Thanks! I'm new to the forums and it is a funny situation. I actually mixed up the other forum for this one haha, so hey might as well have two build threads out there. Hopefully it saves somebody time and money or gives them some build inspiration.
The LJ build continues to march forward with the only snafu having been self inflicted. The hood that came with the LJ was all dented up so I needed to source a new one. I found the white one in the picture below at an auto recycling yard. Turns out I didn't notice a few imperfections when I picked it up. Blaine got it installed and I stopped over to have a look at things in person. Well it turns out the white hood was pretty straight but it had three areas with dents and dings. One of them was a bit of an oil can effect causing the center to pop in and out a little which means it would be hard to fix. It is hard to see in the picture but once I noticed the imperfections in person I couldn't stop thinking about it. I'm a perfectionist at times and just couldn't live with painting an imperfect hood. Naturally I'm also a moron sometimes and realized I never called the dealership to see if they could get a factory new hood. Turns out the local Jeep dealership was still able to get one and they could have it the next day. Live and learn... so I bought the factory fresh one and will have that installed and painted. The other Green TJ I mentioned at the start of this post has a pretty dented up and paint faded hood, I might end up being able to put the white one on the Green TJ. Duplicolor makes a factory matching spray paint for the Green TJ and I used that paint to do the steel highline fenders and rear corner armor. It has lasted well over almost 10 years so maybe the white one will end up being useful.
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Blaine was also able to get the new cross members installed at the transfer case. I'm going with the off the shelf Savvy engine and belly skid. This Jeep isn't going to see hardcore use on the rocks for at least 5 years which is the period of time I plan to use it as a daily driver. Blaine builds a really nice heavy duty belly skid out of 3/8 aluminum but it wasn't necessary for this build. If I was going to play at the Hammers I would go that way.
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Sure enough one of the most common things to fail on a late model TJ are the catalytic converters. The LJ came with exhaust which was marginal at best and on the way to total failure so it was a good idea to replace it. Especially with the planned forced induction from a supercharger. You can see the two sensors which have been added as well. These are for air-to-fuel ratio and exhaust gas temperature to help tune the fuel map when in boost.
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The automatic transmission is also getting a nice cooler and a temperature gauge to keep an eye on it. The cooler will live in front of the radiator in the grill area.
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The rear axle is coming back together as well and was painted up. It has been geared to 5.38 which works best with the automatic transmission. Blaine has done testing between 5.13 and 5.38 with 35" tires and the automatic transmission. He finds the 5.38s are the best with the automatic but would choose the 5.13 in a stick shift application. Again, another reason to work with somebody who has personally tried every combo of parts under the sun.
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The rear axle also got a nice set of alloy shafts from Revolution.
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Here are a couple shots of the new cable routing and body lift. I really like the way Blaine has designed the body lift. It retains the factory duromter bushings and adds a spacer. On other Jeeps like the Green TJ I've used various body lifts. The ones in the market all change the durometer to a stiffer bushing. When the rig is used hard and the suspension is cycling it tends to put more stress on the body tub. The Green TJ has had the tub bent around enough by the stiffer bushings to cause the doors to need some shims/spacers at the hangers to get it to latch and shut. I'll go with the MrBlaine design for any future builds. Savvy sells them.
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Here is the pile of parts removed from the Jeep and heading to the recycling bin. The joints on the lower control arms are totally shot and have quite a bit of free play in them. Having tried a number of things the only joint I'll use on any Jeep is the Johnny Joint from Currie. Just don't waste your time on marketing hype and experimentation with something otherwise. The JJs have been bullet proof on KOH race trucks so I just don't see the justification to try anything else. If it ain't broke don't fix it!
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