Re-gear and locker advice

Nuggsfan

Nuggsfan

TJ Enthusiast
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Apr 11, 2017
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Denver, CO, United States
So I have come to a point now that it is definitely time to regear. I am running 35s on stock drivetrain currently. I have a Dana 30/44 mix on my 05 TJ. I am going to go to 4.88 as that is as tall as I can go on the Dana 30. I am also putting chromoly shafts up front.

Starting off, I wheel, but don't really "crawl" I like to explore, and have been in huge rock piles before. While fun, I still enjoy the tight narrow dirt roads. (Probably more than fully "flexing" out) I just want to be capable enough to get home. So far, I have been doing this on open differentials. I have never used a locker, and I don't believe I have limited slip either.

My real question is if I should put in a locker now while re gearing, or would it be wiser to spend that $ elsewhere. I have been pondering this for a while, and can't decide the right mix either. Front selectable/ open rear , rear selectable/open front, rear auto/ open front, or simply rear limited slip... that being said, I can afford the re gear now, and add lockers later still, but figured if I am doing it now, could save a little down the road.

In reality I could afford to do a auto locker in the rear now while I am re gearing. Or I might be able to do a OX locker in front right now.

Any advise either way, or any other ideas?

I am doing this in a shop as I have never done axles and don't think a DD is a good place to learn!

Thanks!
~T


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My personal preference when it comes to lockers is an auto in the rear. I like 100% traction all the time and it makes winter driving a breeze since i barely need 4wd to get up my driveway.
 
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I'm like you, I enjoy the tight trails more than I enjoy flexing out on rocks, that's just not my thing.

I have 4.88 gears in my Rubicon on 33" tires, and I seldom need to use the lockers for the stuff I do. I do occasionally need them when it's very muddy out, but it's not that often.

If it was me, I would put the locker in now while you're re-gearing. It will be cheaper than doing it separately, and you'll kill two birds with one stone.

Lockers come down to preference really. I really like my Rubicon factory lockers, but if I needed new ones I would go with something fully selectable such as an Eaton E-Locker or ARB air lockers. That way I can engage them when I want, or disengage them when I want.

I know a lot of guys run auto lockers as @Ahoragi mentioned, and that's also a very good option as well. Again, it will just come down to preference.
 
I would do it all at once just to save a few dollars.

I think that locker selection is more of a personal choice, but I decided on selectables front and rear.
 
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Nuggsfan said:
Just found out my neighbor is putting 60s under his Ruby. I'm going to try and buy his front 44 with the Locker in it. It's a stock 44, but better than my 30. It has already been regeared to 4.88.


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Can't argue with that!
 
Rear auto
Front open for now.
Lunchbox later if it makes sense
 
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Well if all goes well tomorrow, I will have a Rubi 44 for the front with the stock Rubi locker and 4.88. Then I can re gear the back and do the limited slip. Probably the best option for what I can afford right now.

Anyone know what I will need to make the locker work in the front?


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Nuggsfan said:
Just found out my neighbor is putting 60s under his Ruby. I'm going to try and buy his front 44 with the Locker in it. It's a stock 44, but better than my 30. It has already been regeared to 4.88.


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Why not go for swapping both the front and rear to the Rubi axles? You can then sale your axles. Lot's of people looking for a TJ 44.

The wiring for the locker pumps is straight forward. I have mine in the cab on the passenger side floorboard. Mounted just high enough to be out of the way of feet.
 
JP98 said:
Why not go for swapping both the front and rear to the Rubi axles? You can then sale your axles. Lot's of people looking for a TJ 44.

The wiring for the locker pumps is straight forward. I have mine in the cab on the passenger side floorboard. Mounted just high enough to be out of the way of feet.
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The rear rubi axle was sold already. So getting the front for a good deal and re gearing the rear was the best option I think I have currently. Is the rubicon stock locker electric or air?


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Nuggsfan said:
The rear rubi axle was sold already. So getting the front for a good deal and re gearing the rear was the best option I think I have currently. Is the rubicon stock locker electric or air?


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It is low pressure 4 psi air. You will need to get one of the pumps off the plate from your neighbor.
 
Yes it is actually from an LJ but same thing I believe. I have onboard air already with a Vair continuous use compressor


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Nuggsfan said:
Yes it is actually from an LJ but same thing I believe. I have onboard air already with a Vair continuous use compressor


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You do not want to put more than 4 psi on the Rubi locker. It will blow the diaphragm. The easiest way is to just use the Rubi pump that comes with it.
 
To make the pump work properly you only have to wire in a 12v switch. You bring 12v to the switch then take that to the red wire on the pump. The black should be your negative. The other wires are send signal back to the stock locker engaged light on the Rubi dash. The pumps have an internal pressure switch which will cause the pump to stop when it is holding the 4psi. If the pressure drops due to a leak it will automatically kick back on and bring it back to 4 psi.
 
Well, after all that, the 44 is out. I went to go get it today and it had been modified for coilovers and the spring perches were cut off. I have 0 ability or experience in fab/welding so I opted out.

Back to the drawing board I guess... [emoji848]


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As mentioned, 5.13 is as deep as you can go. And you need 5.13 with 35's and the auto. You really need deeper but cannot with that 30.

Alloy shafts are a good to do as is going to the 5-760x u joint.

Lockers, I prefer the Detroit locker. Always there, no air or electric to worry about, will unlock when turning unlike and selectable (ARB, Eaton). In the front a lunchbox locker works great. I run an Aussie currently, and have used a No Slip previously. Both are great with the NS being quieter.
Yes, do them at the same time since you will have significant enough disassembly later on.

A limited slip is not for you if big rocks and "max flexing" is your thing. You need lockers for that kind of play.
 
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