-unlimited.14995/#post-485050
 
When I did my springs and adjustable track bars, the rear ended up off by 1/4". The only way I could get it centered was to wrap a ratchet strap around the rear tire and frame on the passenger side and pull it over. I'd already driven it on the street, bounced around on the bumpers, and pushed the Jeep side to side.

I could have left it but the reason I knew it was off was I could see the difference. Most people wouldn't notice it, but a quick measurement with a long level (board, straight pipe, basically anything that's longer than the tire) on the centerline of the tires to the frame confirmed it and since I noticed it, the difference would bother me. I took 1/8" out of the length of the trackbar and ratcheted over until the hole lined up again. If you have help they might be able to shove the Jeep over, but the straps give you way more control.

The front was centered so I didn't need to do anything to it.
 
Damn, I didn't mean to start a feud.

Like most things with these jeeps, some seem to have problems/issues and others don't. That's my takeaway.
 
The big takeaway is start in and you may or may not run into any issues. If you run into an issue, someone has likely run into it before and figured it out.

I put the A spring on the front driver's side and rear passenger side. B on the other sides. Is that what DPG recommends? I found that posted on the internet, went with it, and it came out level.
 
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from the dpg cheat sheet...

1596465128111.png
 
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