Pulling to right on deceleration

Once it was pointed out that the spacer on the johnny joint for the track bar was in the wrong place, I went ahead and swapped that to the other side of the bracket. Didn't make a difference, but at least it's proper now. :) Gave everything a good greasing too.

Later today I hope to have some time to jack the thing up and start some pulling/yankin on some tires/wheels.

I'll continue to play around with it as I've got time. I have a feeling it's going to lead to a different steering system, as was suggested in the first few posts, but I've got a bit of $$$ saving to do as the knuckles and pitman both appears to have been modified (drilled out) for the 1-ton TRE's.

One last question - for anyone who has the Currie Rockjock track bar (assuming anyone does that's been watching this thread), how stiff should the Johnny joint on the frame side of the track bar be? When I disconnected the track bar at the frame, that joint REALLY didn't want to move or pivot much, if at all. I assumed it would be stiff, but assumed I could still pivot the joint by a heavy hand, if needed, which thing one doesn't want to.
 
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Once it was pointed out that the spacer on the johnny joint for the track bar was in the wrong place, I went ahead and swapped that to the other side of the bracket. Didn't make a difference, but at least it's proper now. :) Gave everything a good greasing too.

Later today I hope to have some time to jack the thing up and start some pulling/yankin on some tires/wheels.

I'll continue to play around with it as I've got time. I have a feeling it's going to lead to a different steering system, as was suggested in the first few posts, but I've got a bit of $$$ saving to do as the knuckles and pitman both appears to have been modified (drilled out) for the 1-ton TRE's.

One last question - for anyone who has the Currie Rockjock track bar (assuming anyone does that's been watching this thread), how stiff should the Johnny joint on the frame side of the track bar be? When I disconnected the track bar at the frame, that joint REALLY didn't want to move or pivot much, if at all. I assumed it would be stiff, but assumed I could still pivot the joint by a heavy hand, if needed, which thing one doesn't want to.

It should be tight. A lot of guys take apart new jj's and grease them. The zerk doesn't always do much. Press and some sockets do the trick
 
I know this thread was getting a little long in the tooth (took a 2 week vacation), but just wanted to post an update. Ordered the ZJ steering kit from crown (it's cheaper than buying piece individually), a stock pitman arm (the stock one was drilled out by PO), and 2 steering knuckles off ebay (stock ones were drilled out) in hopes that bringing things back to stock geometry will help the situation.

I'm waiting on the knuckles to arrive, but everything else is here. Once they arrive I'll post an update just to wrap up the thread.
 
I know this thread was getting a little long in the tooth (took a 2 week vacation), but just wanted to post an update. Ordered the ZJ steering kit from crown (it's cheaper than buying piece individually), a stock pitman arm (the stock one was drilled out by PO), and 2 steering knuckles off ebay (stock ones were drilled out) in hopes that bringing things back to stock geometry will help the situation.

I'm waiting on the knuckles to arrive, but everything else is here. Once they arrive I'll post an update just to wrap up the thread.

I almost did the ZJ steering kit but saved some more money and went with the Currie and am so glad I did. Sounds like you are on your way to getting it back on track though.
 
Alright, everything's installed. I gave it a backyard alignment, and it instantly felt better. The bump-steer is completely gone. I had to replace EVERYTHING. The knuckles, pinion arm - the whole system, as everything had been drilled out for the 1-ton TRE's.

I can see the alure of going with 1-ton steering.... everything about it was extremely heavy duty. The weight of the tie-rod alone was almost as much as the ZJ drag link and tie rod together. But, as Jerry's mentioned, it just doesn't work well with these Jeeps.

The ZJ steering is still a substantial improvement over the stock steering system, and I'm very happy with the results. If I ever get rough enough with it to actually break one of the new components, I'll upgrade to the Currie system, but for the moment I think this is perfect for the cost.

Thanks for all the guidance, and it's yet another confirmation that the crossover steering systems aren't the best solution for our Jeeps.
 
I am having the exact same problem as the OP. I have a 2002 Wrangler with a 4” lift. I did not do any of the work (I bought it yesterday). I was thinking I would just upgrade all of the steering. Tie rod ends and all even a new pitman arm. However, my first Jeep and I honestly don’t know what kit to buy. Help!
 
So, I ended up purchasing the crown automotive ZJ Tie Rod/Drag Link kit. It was CHEAP (less than $150?). My issues were directly related to the PO installing a Crossover/Y-link steering kit. By FAR the hardest part was getting the hubs separated from the knuckles (I've never hit something so hard with a 4lb sledge that I needed to survive).

If your knuckles and pitman arm are stock and haven't been modified, all you'll need is the steering kit. If they've been drilled out/enlarged to accept 1 ton steering tie rod ends, you'll need new knuckles and a new pitman arm, or you might luck out and find tapered inserts which would serve a similar function.

If you need new (used) knuckles, they can be pretty regularly found on ebay for about 65 bucks.

It took a few hours to do the whole job, but it was COMPLETELY worth it as my TJ drives like a road-worthy vehicle now, and not something that WANTS to kill me every time I look left or right.
 
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So, I ended up purchasing the crown automotive ZJ Tie Rod/Drag Link kit. It was CHEAP (less than $150?). My issues were directly related to the PO installing a Crossover/Y-link steering kit. By FAR the hardest part was getting the hubs separated from the knuckles (I've never hit something so hard with a 4lb sledge that I needed to survive).

If your knuckles and pitman arm are stock and haven't been modified, all you'll need is the steering kit. If they've been drilled out/enlarged to accept 1 ton steering tie rod ends, you'll need new knuckles and a new pitman arm, or you might luck out and find tapered inserts which would serve a similar function.

If you need new (used) knuckles, they can be pretty regularly found on ebay for about 65 bucks.

It took a few hours to do the whole job, but it was COMPLETELY worth it as my TJ drives like a road-worthy vehicle now, and not something that WANTS to kill me every time I look left or right.

There are a lot of companies selling garbage that try to reinvent tj systems that already worked. With poor results
 
I am having the exact same problem as the OP. I have a 2002 Wrangler with a 4” lift. I did not do any of the work (I bought it yesterday). I was thinking I would just upgrade all of the steering. Tie rod ends and all even a new pitman arm. However, my first Jeep and I honestly don’t know what kit to buy. Help!

Do a lot of research here and get a sense of what works well before you buy anything. Start a thread about your jeep,post lots of suspension and steering pics.

Decide how you'll use it.now and in the future and we can help
 
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2002 Wrangler Sport with 4.0 and manual shift.

I don’t rock crawl or mud at the moment and don’t intend to. I’ll be driving it when I can’t ride my motorcycle. I do have a small boat that I’ll pull.

I crawled underneath and noticed that the steering is def upgraded, but I do not know what brand. I did notice that the steering gear box is leaking so I ordered a seal kit. I’ll post what pictures I have.

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2002 Wrangler Sport with 4.0 and manual shift.

I don’t rock crawl or mud at the moment and don’t intend to. I’ll be driving it when I can’t ride my motorcycle. I do have a small boat that I’ll pull.

I crawled underneath and noticed that the steering is def upgraded, but I do not know what brand. I did notice that the steering gear box is leaking so I ordered a seal kit. I’ll post what pictures I have.

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JKS upgraded track bar is ok.

The steering doesn’t look off, the drivers side looks normal.

Need a picture of the passenger and how the drag link goes into the knuckle, and a picture from the front to give a view of the entire wheel to wheel.